Bag #17 : Laptop bag

I made this laptop sleeve for my Dad's recent birthday.  He had just bought his first laptop and needed a case to keep it safe.  I wanted a fabric which would be quite masculine but also very traditional, although not necessarily one that would commonly be used for a laptop bag.  I found this wool fabric in amongst the tweeds and tartans at my local fabric store.  It's soft and has muted colours - just what I was looking for.  

I used the same fabric on the outside and for the lining which made the bag more expensive to make but it looked more professional and it gave me lots of opportunities to match up the checks. When making this style of bag where you join the lining to the outer fabric and then make the bag shape, the lining always seems to be slightly visible (at least it is when I do it), so that's another reason for using the same fabric inside and out.  A plainer fabric such as a tweed would have been easier to use because there would have been no need for matching the design.  However, I wanted a challenge!

The foam gives just the right amount of padding to protect the laptop and the quilting reduces the bulk a little, stabilising the foam and helping the wallet to keep its shape.

This is essentially made in the style of a document wallet.  I made this all in one piece which not only made it easier to make but is an adaptable style which could be minimised to make a clutch bag.  This style wouldn't be suitable for a directional fabric because part of the pattern would be the wrong way up. Thankfully, that wasn't a problem here.

It would have been easy to add a pocket internally or externally but I didn't think it was necessary here.

As usual, I used ¼” seams throughout.  When I was sewing through the foam, I have learnt that a longer stitch length is needed for that level of thickness, so I increased my stitch length to 3 for initially sewing the pieces together, quilting and top stitching and 3.5 for side seams.  I recommend experimenting with your machine to find the smallest stitch length at which the machine can sew through all the layers.

Skills used in this project:

• Quilting
• Matching checks
• Fitting
• Keeping it simple

Step 1: Cutting out

Measure the dimensions of the laptop. These assume that the laptop is approximately 1” deep. 

Cut 2 fabric and 1 bag foam all the same size. 

Width = width across laptop + 2”  

Length = top to bottom of lid x2 + 6 ½”

I made this for a laptop which measured 15” x 10” and was 1” deep.

I cut out fabric 17” x 26½”

If using a fabric which needs matching (e.g. the checks in my fabric), carefully cut out both pieces so that the pattern will match when joined right side to right side.  The measurements might need a slight adjustment to enable matching.

You will also need

13” Velcro

To create the shape in both pieces of fabric and the foam, at one end I drew round a saucer to create the rounded shape of the flap. The image below shows the bag after the 2 pieces of fabric have been sewn together.  The flap end is at the bottom of the picture.

At the other end, I started ½” in from the side edge and made the rounded corners by drawing round part of a tape measure for the cut out which was 1” deep and then cut straight across the fabric between them.

Step 2: Joining the fabrics

Place the inner and outer fabric, right sides together.  Place the foam against the wrong side of the outer fabric.  Pin and sew.

If relevant, match the pattern now as any mismatch will be visible at the end.

I used a longer stitch than normal as the foam is quite thick (3 – 3.5). Trim the foam as close to the seam line as you can without cutting the stitches.  This will make it easier to sew the bag together later.  Leave a gap of about 5” along one of the long sides.  Turn right sides out and hand sew the gap closed.

Top stitch across the cut out end (not the flap end) to hold the seam in place and create a professional finish.

Step 3: Quilting the bag

Pin around the side seams to ensure that the stitch line remains sharp at the edge of the fabric and any matching pattern stays firmly matching.

You need to decide whether you are quilting to add subtle texture (use a matching thread which will be invisible) or quilting to create a visual feature (use a contrasting thread which will be visible).

Using a walking foot if you have one, sew horizontal and vertical lines approximately 2 ½” apart. I followed the lines woven into the pattern of the fabric. Start by sewing the central vertical and horizontals and then work outwards.

Step 4: Attaching the Velcro

Pin a strip of the velco centrally to one side of the flap, ¾” from the top edge. Sew all round. This Velcro will be inside the flap when the bag is assembled but the stitches will be visible on the front.  If you don’t want them to show, consider adding embellishments now to cover it e.g. a strip of ribbon, an embroidered panel, appliqué, etc.  It wasn’t necessary with the fabric I chose as the stitches were barely visible because they blended in with the quilting.

