About this blog

I make bags and post tutorials on how to make them. I'll tell you what went well and warn you about any disasters.

Sunday 28 August 2016

Bag #34: Craft Pouch


                



This week’s bag is a versatile pouch for craft tools. I made it for my 7"/18 cm knitting needles, but you could make it slightly shorter for crochet hooks, longer for full size knitting needles or any size to suit your pens, pencils, brushes, etc. if you are an artist. It has space for my knitting needles and a pen/pencil, a small pocket (not sure what for yet!) and a zip pocket for scissors, knitters’ sewing needle, row counter, etc.  The only thing there isn’t room for is yarn.

I made this bag in these colours because I wanted to take part in gentleman crafter’s August 2016 colour challenge.  I’m not very good at combining colours and this forced me to use a selection that I wouldn’t normally have put together.

I used 3 fat quarters to make the patchwork version of the bag and just 1 to make the all-in-one-fabric version. 

The finished size is 8” x 3½” (20 cm x 9 cm) and it is about ½” (1.2 cm) deep.

Difficulty level: Intermediate, even without the patchwork, because you will be working with lots of layers/pockets.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching and used ¼”/6 mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.


Skills used in this project:
  • Combining colours
  • Working with multiple layers on a small project

Step 1: Cutting out


If using directional fabrics, the width is 4”/10 cm and the longer measurement is for the length.
To create the rounded corners at the bottom, draw round a coin.
All pieces can be cut from one fabric or using 3 fabrics (as I did).

Cut out the following:



8” x 4” (20 cm x 10 cm) Pocket (cut 1 fabric A - brown) – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

14” x 4” (35.5 cm x 10 cm) Front (cut 1 fabric B - green) – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

17” x 4” (43 cm x 10 cm) Front Flap (cut 1 fabric C - yellow, 1 medium weight interfacing) - if you are not making the patchwork version, cut another fabric piece for the Back Flap which includes the back – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

7½” x 4” (19 cm x 10 cm) Back (cut 1 fabric A - brown) – cut round bottom corners only.

1”/2.5 cm strips of all 3 fabrics to create a 9½” x 4” (24 cm x 10 cm) Back Flap

6” x 3¼” (15 cm x 8 cm) Lining for zip pocket (cut 2 fabric B - green)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm)  Zip tabs (cut 2 fabric B - green)

6”/15 cm Zip (I cut my green zip down to 5½”/14 cm)

4½” x 4” (11.5 cm x 10 cm) Flap Loop (cut 1 fabric C - yellow)


Step 2: Preparing the pocket and front



Fold the pocket in half, wrong sides together so that the shorter raw edges meet. Press. Top stitch just below the fold to create a firm edge.

Do the same for the front fabric.


Step 3: Making the flap loop

Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, so that the slightly longer edges meet.  Press.  

 


Fold the longer edges in towards the fold so that it looks like bias binding.  Press.  Fold in half along the existing centre fold so that you have a 1” strip.  Press.  Top stitch along both long edges.




Step 4: Assembling the bag front

Decide how you want to divide up the pockets.  I chose to have 4 needle slots and didn’t divide up the small pocket at all. Don’t forget that the outer slots will end up being narrower because of the seam allowance.  I measured 1¼” from each outside edge and drew a vertical line down the front and then drew another line half way between those 2 lines.  They ended up looking fairly equal. I used a Frixion pen and then ironed the fabric after it was sewn to make the pen marks disappear.

Pin the front to the bottom of the inside flap and sew down the vertical lines you have just drawn.

Pin the pocket to the bottom of the inside flap.  If, for example, you want to divide this in half, now is the time to do it.  Sew over the vertical line down the centre of the front. I didn’t have any dividing stitches in my pocket, so I didn’t bother with this.



Pin one side of the flap loop on top of the pocket so that the one raw edge of the loop matches the raw edges at the sides of the other fabric.  Do this on the side where the zip will go.  Leave the other side loose as that doesn’t get sewn until the final stage. 

