About this blog

I make bags and post tutorials on how to make them. I'll tell you what went well and warn you about any disasters.

Sunday 31 July 2016

Bag #30: Lingerie Wash Bag


I’ve been thinking about laundry bags this week.  I was having a bit of a tidy up and found a bag of UFOs (unfinished objects).  In amongst them were some net curtains.  Years ago (I dread to think how long they’ve been waiting) I bought some net curtains.  They were the wrong length but a bargain price.  I altered them and this was what was left.  I hate throwing anything out if I can find a use for it and the time had come.  I decided to make a bag to put my delicate underwear in when it goes in the washing machine.  You can buy these bags everywhere but the quality is usually very poor and they don’t last very long. I decided to make a posh version.  This bag has my own appliqué design and French seams. It’s also just the right size for my needs.

Obviously, I didn’t want to ruin my delicate items by using a fabric where the colour runs in the wash, so I washed my fabric first to make sure that it was colour fast.

Instead of needle turn appliqué where the fabric shape is sewn on by hand, this could easily be machine appliquéd to save time and give a different look.  To machine appliqué, there is no need for freezer paper.  The quickest way is to draw your design on heat n bond, iron it to the wrong side of your fabric, cut round the design (no need to leave any extra for a hem), peel off the backing paper and stick it in place on the plain background fabric.  Then sew round the edges using your chosen stitch – fancy or plain. It takes no time at all, so this is ideal if time is short or for anyone who isn’t enamoured of hand sewing.

The finished size is 13½”/34 cm long and 8½“/21.5 cm wide. However, you can easily make your bag as long and wide as you want because the technique will be the same.  Just remember to cut your net fabric twice as long as you want the bag to be and allow for a generous seam allowance because French seams take more fabric than a normal seam.
I used a stitch length of 3 throughout which is slightly longer than my normal stitch length and seemed to work better on the net.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.


Skills used in this project:
  • Needle turn appliqué
  • French seam
  • Working with net
  • Using stitch n tear

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

28” x 10” (71 cm x 25 cm) bag body (cut 1 net curtain fabric)

2” x 3” (5 cm x 7.5 cm) zip tabs (cut 2 plain fabric, 2 lightweight iron on interfacing)

6” x 5” (15 cm x 12.5 cm) appliqué background (cut 1 plain fabric)

4½” x 3½” (11.5 cm x 9 cm) appliqué image (cut 1 patterned fabric, 1 stitch n tear, 1 freezer paper )

10”/25 cm zip (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)


Step 2: Making the appliqué panel


 Fold the edges of the plain appliqué background under (towards the wrong side) by ¼”/6mm and press.



Pin the stitch n tear to the back.




Draw your chosen design onto freezer paper (I drew knickers and bra).  Cut it out.  Iron the freezer paper onto the right side of the patterned fabric, shiny side of freezer paper to right side of fabric. Cut around the freezer paper allowing at least an extra ⅛”/3 mm of fabric all the way round for turning under.  Leave the freezer paper on the fabric.


Pin the patterned fabric/freezer paper to the right side of the plain appliqué background in its final position. Sew all round, turning the edges under as you sew and using the freezer paper as a guide.  Clip any corners/curves where necessary to achieve the desired shape.


When all parts of the appliqué have been sewn in place, gently tear the stitch n tear from the back of the appliqué pattern. Press.


Pin the appliqué panel to the net, approx 3”/7.5 cm from one of the short ends of the net fabric.  Topstitch all round the panel to attach it to the net. You could use a decorative stitch to do this.


Step 3: Making the zip tabs

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the plain fabric. 


Fold in half and then fold the short edges under and press.

Fold a zip tab around each end of the zip with the zip end pushed firmly against the fold.  


Topstitch across the open end of the tab to attach both sides to the zip.


Trim the sides of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.


Step 4: Inserting the zip


Pin one short side of the net to one edge of the zip, right sides together. The right side of the net will be the side with the appliqué panel on and the right side of the zip will have the slider.  Sew.


Fold the net back so that the other short side can be pinned, then sewn to the other edge of the zip, again right sides should be together. Make sure that the fabric is not twisted.