Pin the other strip of Velcro at the other end on the opposite side of the fabric.  When the bag is made up, this will be on the outside. This needs to be ¾” from the cut out edge.  You should try folding the bag into its final shape at this stage to make any small adjustments to where the velcro should go to ensure that any fabric pattern is matched.

Step 5: Assembling the bag

Fold the end with cut out up by the height of the laptop (in this case it was 10”), lining sides together.  The Velcro should be on the outside.  Pin both sides. At this stage, make sure that you match the pattern at the sides and top so that the opening matches the pattern of the inner fabric.  

Sew through all layers close to the edge.  I used an even longer stitch length (3.5 -4) and a jeans needle to go through the 2 layers of foam. Sew along one side seam.  When you reach the end, reduce the stitch length (I reduced mine to 3) and top stitch around the flap.  When you get to the start of the other side seam, increase the stitch length and sew down to the bottom of the bag.

Well done! Your laptop will now be safe and beautifully protected.   

In this project I learnt:

• Quilting is best done with a walking foot if working in straight lines.  I love quilting but I tend to do free motion 'stiples' and rarely work in straight lines.  Deep down I knew that the walking foot should be used when sewing through several layers of fabric because it ensures that they are evenly fed through the machine.  I forgot and used my normal foot for the first horizontal and vertical line.  I found that when I got to the end of the line, one of the fabrics was about ¼" longer than the other when they had started out the same size!  I realised my mistake quite early on but by then the damage was done and the checks didn't quite match up on the inside and outside.  A walking foot is quite expensive but worth it.  Luckily mine came with the machine.

• I usually avoid stripes and checks because any error really shows up on them.  If you buy cheap fabric, the weave or pattern will often be wonky and won't match up however hard you try.  I bought a good quality fabric so any errors were all mine.  It was an easy check to match up, but I had to keep looking to make sure that the checks were matching up at all stages - cutting out, sewing the fabrics together, sewing the velcro so that the checks would match up, matching the checks on the side seams as I sewed, matching the opening with the lining. I succeeded in matching checks on the outer fabric where it folded over, but not so well when matching the inner and outer fabrics (see above). However, I was really pleased with the result, even though it wasn't perfect and it has given me the confidence to try a greater variety of fabrics in future. Not bad for a first attempt at matching!

• I hardly ever make anything which has to end up a particular size.  I like the freedom of making a shape and seeing how it turns out.  Obviously, I always have a rough idea of the size but if I haven't measured carefully enough, it doesn't matter.  Here, it had to fit.  I measured the laptop when I last visited my Dad but I didn't have it in front of me to check that it was all going to plan. It fitted perfectly - snug without being tight - a perfect fit. It shows I can make bags to size if needed.

• One of the comments I got early on when I started this bag project (52 bags in a year) was that the bags were all very complicated.  I deliberately tried to make this simple (and if it hadn't been for the checks, it would have been super easy). I think this has been the most uncomplicated bag to date.  This project has helped me to concentrate on the basics and work on getting them right and I am definitely getting better at doing that.

Bag #16: Fabric Painted Bags

I really wanted to try out fabric paints on a bag to make it totally unique.  I used them once before, about twenty-five years ago, when I decorated a pair of canvas shoes with fabric pens.  I loved them so much, I wore them until they fell apart.

This time I wanted to try liquid paint but I have absolutely no skill with a paintbrush. I have used a 'You can folk it' series 1 kit on wooden hearts and really liked the effect which was achieved by using dots.  You can find out more about it here: http://www.folkit.co/

I wondered if it would work on fabric and it did.  You can see the effect with the hearts and flowers bag below.

Of course, rather than using someone else's designs, I wanted to create my own designs, keeping them simple in line with my limited ability.

I like long handles on a bag because I prefer to carry it over my shoulder, but if you prefer to carry it in your hands, you can easily make the handles any length you want - that's the joy of making your own bag.

When making the bag, I used my machine's usual stitch length of 2.5 for the seams and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.

Skills used in this project:

• Using fabric paint

• French seams

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following from medium to heavyweight calico:

20” x 15” (2 for the bag)

30” x 4” (2  for the handles)

Fabric paint

Round ended tool to make dots (I used an embossing tool)

Step 2: Using fabric paint

     

Wash and dry the fabric before using paint on it so that any residues are removed which may affect the longevity of the paint.