Sew very close to the edge down the sides of the front, pocket and one side of the loop to hold them together.  These stitches need to be within the seam allowance as you don’t want to see them when the pouch is finished. 


Step 5: Making the patchwork front (optional)



Sew the 1” strips of fabric together using ¼”/6 mm seam allowance.  Press each seam open as you go.  I used 17 strips, the widest being about 5½”/14 cm inches.



Cut the strips at a 45º angle, either by eye or by using a quilter’s ruler.  It doesn’t matter if they aren’t exact.  You want to end up with a 9½” x 4” (24 cm x 10 cm)  piece of patchwork fabric.

Round off the corners at one end of the patchwork.



Sew the other end to the back (the edge with the square corners).  Press.  Attach the interfacing.


Step 6: Making the zip tabs



Fold the zip tabs in half, wrong sides together, so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.
Take the edges furthest from the fold and turn them inwards by about ¼”/6 mm.  Press.

Place a tab over each end of the zip, overlapping by no more than ½”/12 mm. Most of the tab needs to be beyond the zip or it will be too bulky. Top stitch across to secure the tabs to the zip.




Trim the edges of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.


Step 7: Inserting the zip

The zip can go on either side of the front.  I chose to put mine on the right. It is easiest to sew the back to the zip first as it is less bulky and sew the front to the zip afterwards.
As my zip was on the right side of the pouch, that meant sewing it first to the left side of the Back. 



Pin the correct side of the Back fabric to the edge of the zip with the slider facing the fabric.  
Then sew one of the lining pieces to the underside of the same edge of the zip (right side of fabric towards the zip), following the previous stitch line.

Tip: rather than sewing straight along the edge of the zip tabs, I got a better final result if I sewed diagonally towards the middle of tab end.  In the photo, you can see that I have curved the zip so that the end of the tabs will be mostly in the seam.



Follow the same procedure next when sewing the Front and other lining fabric to the zip. Press.

Top stitch along each side of the zip to hold outer and lining pieces in place, prevent them being caught up in the zip and give a professional finish.  


Step 8: Assembling the bag

With right sides together, sew all round the outer edges of the pouch and lining, leaving a gap of about 3”/7.5 cm at the bottom of the lining for turning.  Make sure that the zip is open or you won’t be able to pull the fabric through.  (Sorry, forgot to take photo of this stage).

Sew in the loose end of the flap loop when you get to it.

Clip the rounded corners so that they lay flat.  I just trimmed close to the seam line with pinking shears. 

Turn right side out. 

Sew up the gap in the pocket.  Press.

Top stitch around the patchwork flap to give a neat finish.






                                                                                                       
In this project I learnt:
  • Combining colour can be quite effective.  I enjoyed doing the machine patchwork and having it at a 45º angle made it more interesting than straightforward horizontal or vertical strips.  The only problem was which colour thread to use.  When assembling the bag, I ended up alternating between the different colours because I wanted the top stitching to match the fabric. This was a bit of a chore but I’m pleased with the end result.  These aren’t colours I would have thought of combining but they remind me of the garden in late summer/early autumn and work well together.
  • I’m used to working with lots of layers but not on something so small.  Usually when I make a bag for this blog, what you see is my one and only attempt at that design.  I had trouble getting my head round this – I couldn’t work out what order to sew it together in and I didn’t want to spend ages doing the patchwork and ruin it, so I used some cheap material to try it out.  My first attempt was a disaster in so many ways.  I used interfacing for each part and it was far too bulky.  I also had to keep unpicking seams because I had sewn them in the wrong order.  However, by the end, I knew what was wrong with my design and how to put it right.  To test it, I made another one – the red hearts.  That went perfectly and I knew I had got the pattern right.  Finally, I made the patchwork version.  I feel a real sense of achievement because it took so long to get this one right... but I got there in the end. I tried the zip on the left side for the heart pouch and on the right side in the patchwork pouch and they both work well. It just shows how versatile this bag is.