Topstitch along both edges of the zip for a professional finish.


Step 5: Sewing the side seams

With the right side facing out, decide where you want the zip to be.  Mine was approximately 2¾”/7 cm from the top.



Pin the sides together and sew down each side, close to the edge.  Trim so that the raw edges are no more than ⅛”/3 mm from the stitching.



To create the French seam, turn the bag so that the wrong side is facing out.  Sew down each side seam again but with a slightly wider seam allowance so that the raw edges are encased within the new seam.


Step 6: Finishing off



Topstitch along the seam edge of each zip tab to hold them firmly in place and reduce their bulk.



Your delicates will now be much safer in the washing machine and laundry day will be a pleasure because you’ll get to use your beautiful and unique bag.


In this project I learnt:

  • I have done needle turn appliqué which is sewn by hand before.  In fact, I have been to a workshop on it, but I found it really daunting and didn’t try it again until bag #1.  With a simple shape, it was really easy as long as I chose fabric that didn’t fray too easily and left sufficient fabric to turn under.  I learnt from that first bag and wanted to try it again.  This time I chose a more complicated shape but choose the fabric carefully.  It was really easy, although I need more practise to make my stitches smaller and less visible.  I now feel confident enough to try it on a bigger and more intricate project such as a quilt.
  • When I started this bag, I hadn’t planned to have French seams.  Instead, I intended to bind the raw edges. It was only as I put the zip in that I had a light bulb moment and realised that French seams would be easier and neater, although I they made the bag narrower than originally planned as they are wider than normal seams. They were really easy to do as I’ve used them in some of my shopping bags.  The result is a very professional finish with minimum effort.
  • I’m not sure what the ‘rules’ are for sewing net.  I used my normal needle for woven fabrics (should it have been a ball point needle?) and it worked really well – no snagging at all. I found that a slightly longer stitch length gave a neater result than my normal stitch length.  I always practise on a scrap of fabric before I sew a bag and find out what works best with it.  This has served me well during this project.  I’m lucky that I have a sewing machine that can sew almost any fabric and most weights/thicknesses.  Having the right tools for the job makes it so much easier.
  • I used stitch n tear for the first time when making this bag.  I wanted the appliqué design to sit neatly on the background but without the weight of an interfacing.  This was really easy to use and achieved exactly what I wanted.  I just pinned it to the wrong side of the background fabric, sewed my appliqué shapes to the front through the background fabric and stitch n tear, then gently tore the stitch n tear away, leaving the design intact.  It couldn’t have been easier, although if I had torn it too roughly it had the potential to damage the stitching.




Sunday 24 July 2016

Bag #29: Half Moon Bag


When I was a student I had a half moon bag which was my favourite bag.  I loved it.  It was just big enough for my purse and camera.  I didn’t need anything else.  This was before the days of mobile phones.  Long before!  The zip on my current handbag broke this week and I have been thinking about what type of bag would be good for summer without being too ‘beachy’ but still casual.  I decided to go for a denim half moon bag, although it’s bigger than the one I had in my student days because I have more to carry around.

I used the same fabrics that I used in last week’s zip-up bag, but with the addition of a contrast fabric for the flap and strap.  I don’t usually make 2 bags of the same fabric unless they are meant to co-ordinate, but I like these so why not. These are all cottons - denim for the outer fabric, paisley for the lining and birds for the contrast. I used bag foam which gives the bag a defined shape but it’s a lot for a machine to sew through.  However, you could use fleece or wadding which would be easier to sew through and create a softer, slouchier bag.

The finished size is 8” (20 cm) across, 7” (17.5 cm) high and 2” (5 cm) deep.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3.5 for top stitching.  I used ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

For this bag, the measurements are approximate because the size of the plate used to create the half moon shape will affect the length of the side panel.  If in doubt, cut slightly longer and trim to size later on.  Also the length of the strap depends on your personal preference.  I like a long strap to wear across the body but I this may be too long for some people. It’s easy to adjust the length – I’ll tell you how and when to do this.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.  