Draw chosen image onto the fabric.  You can print an image from your computer or draw once yourself.  I drew mine on A4 paper in pencil, went over them in black pen and then placed them under one of the 20" x 15" bag pieces and traced the image onto the bag using light pencil marks which were then painted over.

When you are happy with your image, you will be ready to start painting.  Place a protective layer under the fabric to prevent damage from seepage.  Pour small quantities of the paint onto a plastic tray and use the embossing tool like a paint brush to pick up the paint and make dots on the fabric.  It is a good idea to use a scrap of fabric to practise before decorating the bag.

Where I mixed 2 colours, I put a dot of each colour side by side and swirled them around so that the colours blended. For the dot roses I mixed white and pink paints. For the peacock, I mixed shades of blue and green.

To form the small heart shapes on the heart and peackock, I made 2 dots next to each other and dragged the paint from each of them to form a tail.

I followed the instructions for the fabric paints by leaving the fabric flat for 4 hours. I then made the bag but waited 72 hours before washing to ensure that the paint became permanent.  You should check the instructions for the paint brand you are using and follow them accordingly.

Step 3: Making the bag

I used a French seam to sew the back and front of the bag together because it adds strength and looks more ‘finished’.

Put the two bag pieces together WRONG sides together and sew a narrow hem – about ¼” around the sides and bottom (but not the top) and then trim it back nearer to the line of sewing so that no whiskers of fabric show through the final seam.  Press.

Turn the bag right sides in and press again (making sure that the corners are fully turned out) before sewing the side and bottom seams again using a slightly wider seam (⅜”) which encases the original seam, hiding the raw edges. Press.

Step 4: Making the handles

  

Fold the handles in half along the entire length to find the middle. Fold the sides of the fabric in towards the centre and press them so that the fabric looks like bias binding. 

To finish the handles fold them in half along the original fold line and sew down both long sides of each handle to give a professional finish. 

  

Step 5: Finishing the top of the bag and attaching the handles

With the wrong sides out, fold the top of the bag over to the outside to form a ½” hem and sew all round the hem   Press.

Turn the hem over again by another inch and pin in place to hold.  Pin the handles to the top of the bag by placing them under the hem and pushing them up so that the end of the handle is placed against the fold of the hem.  They will be upside down at this stage and hang down towards the bottom of the bag.  Measure 3½ “ from the edge of the bag – that is where the outside edge of the handle will go and do the same for the other end of the handle by measuring from the other edge, making sure that the handle isn’t twisted. Sew around the hem, sewing over the handles as you go. Press.  

Flip the handles up so that they are facing the right way and sew a cross to hold each handle in place. Top stitch around the top of the bag, sewing over the handles to create a crisp line.

Wash the bag, inside out, to set the fabric paint.

Well done! Your bag is complete and your are now an artist.  Shopping will be such a joy now with your unique bag. 

In this project I learnt:

• Using fabric paint was straightforward.  I followed the instructions on the bottles and everything went according to plan. I splashed a bit of green paint on the peacock bag and the instructions said that I should be able to remove it immediately with soap and water but I found that it was impossible to completely remove it.  I know that I need to be much more careful next time. I liked being able to experiment and alter the design as I played with the paints.  The heart and cat both stayed pretty much as planned but the peacock looked a bit bare, so I kept adding more colour until I was happy with the way it looked.  Dotting is such an easy technique - no artistic skill required.  This would be great to do with children, perhaps for a bag to keep their toys in.

• I used French seams for the first time in bag 1.  This is essentially the same basic bag. This time, I didn't even need to think about how to do them because I understand how they go together.  I love the professional finish they give.

• I used 3 different weights of calico - a different one for each bag.  The heaviest weight - the heart bag was lovely to work with and beautifully soft but a nightmare to iron.  It will be really strong and last forever.  The other 2 were made from different types of medium weight calico.  They were easy to work with and there were no ironing problems but they won't be as strong as the heart bag. I guess it depends what you want out of your bag and what you will be using it form.  I was going to use interfacing in the handles but they really didn't need it, so in the end I left it out.

Bag #15 : Personalised Bag

My aunt is incredibly generous and I wanted to make this bag to thank her for some lovely gifts.  She is a keen paper crafter who regularly attends classes and workshops, so I thought this bag would be the ideal size to take her pens, scissors, etc. to classes.