Sunday 21 August 2016

Bag #33: Reversible Bag

 

This bag is two bags in one.  The inside and outside are made in exactly the same way, just using different fabrics to give a different look.  I used co-ordinating fabrics, but it would also work well with opposing fabrics.

I wanted an internal pocket for keeping valuables secure.  As the inside and outside are the same, there is one pocket on the inside and one on the outside.  I also wanted some kind of closing to hold the sides of the bag together.  A zip or magnetic clasp wouldn’t be suitable because they would only work from one side, so a button seemed the best option.

I like long handles so my bags become shoulder bags but you can make the straps any length you like.

The finished size is approximately 15”/38 cm wide, 12”/30 cm high and 6“/15 cm deep.

To make this bag you will need approximately ½ yard/ metre of each fabric, including the interfacing) which will leave a bit of each left over, perhaps for a matching purse?  The outer fabrics were quilting cottons and I used medium weight interfacing and quilt wadding behind the scenes. The interfacing and wadding were from my stash and not fusible, so I used a spray adhesive to attach them to the fabric.  You would only need about 12”/30 cm of the wadding. 

I used ¼”/6mm seams and my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching.

Difficulty level: Easy – suitable for someone with basic sewing skills and able to use a sewing machine.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.


Skills used in this project:
  • Making buttonholes


Step 1: Cutting out

My little helper
 Cut out the following:
16” x 11” (40.5 cm x 28 cm) Side Panel (cut 2 fabric A, 2 fabric B, 2 wadding)

16” x 3” (40.5 cm x 7.5 cm)  Top Panel (cut 4 plain fabric, 4 interfacing)

8” x 6” (20 cm x 15 cm) Bottom (cut 1 fabric A, 1 fabric B, 1 wadding) – round off the corners to make an oval.  Alternatively, cut 2 plain fabric.

28” x 4” (71 cm x 10 cm) Handles (cut 2 plain fabric, 2 interfacing)

13” x 6 ½” (33 cm x 16.5 cm) Pocket (cut 2 plain fabric, 2 interfacing)

5¼” x 6 ½” (13 cm x 16.5 cm) Pocket flap (cut 1 fabric A, 1 fabric B, 2 interfacing) – round off the corners to make an oval.

8” x 8” (20 cm x 20 cm) Side Panel stabiliser (cut 1 interfacing)

Approximately 10”/ 20 cm Elastic cord (depending on size of buttons used)

3 medium sized buttons (mine were about 1”/2.5 cm diameter)


Step 2: Attaching the side and top panels

Attach wadding to the wrong side of both fabric A side panel pieces.

Attach interfacing to wrong side of all top panel pieces.



With right sides together sew a top panel to each side panel along one of the long edges.  If using a directional fabric, this will be the top edge. Press the seam towards the top panel.



Top stitch just above the stitch line to hold the fabrics firmly in place and give a professional finish.


Step 3: Making the pockets

Attach interfacing to the wrong side of both pocket pieces and both flap pieces.



Fold the pocket pieces along the centre so that the shorter sides meet with the wrong side (interfacing side) facing out.  Sew around the raw edges leaving a gap along the short edge for turning. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch along the short edge, closing the gap as you sew.



Position a pocket piece centrally about 2”/5 cm from the bottom on the right side of one of the fabric A side panels and the other on the right side of a fabric B side panel.  The top stitched seam needs to be at the top.  Sew around the sides and bottom of the pocket to attach it to the bag.  



When joining the pocket to fabric B, first add the piece of interfacing on the wrong side in the same position as the pocket to strengthen the fabric.

Do the same for the flap.  Fold each flap in half so that the longer sides meet, wrong side facing out.  Sew along the raw edges leaving a gap for turning. Clip the curves to make sure they lay flat when turned through (I just trimmed them with pinking shears).  Turn right sides out.  Press.  Top stitch around the entire seam, closing the gap as you sew.



Sew a buttonhole centrally on each pocket flap.  If you aren’t confident with buttonholes, they aren’t essential.  You could leave it plain or use Velcro instead.



