Bag #22: Canvas handbag

I decided to make a small summer handbag now the weather is warming up.  I had a fabric in mind but then I saw this sewing-themed cotton canvas at my local market and fell in love with it. It is sturdy without being too heavy - even my sewing machine liked it.  I added a D ring tab and an internal zip pocket as those are the little extras that make the bag just right for my needs.  The finished bag measures approximately 11"/28cm wide at the top, 5"/12.5cm deep at the base and 8"/20cm high excluding the handles (13"/33cm including the handles). 

I used various different types of interfacing from my stash.  When I'm making a bag, I just get my interfacings out and try them with the fabric to see the effect.  I liked the ultra firm interfacing which created the bag's structure without the bulk you get from foam, fleece or wadding. I used an interfacing that was marginally lighter around the zip because that area has to be a bit more flexible. Around the internal pocket I used a considerably lighter interfacing and this was an iron-on one so that it stayed in place while I made the pocket.

You could just about squeeze this bag out of 3 fat quarters (one for the patterned fabric, one for the plain fabric and one for the lining) or 12"/30cm strips of fabric so it wouldn't be expensive to make, although the handles cost more than the rest of the bag put together!    I used cotton canvas for the exterior and quilting cotton for the lining.

My machine was set at its normal stitch length (2.5) and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using wooden handles

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9" x 11½" (23cm x 29cm) Bag sides (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

4½" x 6½" (11.5cm x 16.5cm) Bag bottom (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

3" x 11½" (7.5cm x 29cm) Zip  panels (cut 2 plain canvas, 2 heavy interfacing)

4" x 5" (10cm x 13cm) Handle tabs (cut 4 plain canvas)

3" x 2" (7.5cm x 5cm)  D ring tab (cut 1 plain canvas)

8" x 5" (20cm x 13cm) Inside pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 light/medium iron on interfacing)

8" x 3" (20cm x 7.5cm) Bag lining light/medium iron-on interfacing to reinforce pocket opening 

12"/30cm  zip  for bag closure

8"(20cm)  zip for internal pocket

¾"/20mm D ring

Step 2: Making the D ring tab

 

Fold the tab fabric in half so that the shorter sides meet.  Press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre so that it looks like bias binding (see photo above), then fold along the centre.  Press.   Top stitch along each long edge.  Slip the tab through the D ring and fold the tab over.  Secure with a few stitches at the raw edges.

Step 3: Assembling the outer bag

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of each patterned bag side. Place these bag sides right sides together and sew the side seams, inserting the D ring tab approximately 2" (5 cm) from the top. (I forgot to add the D ring tab and had to go back later and add it!)

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the patterned bag bottom.  Pin the bag bottom carefully to the bag sides, right sides together.  Sew.

   

Step 4: Making the internal pocket

 

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each pocket piece.  Also attach the smaller piece of interfacing to the wrong side of one of the lining bag sides - position it centrally so that the top edge of the interfacing is approximately 2"/5cm from the top edge of the bag.

Mark a rectangle 3/8" x 6" (1cm x 15cm) on one of the pocket interfacings, starting 1 ½"/4cm from the top of the pocket. Also mark a line along the centre - this will be your cutting line.

 

Place the pocket pieces on the lining, right sides together, so that the top of the pocket lines up with the top edge of the interfacing on the lining. Pin. Sew around the rectangle.   Cut along the central line and into the corners, making sure not to cut the stitches.  Post the pocket through the slit and press it flat.  Pin the zip through all the layers so that the right side is facing out through the bag side lining.  Sew all round the zip. 

Pin the other pocket piece, which will form the back of the pocket, to the pocket piece to which you have already attached the zip, right sides together.  Sew all round making sure to sew only though the pocket and not through the bag side lining. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag lining

Place both side bag linings, right sides together, and sew along each of the side seams. Press open.

Sew the lining bottom to the lining sides.

Step 6: Attaching the zip to the zip panels

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip panels.  There is no lining for the zip panels as the underside is scarcely visible when the bag is assembled.

Sew the zip to one side of the zip panel, right sides together.  

Sew the other zip panel to the other side of the zip.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional finish.

Fold the zip panels so that they are facing each other, right sides together and sew the raw edges at each end together.

Step 7: Making the handle tabs

Make the handle tabs in the same way that you made the D ring tab.  

Once sewn, the handle tabs will measure 5" x 1" (12.5cm x 2.5cm).  Fold them in half and sew a 2"/5cm line of stitches down the centre of the tab starting at the raw edges.  This will hold them firmly together when the bag is assembled.

(I didn't need to insert the wooden handles at this stage because they were easy to slip on and off, but if you were using a differently shaped handle e.g. a circle, you would need to attach it to the tabs before sewing up the ends.)

Step 8: Assembling the bag

Turn the bag so that the right side is facing inwards. Place the zip panels inside the bag with the right sides facing downwards.  Pin the zip panels all the way round the top of the bag so that the raw edges match.  Make sure that the zip is open, otherwise you will not be able to turn the bag through when it is finished.

Position the handle tabs where you want them to go.  Mine had the nearest tab edge about 2¾"/7cm from the side seam.  The handles will need to go inside the bag between the zip panel and the bag side with the raw edges of the tabs sticking out through the top seam. 

Sew all round the top.  I found it easier to sew the bag sides to the zip panel and then use an unpicker to make gaps in the stitching for the handle tabs which I then sewed in place.

Place the bag lining over the outside (wrong side) of the bag.  The right side of the lining will face out.  Pin, then sew all round the top seam, following the existing stitch line where you attached the zip panels.

Turn the bag right side out through the zip.

Sew a ling of top stitching about ¼"/6mm from the top through all layers (outer bag, lining and zip panel).  Sew another line of top stitching about 1"/2.5cm below the first line, through all layers.  This will hold the zip panel tight so that it forms the shape at the top of the bag.

Insert the wooden handles into the tabs and away you go!  I absolutely love this little bag and can't wait to use it.  

In this project I learnt:

• These wooden handles turned out to be really easy to use because I was able to slip them out and put them back in.  It took me a while to work out that this was possible.  I had already struggled to sew all round the top edge and the handles made it really difficult (although not impossible) to manipulate the fabric.  As soon as I realised I could take the handles out, the task became much quicker and easier (and I could have avoided the wobbly top edge where I tried to sew round the wooden handles!).  This wouldn't be possible with many wooden handles, but is something to bear in mind when choosing which handles to buy.  I could make several bags with tabs for these handles and then swap them over when I want to use a different bag - that would save me a fortune in bag handles!

• I was only able to get an N3 zip in a co-ordinating colour but the bag really needs a much sturdier zip.  I could have got what I wanted on the internet but I was too impatient to wait.  It's probably a decision I shall live to regret but I had a great time making this bag so it was worth it.  The internal pocket was a last minute decision.  I only had one co-ordinating zip, so I used that on the outside and used a plain white one inside.  Pink would have looked better, but at least I can easily find the pocket whereas a pink zip would have been almost invisible inside the bag.