She loves animals so I chose an easy cat appliqué which complemented the cat fabric on the other side.  I also added her name in free motion embroidery to personalise it and make it totally unique.  I like the fact that the techniques used in this bag could be used on almost any bag to make it stand out.

I used a ¼” seam allowance throughout and my normal stitch length for the seams (2.5) and increased it (to 3) for the top stitching.  I prefer to use iron-on interfacing but I didn’t have any in my stash so I used a medium sew-in interfacing. 

Skills used in this project:

• Machine appliqué
• Learning a new machine stitch
• Free motion embroidery

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

12” x 8” patterned cotton fabric (I used Lucky Neco by Moda) (cut 1) and medium interfacing (cut 1)

7 ¾” x 8” cream cotton fabric (cut 1) and medium interfacing (cut 1)

4 ¾” x 8” red cotton fabric (I used red) and medium interfacing (cut 1)

12” x 8” lining fabric (cut  2)

Small amount of cream fabric and heat n bond (or bondaweb) for the appliqué

2" x 3" Zip tabs from the plain coloured fabric (cut 2)

2" x 4" D ring tabs from the plain coloured fabric (cut 1)

12" zip

1" D ring

Step 2: Free motion embroidery

On the right side of the cream cotton fabric, write your chosen words using a suitable marker such as an air drying, wash off or friction pen (test the fabric first to make sure that it can be removed).

I wanted to embroider the words ‘Dorothy’s Bag’ onto the side of the bag to show that it was made especially for my aunt Dorothy  I chose a font and size I like on the computer and printed it, then traced it onto the cream fabric using an air drying pen.  I found that the best way of tracing was to hold the printout and fabric against a window.  This made it really easy to see through the fabric to the writing.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the cream fabric and either hand or machine embroider over your chosen words in a thread colour which complements your other fabrics (I did free motion embroidery after a few practises on some spare fabric).

Step 3: Appliqué

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of your red cotton fabric

Draw your chosen shape onto the matt side of the heat n bond and cut the heat n bond slightly larger than this shape. It would be fine to cut a rectangle from the heat n bond with the shape inside it.

Place the shiny side of the heat n bond against the wrong side of the cream fabric and iron to attach. 

Now cut accurately around the shape, through the cream cotton fabric and the heat n bond.

Decide where you want to position your appliqué shape on the red cotton fabric, remove the paper backing from the heat n bond, place the sticky side of the appliqué shape against the right side of the red fabric and iron it in place.

Stitch around the shape by hand or machine.  I used my machine’s blanket stitch after experimenting on a spare piece of fabric to find the stitch size that I was happiest with. I chose to use a threat that would blend in but you might prefer to go for a thread which would really stand out. I hand embroidered the cat’s features using 2 strands of embroidery floss.

Step 4: Join the decorated side panels

Sew the cream and red panels you have just embroidered and appliquéd, right sides together, along the 8” side and press the seam open.  Trim the edges to ensure that this piece now measures 12" x 8".

 

Step 5: Make the zip tabs

  

Fold the zip tabs in half so that the 2” ends meet and press.  Turn the raw edges parallel to the fold under by ¼” and press.  Fold them over each end of the zip and sew across the zip to attach them.  Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 6: Insert the zip

Pin and sew one side of the bag to one side of the zip to make a zip sandwich.  The right side of the decorated side panel will go on the right side of the zip and the lining will be attached to the wrong side of the zip, right side of the fabric facing the zip.

   

Do the same for the other lining piece and the Lucky Neco fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip.


Step 7: Make and attach the D ring tab


Fold the fabric in half lengthways and press.  Then fold the sides in so that the raw edges meet the fold and it looks like bias binding.  Press. Fold the tab in half so that the short ends meet, insert the D ring tab and sew it to one edge of the bag, raw edges together so that the D ring is facing into the bag.  It doesn’t matter which side or whether you attach it to the front or the back.

Step 8: Assemble the bag

Cut out a 1 ½” square from each of the 4 bottom corners of the outer fabric and the lining.

Partly open the zip so that you can turn the bag through to the right side after sewing.

Pin the bag so that the right sides of the outer fabric meet and the right sides of the lining meet.  Sew along the side and bottom seams, leaving at gap of about 4” along the bottom seam of the lining for turning.  Leave the corner cut outs. Press the seams open.

With the right sides still together, flatten the corners so that each side seam meets the bottom seam to form a straight line. Do this for the outer fabric and lining corners.  Sew. 