Position the flap just above the pocket using the fabric A flap on the fabric B bag and vice versa.  Sew along the straight edge of the flap to attach it to the bag.  Do this for both pockets.

Sew a button to each of the pockets.


Step 4: Creating the bag shape

Sew both fabric A side panels together along the side seams, right sides together. Do the same for fabric B.



Gather the bottom edge of the side panels and pin to the matching bottom.  I found it easiest to mark the quarter points on both the side panels and bottom so that these cold be matched up to ensure even gathering. The sides with no backing were gathered using my machine’s longest stitch and pulling on either end to gather.  The fabric with the wadding for backing was gathered using hand stitching because, due to the thickness, it needed longer stitches than my machine was able to do. Pin to hold in place. Sew.



Step 5: Making the handles

    

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each handle fabric.  Fold in half lengthways and press.  Fold the long raw edges in towards the centrefold so that it looks like bias binding and then press closed all the way along the centrefold.

Top stitch along the open side to close it.

Top stitch along the fold side for a professional finish.

Photo shows steps 5 and 6

Fix the handles to the bag by pinning the ends approximately 4”/10 cm from each side seam on the right side of the fabric, making sure that they are not twisted.  They should be facing hanging down towards the bottom of the bag with the raw edges sticking up above the top edge of the bag with the ends of the handles sticking up by at least ½”/ 12 mm. Pin one handle to one side of the fabric A bag and the other handle to the opposite side of the fabric A bag.


Step 6: Attaching the closing button




Cut a 5”/13 cm piece of elastic cord and attach it to the centre top of the fabric A bag between the strap ends on one side.  It should be sewn to the right side of the fabric with the raw ends of the cord sticking up as shown in the photo.

Thread a piece of elastic cord through the holes in the button and attach it to the top edge between the other strap ends in the same way.


Step 7: Assembling the bag

Place fabric bags A and B right sides together so that one bag is over the other with the straps and elastic closure pushed down between them. The pockets should be on opposite sides to prevent too much bulk on one side of the bag. Sew  around the top edges to join them together leaving a gap at one side for turning.  Turn through. Press.

Top stitch all the way round.  This will also close the gap left for turning.

Top stitch a second row of stitches just below the first row.  This will secure the ends of the straps and give a professional finish.

 


You can now choose which side you want on the outside today.  Tomorrow, if you reverse the bag, it will look as though you have a completely different bag.


In this project I learnt:

  • Buttonholes are fairly straightforward.  You just have to make sure you understand how they work on your sewing machine and practise.  Many years ago, I used to make some of my own clothes.  My old sewing machine had one buttonhole stitch which was basic but simple to use. I have never used the buttonhole on my current machine. I had a choice of 15 buttonhole stitches, so I tried out a few and chose one with curved ends.  The buttonhole foot was quite tricky to get right because several bits had to be in the right place for it to work.  Once I had got to grips with that, the machine did all the work. The buttonhole on the first flap went really well, but I didn’t measure the second carefully enough and it was slightly off centre. Next time I need to measure the position more accurately. I’m glad I forced myself to use the buttonhole function.  Now I know how to use it, I’m sure I’ll use it in other projects.

  • I enjoyed designing and making this bag.  It turned out exactly as I had hoped and was easy to make.  I could have been more adventurous with the fabric but I like the idea of reverse colours in a reverse bag.  Perhaps the bottom of the bag would have been better in black rather than patterned.  It probably didn’t make any difference because the bottom is barely visible.

  • My photos never do justice to the bags.  This bag has a nice shape and is very comfortable to use.  There’s nothing wrong with my camera – it’s just my lack of skill and poor lighting.  Definitely something to work on!

Friday 19 August 2016

Has anyone tried a crochet bag?



I bought this crochet bag kit at Fibre East recently and can't wait to get started on it.  I can't crochet, but it will be fun to learn.  Does anyone have any tips?

Sunday 14 August 2016

Bag #32: Messenger Bag




I wanted to make this bag months ago and bought all the materials, but I found the task too daunting.  Now, with more time on my hands and more experience, I decided I was ready to give it a go.  I adore this bag.  It’s very plain to look at (sometimes a bag needs to be subtle) but has so many uses and I’ve learnt so much from it.  I’m so pleased I finally found time to make it.