Skills used in this project:
  • Using a range of stabilisers to create shape
  • Using hardware
 
Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

NB: if you have a directional print, the 9”/23 cm side goes across the bag and the shorter side goes up.

9” x 7” (23 x 18 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 lining, 2 foam/wadding)

19” x 2½” (48 cm x 6.5 cm) Side Panel (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding) – see step 1 before cutting this out

9” x 11” (23 cm x 27.5 cm) Internal pocket/divider (cut 1 lining, 1 medium weight interfacing)

9” x 8” (23 cm x 20 cm) Flap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding)

4” x 53” (10 cm x 134 cm) Strap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 medium weight interfacing) - 2 shorter fabrics can be joined - see step 6

1 Magnetic fastener (mine was ¾”/18 mm)

2 rivets (mine were approx 5/16” / 8mm with a short shank) (optional)

1”/2.5 cm length of sew in Velcro (optional)


Step 2: Making the half moon shape

The bag body and flap pieces need to be shaped.  I used a large tea plate to shape the 2 bottom corners to give the bag its half moon shape.  Measure the length of the curved side and adjust the side panel length accordingly as plate sizes vary.  If in doubt, make it slightly longer and cut to size (as I did).


Step 3: Making the outer bag

Attach the foam or wadding to the wrong side of the outer fabric bag body and side panels (by pinning, ironing or gluing depending on the materials used).  I used sew in bag foam with spray on fabric adhesive.



Pin the outer fabric side panel to the curved side of one of the outer fabric bag body pieces, right sides together.  Using lots of pins ensures that the curve is sewn accurately.  I always start by finding the centre of the seam and pin from there in each direction.



Sew the other outer fabric bag body to the opposite edge of the side panel, right sides together. 

Trim the foam close to the stitch line.  I found it was easiest just to cut round the curve with pinking shears.



Top stitch along the edge of both curved seams (back and front), through the bag body and side panel.  This will help the bag to keep its shape. I pinned around the seam to try to keep the line even but it was still a bit wobbly - I'm not very good at sewing curves!


Step 4: Attaching the magnetic fastener

I added the fastener after joining the lining to the
 contrast fabric, but it is easier to do it before.

The thinner side of the magnetic fastener needs to be attached to the lining of the flap. I placed it centrally with the middle of the fastener about 1¼”/3 cm  from the bottom edge of the curve.  I used a small off cut of bag foam  on the wrong side of the lining to give it extra stability.   To attach the fastener, make 2 holes in the lining and foam, push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the lining, through the foam and the washer and open them outwards to secure.



Attach the thicker side of the fastener to the right side of one of the bag body pieces.  I positioned mine about 3”/ 7.5 cm from the bottom of the curve which gives a very loose fit to the flap; 2”/ 5 cm would be a tighter fit.  


Step 5: Making the flap

Attach the foam/wadding to the wrong side of the contrast flap fabric.

Sew the lining flap to the contrast flap, right sides together, along the curved edge. Trim foam close to the stitch line.  In step 4, you can see where I have cut around the foam/fabric using pinking shears.

Turn right sides out.  Press.  



Top stitch all round the curve. 

The flap lining is facing out, away from the bag.

Sew the flap to the back of the bag (the side of the bag which doesn’t have the magnetic fastener) along the straight edge with right sides together.


Step 6: Making the strap





If 2 shorter lengths are being used, join them as you would join binding.  Overlap the fabrics, right sides together, as shown in the photo.  Sew across diagonally.  Trim the seam and press open. I did this and the join doesn't show at all.


Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the strap fabric.  





Fold in half lengthways and press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre fold so that it looks like bias binding .  You will end up with a 1”/2.5 cm strap.  Top stitch along both long sides to give a professional finish.


Step 7: Attaching the strap


Sew one end to the right side of the side panel with the raw edge of the strap about 1”/ 2.5cm  above the raw edge of the bag.

Try the strap for size thinking about how you plan to wear it.  I like mine as a cross body bag, but you may prefer a shorter strap and wear it as a shoulder bag.  Adjust the size of the strap now by reducing the length if necessary.