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining.

   

Your bag is finished and you now have somewhere to keep your small craft items, pens, etc.

No one is going to pick up your bag by mistake because it is completely unique. Of course, they will pick it up to admire it!

   

In this project I learnt:

• Machine appliqué is really easy if you take it slowly.  I had never used the blanket stitch on my sewing machine and wanted to try it out.  I had a practice fiddling with the stitch length and width so that I was happy with the stitch.  Then I practised sewing round a heart using scraps of fabric.  I had read somewhere that a heart is a good shape to practise on because it has curves and a point.  As long as I went slowly the stitch looked good. It made me want to try some of the other stitches on my machine as I have only used the straight stitch so far.

• I wanted to appliqué a cat shape onto the bag as the patterned fabric has a cat theme.  I wasn’t confident with my drawing (I’m not much of an artist!), so I had several attempts drawing a cat shape on printer paper.  When I was eventually satisfied with my design, I cut it out and drew round it onto the heat n bond. I used cream thread – the same colour as the cat – so that it wouldn’t show if it went wrong, but I needn’t have worried because I was pleased with the end result.  Next time, I’m going to try to be bolder and use a bright contrasting thread as I build up my confidence with different stitches.

• I have done a little bit of free motion embroidery on a quilt.  It was just random patterns in the same colour thread as the quilt, so it didn’t really show that much.  As this was writing and a contrasting thread, it needed to be more accurate. I practised on some scrap fabric first of all and once I’d got the hang of it, I moved on to the bag. I pinned the interfacing to the cream fabric and machine embroidered through both layers as the interfacing stabilises the stitching and prevents the fabric from puckering.  I put the embroidery foot on the machine, lowered the feed dogs and followed the words I had traced, going round each letter several times.  Some of the letters looked a bit ropey the first time I went round them, but most of them looked better after several rounds.  

• I was quite slow and found that the air dry pen which I usually love had begun to fade before I had finished sewing – something to bear in mind for future projects. Next time, I’m going to use a friction pen which disappears when ironed.  That way it will be visible for as long as it’s needed.  I’ll have to use sew-in interfacing because attaching iron-on interfacing would cause the writing to disappear!

Your suggestions for a patchwork bag

This week I have been doing English paper piecing (patchwork) for a future bag.  These tiny 1" hexies will make a fabulous bag but it has to be small or I'll still be making it next year!  What type of bag should I make?  Any suggestions?  Please get in touch with your ideas.  Just click on the comments box at the bottom of the page - you can do this anonymously - no need to sign in.  All ideas welcome.

Bag #14: Small tote bag

I was shopping at a local garden centre with a friend when she spotted a small PVC tote bag which was a handy size for a sandwich, a drink and a book.  Of course, my response was to offer to make one.  The fabric I used was a remnant from my stash, so it cost very little and I had so much fun making this bag. 

I love working with PVC.  I think it is my favourite fabric but it can be tricky.  I think that’s what I like about it – the fact that it will be a challenge but will look good even if it goes wrong.

My lining was the same on both sides which always makes life easier.

I used ¼" seams throughout and my usual stitch length (2.5) for seams but 3.5 for top stitching.  I didn’t use a special foot but I did use a leather needle.  I couldn’t use pins because they would leave permanent marks, but my Clover wonder clips held everything in place.

Skills used in this project:

• Creating structure using stitches
• Working with PVC

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces

13 ½” x 12 ¼” PVC bag body (cut 2)

13 ½” x 2” PVC for inside bag (cut 2)

4” x 15” PVC handles (cut 2)

13” x 11 ¼” bag lining (cut 2)

7” x 8” lining for pocket (cut 2)

7” x 8” iron-on light interfacing for pocket (cut 2)

3” x 8” iron-on light interfacing for lining around zip (cut 1)

7” zip (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

Step 2: Making the PVC bag body

Cut  a 1 ¼” square out of the 2 bottom corners for both pieces of the PVC bag body (the bottom will be one of the longer sides).  If using a directional fabric, make sure the fabric will be the right way up before cutting these out.

Right sides together, sew both side seams.

Wrong sides together, Measure 1 ½” from the side seam and fold as shown in the photo.  Top stitch close to the edge down this fold.  This will create the bag’s shape. Do this at each side for both the front and back of the bag to create 4 of these ‘fake seams’.

