Bag #19: Quick and Easy Make-Up Bag

This is a really easy small bag that looks amazing.  I made the one with the mannequin fabric and I've been using it to keep my mini patchwork essentials - fabric, card, scissors, thread and completed patchwork hexagons. It would also work as a lovely make up bag. I fell in love with the button fabric and made another bag using that but it looks a bit plain.  I think it needs some embellishments.  Any suggestions?  Then I saw the giraffe fabric and couldn't resist making another bag, this time for my mother, who loves giraffes.  She hasn't seen it yet, but I guess she will now.

Using 2 sliders on the zip makes it look really professional and it means that you don't have to open the zip all the way to get something out. 

To make this bag, you would only need a small amount of fabric.  I used fat quarters and used less than ⅓  of the fabric. 

The finished size of the bag is approximately 6½" x 4½".

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 throughout but increased to 3 for the topstitching.

Skills used in this project:

• Using a zip with 2 sliders
• Inserting a zip on a curve
• Keeping it simple

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

6” x 8” outer fabric (cut 2)

6” x 8” lining (cut 2)

6” x 8” medium weight interfacing - iron-on or sew-in (cut 2)

For all of these pieces, form the shape by cutting out a 1” square from each bottom corner (the bottom will be one of the longer sides) and shaping the top by drawing round a tea plate on each upper corner.  Fold in half to make sure that it is symmetrical.  Alternatively get the PDF pattern here. 

You will also need:

2“ x 6” plain co-ordinating fabric for the zip tabs (cut 2)

2” x 6” lightweight iron-on interfacing (cut 2)

12” zip with 2 sliders (I used an N3 continuous zip on a roll and cut it to size)

Step 2: Making the zip tabs

I find it easier to make the zip tabs a bit wider and longer than is needed and trim to size.  In the photo, I made the zip tabs much too long but I have amended the pattern accordingly.

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side to both zip tab fabric pieces.

Fold in half so that the short edges meet, ensuring that the wrong sides are together.

Fold each short edge under by ¼" and press.

Before attaching the zip tabs, make sure the sliders are both attached so that they face in different directions, both towards the centre, so that the opening will be in the middle of the bag and not at each end!

Place at tab at each end of the zip so that they overlap the zip by about ½".  Sew across to secure. 

Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 3: Inserting the zip

Pin/Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric.

I usually sew the outer and lining fabrics to the zip in one go, but I have found that with curves, I get a smoother finish if I attach them separately.

Pin and sew one curved side of the outer fabric to one side of the zip. The right side of the fabric should be facing the zip sliders.The zip/tabs should reach the start of the corner cut out or be slightly longer.  Mine were far too long here so I had to trim them later. It is best to find the centre of the bag and zip by folding each in half and start by pinning at the centre, moving outwards.  This will ensure that the tabs are the same length at each end.

Pin and sew the lining to the same side of the zip but on the underside to make a zip sandwich. 

Do the same for the other lining and outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Trim the fabric around the curve so that it sits neatly along the zip.

Top stitch along each side of the zip to hold all the layers firmly in place and create a professional finish.

Step 4: Sewing the bottom seam

Make sure the zip is open.

Match the bottom edge of the outer fabrics and sew, right sides together.

Do the same for the lining, but leave a gap in the centre of the bottom seam of about 4" so that you can turn the bag through. It is a good idea to make the bottom lining seam about ⅛" bigger than the outer fabric seam (⅜" instead of ¼") as the lining fits more snuggly inside if it is slightly smaller.

Step 5: Making the corners

Finger press the bottom seams open. 

Flatten each of the corner cut outs so that they form a straight line, right sides still together. 

Do the same for the lining.

Pin them together and sew across both at the same time.

Do the same for the other corner.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Turn through the gap in the lining and sew it up either by hand or machine.

Your cute little bag is now complete.  Fill it with make up or other goodies - it is such a versatile size that you will want one for every occasion.

In this project I learnt:

• When using a zip with 2 sliders, it is really important to check that they are both facing towards the centre before you start.  It sounds obvious, but I didn't when I made the first bag and had to stop half way through and take the zip apart to correct it.  I won't make that mistake again!

• I use continuous zips.  I attached all the sliders to the zip but found that it caused some damage to the zip by misshaping it (just visible on the button bag).  I may have just been unlucky or attached them wrongly, but in future I shall store the zip and sliders separately and attach the sliders only when I am ready to use them.

• Inserting a zip on a curve is harder than using a straight line so it is worth sewing the outer fabric first and then the lining.  I'm still not very good at top stitching around a curve but I'm getting better.

• Sewing both the lining and outer fabric corners at the same time made it very easy.  There were no seam lines to match up for a change as there was no side seam to match with the bottom seam.  This method also holds the lining firmly and neatly in place so that it looks super smart inside as well as outside.

• This is one of my favourite makes so far this year.  It is simple, pretty and versatile.  It could be made larger to hold toiletries or how about a matching make up bag and toiletry bag?  I might give that a go when I next have some spare time.