Sew the other end of the strap to the other side of the bag, making sure that the strap is not twisted.


Step 8: Making the internal pocket/divider




Make the internal pocket or divider by attaching the interfacing to the wrong side of pocket (lining) fabric.  Fold it in half so that it is the same shape as the bag but a little shorter.  Top stitch along the fold.

Pin the pocket to the right side of one of the lining bag body pieces and sew around the curved edge. 

If you leave the pocket as it is, it will form a divider or compartment within the bag.  I wanted a pocket, so I attached velcro centrally to the top of the pocket and the lining.

Here the velcro is shown in the finished bag.

 Step 9: Making the bag lining



Attach the lining bag body pieces to the side panel, in the same way that you did for the outer bag in step 3, leaving a 4”/ 10 cm gap for turning through at the end.


Step 10: Assembling the bag



Now you need to join the bag lining and exterior.  Place the lining over the outer bag.  
The outer bag should have its right side facing out.  The lining should be right side facing in.  In other words, they are placed right sides together, matching the side seams. The flap needs to be between the outer bag and lining.  Sew all round the top of the bag. 

Turn through the gap in the lining.

Top stitch all around the top edge, including where the flap joins the bag and lining.


Step 11: Attaching the rivets

 

The end of the strap needs to be secured within the side panel to give it extra strength. This is why we left that extra bit sticking up when we joined it to the bag. It can be done by sewing an ‘X’ or box shape through the outer fabric, strap and lining or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because it makes the bag look more ‘bought’.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers (outer fabric, foam, strap, lining).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through from the lining side of the hole to the outer fabric.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.




In this project I learnt:
  • I am getting much better at understanding which stabiliser to use for the effects I want to achieve.  I wanted the bag to have a very clear shape which can be achieved with bag foam.  If I had used wadding/fleece the bag would have been less structured, although still lovely.  I used interfacing for the pocket and strap to make them firmer but without the bulk.  Now that I’ve discovered spray on fabric adhesive, I don’t worry about whether I’m using fusible foam / interfacing.  I just spray it on and it becomes fusible. It has saved me time and money because I can just use whatever is in my stash.
  • A bag with hardware looks bought rather than homemade, but it still scares me.  I worry that I’ll make a mistake and ruin the bag just as it’s nearly finished.  Magnetic fasteners are easy to apply as long as you make small holes.  I find that turning the ‘legs’ outwards rather than inwards makes them firmer.  Rivets still scare me.  I use them so rarely that I forget what to do with them. It took longer to make the hole than to fit the rivet.  They went in really smoothly and now the handle will be extra strong.  I really wanted to fit a tuck lock to close this bag, but I wasn’t brave enough.
  • I’m quite conservative in my choice of fabrics.  I like a pretty outer fabric and a plain lining.  Here I’ve used a patterned lining and a contrast fabric on the outside.  For me, that’s daring!  I want to experiment more in the future by using several fabrics in one bag.  Other people do it and it looks great, but I’m never sure which fabrics to put together. 


Saturday 23 July 2016

Daisy Bag Update

Apologies if you tried to access the Daisy Bag Tutorial and saw a completely different bag.  This has now been rectified and the Daisy Bag is back up.  Thanks to everyone who let me know about this problem.  Where would I be without you?

Sunday 17 July 2016

Bag #28: Daisy Bag



This week, I wanted to make a small bag for craft tools but it could just as easily be used as a pencil case (for small pencils!) or make up bag. It could easily be adapted for longer items e.g. knitting needles or paint brushes by changing the length but keeping the other dimensions the same.  Small bags have so many uses.

I have previously tried painting fabric using dots, but this time I used a paintbrush.  It was nothing like painting on a smooth surface but still relatively straightforward.  I chose a simple design from Folk It (their designs always look amazing and are easily achievable with a minimum of effort).  I used Deco Art So Soft fabric paint and practised on a scrap of the fabric before painting on the bag. 

I wanted the ends to be a triangular shape but without the effort of adding a triangular panel.  The shape comes from the inserts cut out of the bottom corners of the pattern. This method creates a less rigid shape which goes well with the denim look fabric I chose. 