Right sides together, sew the bottom seam.

  

Right sides still together, flatten the corner squares cut outs and sew along the straight line this creates just inside the fake seams.

Turn right side out.

Step 3: Making the pocket

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of both pocket linings.  Attach the 3” strip of interfacing to the wrong side of one of the bag lining pieces.  This should be centred with one long side of the interfacing against the edge of one long side of the bag lining.

Pin one pocket piece and the lining to which you have just added the interfacing, right sides together, with the long side of the pocket along the top edge of the lining, to match the position of the interfacing on the bag lining.   

    

Draw a ½” x 6” rectangle along the centre of the interfacing which is attached to the bag lining.  Sew around this rectangle through all the layers that you have just pinned together..  

Cut a slit in this rectangle (as shown in the photo) making sure not to cut the stitches. Push the pocket through this ‘letterbox’, shape in the lining so that it sits flat and press. You will now have a neat opening to attach the zip.

Pin the zip to the pocket so that the right side shows through the aperture in the bag lining.

Sew all round.

Pin the remaining pocket piece to this one, right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom, keeping the bag lining out of the way as you do not want to sew through this. 

Sew along the top of the pocket and the bag lining to hold the pocket firmly in place.

Step 4: Making the bag lining

Cut 1 ¼” square out of the 2 bottom corners for both lining pieces.

Sew each PVC inner strip to the top of a lining piece, right sides together, making sure that the fabric will be the right way up if it has a directional pattern (the lining will be below the PVC strip when the bag is assembled).

Pin the bag lining pieces together, right sides together and sew down the two side seams.  Sew along the bottom seam, leaving a gap of about 5” for turning. Press the lining seams open being careful not to iron the PVC (which will melt if ironed!).  Sew the bottom corners of the lining as you did for the PVC part of the bag in step 2.

Step 5: Making the handles

Fold the handles in half lengthways to find the centre.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half and top stitch close to the edge along each long side of the handle.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Each end of the handles is 3” from the side seam (they don't look it in the photo because the side seam curves round!).  The handles need to hang down.  Ensure that they are not twisted and sew them in place. 

Design tip: I matched the raw edges of the handles to the edge of the bag, but if you wanted to use the bag for heavier items, I would place the handles so that they are sticking out about ½” above the raw edge of the bag, then after finishing the bag, do a second row of top stitching around the top of the bag about ¼" below the previous row to give them added strength. 

With the right side of the PVC bag facing outwards, place the lining over the PVC with the handles tucked inside.  The PVC and lining will be right sides together (the fake seams should face towards the side seams.  Sew all round the top.  Turn through the gap at the bottom of the lining.  Sew up the gap.

Top stitch around the top edge of the bag.

Now you have the perfect excuse to go shopping – to try out your new bag!  It’s wipe clean so you won’t need to worry about getting it dirty.

In this project I learnt:

• I have never used fake seams before but I certainly will in future.  They are a simple way to create structure to a bag while minimising the number of fabric pieces to be cut out. I made sure that I measured their position carefully and clipped them in place before sewing.  The only potential problem with PVC was that it means sewing on the right side of the PVC.  This can cause problems because the PVC can stick to the base of the sewing machine.  I have been advised to get a roller or teflon foot for sewing PVC on the right side but I haven't got round to it yet.  In any event, I didn't have a problem.  I find that my machine copes well if I use a longer stitch (although the machine struggles to keep the stitches at a consistent length when sewing on the shiny/right side of PVC).  I can't believe how easy this was and I shall definitely use this technique in future.

• An alternative way of making the fake seams would have been to cut both the PVC and lining to the same width and then assemble the bag without the fake seams, adding them at the end through all layers of the PVC and lining.  This gives a pleasing finish as the lining is held tightly in place, but I wasn't sure whether I would catch the lining all the way down the fake seams and if I didn't, it might look amateurish.  I might try this method at some time in the future, and if I do, I'll let you know how I get on.  Or if you have tried it, let me know your thoughts.

• PVC is always a challenge (see above), but the more I use it, the easier it becomes. when sewing on the right side, using a longer stitch length and being more accepting of inconsistent stitch length are the two most important things I have learnt.  No one else has even noticed the stitching - they just look at the appearance of the bag. I've definitely learnt to be less of a perfectionist with PVC.