Usually, when I design a pattern, I start off with the measurements I want for the finished bag and try to achieve them.  With this bag, I drew the pattern without measuring any of the dimensions and then, when I was happy with it, took the measurements.

The zip tabs give a professional finish to the bag and link the outer and lining fabrics.  The side tab is also made from the lining fabric. This tab can be used to clip tools or a charm to the bag or it could be used to clip the bag to a belt.  I like to include side tabs because they give more options for the ways in which a bag can be used.  I might clip it to my belt at craft fairs so that I have essential tools within my grasp at all times.

I used a fat quarter of the lining fabric and the outer fabric and had lots left.  Both of the fabrics I used were cotton.  I like the fact that this bag looks like denim without the effort of sewing a heavyweight fabric.

The finished size is approximately 7” (17.8cm) long x 3” (7.5 cm) high x 3” (7.5cm) wide.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching.  I used ¼”/ 6mm seams (slightly larger for the lining so that it fitted snugly).

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other. 

Skills used in this project:
  • Fabric painting
  • Creating shape


Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

10¼” x 5⅛” (26 cm x 13 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer, 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing and cut to size using the PDF pattern)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

2” x 2” (5 cm x 5 cm) Side tab (cut 1 lining, 1 medium iron-on interfacing)

8”/20 cm Zip cut to size (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

1” / 25 mm split ring


Step 2: Painting the fabric


The fabric needs to be pre-washed (without using a softener such as Comfort as this prevents the paint from adhering to the fabric).  Fabrics vary, so try the paints you intend to use on a scrap of the outer fabric to practise your technique.  On paper I would have used one brush stroke for each petal, but the paint sank into the fabric and I needed lots of smaller brush strokes.  I used 2 coats of the white paint to make it stand out.  I painted the fabric before making the bag as it was easier to paint onto a flat surface.  Of course, then I had to wait for the paint to dry before making the bag.  Overnight was sufficient drying time.  Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to make the paint permanent.  I always leave 72 hours and then wash the fabric at a low temperature.  The paint is beautifully soft after washing.


Step 3: Making and attaching the zip tabs

 Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tabs.


Fold the zip tabs in half so that the 2”/5 cm ends meet and press.  Turn the raw edges parallel to the fold under by ¼”/6 mm and press. Fold them over each end of the zip, with the zip end up against the fold, and sew across the zip to attach them.  Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip. 





Step 4: Inserting the zip

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer bag body fabric.

Place one outer bag body and one lining fabric, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot.



Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.


Step 5: Making and attaching the split ring tab





Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the fabric in half and press.  Then fold the raw edges at the sides in by ¼”/ 6 mm.  Top stitch down both sides. Press.

Fold the tab in half so that the short ends meet, insert the split ring and sew it to one edge of the bag (it doesn’t matter which side or whether you attach it to the front or the back).    


Step 6: Assembling the bag

Partly open the zip so that you can turn the bag through to the right side after sewing.


Pin the bag so that the right sides of the outer fabric meet and the right sides of the lining meet.  Sew along the side and bottom seams, leaving at gap of about 4” / 10 cm along the bottom seam of the lining for turning and also leaving the corner cut outs. Make the seams around the lining slightly wider so that the lining fits neatly inside the bag.  Press the seams open.



With the right sides still together, flatten the corners so that each side seam meets the bottom seam to form a straight line. Do this for the outer fabric and lining corners.  Sew. 

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine.

 


Fill the bag and start using it straight away.


In this project I learnt:

  • Fabric painting, even for someone who can’t paint, is easy if you choose a simple design and practise it first.  I have learnt that painting on fabric is not the same as painting on paper.  Actually, fabric is more forgiving because mistakes don’t show up as much; the paint is quickly disappears into the fabric so minor errors can be painted over.  This daisy looks better on fabric than when I paint it on cards.
  • If I wanted a sharp shape, I would definitely use panels at the ends, but this denim lends itself to a more ‘slouchy’ shape. A few months ago, I wouldn’t have known the difference or been able to design both types.  I’m definitely learning so much in this project and loving every minute of it.