It’s a cross body bag large enough to hold a laptop and more besides.  It would also hold 2 A4 ring binders, so it’s perfect for students starting the new academic year. There are 3 different pockets – one on the outside and 2 on the inside.  One of the pockets has a zip for extra security and, as it is so wide, I used 2 sliders – that way you don’t have to open the zip right the way across.  This pocket could easily be made deeper and padded for a tablet.  It has an adjustable strap so would be suitable for a short or tall person, although if you knew what length you wanted it, you could manage without the hardware. It would be suitable for a man or a woman, depending on the fabric used.

This bag took hours to make but it was all worth it in the end.  There were so many parts – it’s the first time I’ve had to label all the different fabric pieces in case I got them mixed up. The denim was tough to sew especially on the straps where I was sewing through 12 layers in some places!

I used a medium weight (14 oz) denim throughout with a 80% cotton/20% polyester quilt batting for a not too structured effect. I used a spray on fabric glue to attach the fleece to the denim.  If I had wanted a stiffer, firmer shape I would have used bag foam instead.  I used a cotton lining and heavy weight iron on interfacing (Vilene F250) to stiffen up the cotton so that it could take the weight of the pockets.

The finished size is 14½” / 37cm wide x 12”/ 30 cm high x 3”/ 7.5 cm deep.

I only needed ½ metre of denim as it was 60” wide, but I used almost 1 m of lining. The batting was 45” (114 cm) wide and I used 30”/just under 80 cm. I used just under 50” (about 125 cm) of the interfacing.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) when sewing the lining but increased it depending on the thickness of the seam when sewing the denim – anywhere from 3 to 5. The denim was sewn using a jeans needle.  I used ¼”/6mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

Difficulty level: Intermediate – too many steps for a beginner

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.


Skills used in this project:

  • Using hardware to attach a strap
  • Adding a pouch pocket
  • Working with denim
  • Using quilt batting in bag making


Step 1: Cutting out



Cut out the following:

15” x 11” (38 cm x 28 cm)  Bag front and back (cut 2 denim, 2 batting, 2 lining, 2 interfacing)

3” x 36” (7.5 cm x 91.5 cm)  Bag side panel (cut 1 denim, 1 batting, 1 lining, 1 interfacing)

15” x 14½” (38 cm x 37 cm Bag flap (cut 1 denim, 1 batting, 1 lining, 1 interfacing)

6” x 57” (15 cm x 145 cm) Strap (cut 1 denim)

6” x 4” (15 cm x 10 cm) Strap tabs (cut 2 denim)

15” x 9” (38 cm x 23 cm)  External pocket (cut 1 denim, 1 batting, 1 lining, 1 interfacing)

15” x 5 ½ “ (38 cm x 14 cm) Lower Internal zip pocket (cut 2 lining, 1* interfacing) * I attached interfacing to both bits of lining but I realised afterwards that it wasn’t necessary.

15” x 2” (38 cm x 5 cm) Upper Internal zip pocket (cut 2 lining, 1* interfacing)

11 “ x 7” (28 cm x 18 cm) Internal pleated pocket (cut 1 interfacing)

11“ x 14” (28 cm x 36 cm) Internal pleated pocket (cut 1 lining)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm)  Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 interfacing)

15” (38 cm) Zip with 2 sliders  ( I used an N3 zip from a continuous roll)

2 magnetic clasps

1 x 1 ½” (38-40 mm) slider

2 x 1 ½” (38-40mm) metal rectangles

Small piece of bag foam, heavy interfacing or denim to add extra strength to the back of the clasps


Step 2: Creating the bag’s shape



The bottom corners (either end of one of the 15"/38 cm edges) of the bag need to have a gentle curve.  To create this, draw round something small and round (I used a tape measure) and then trim the bottom corners for all fabrics (denim, batting, interfacing, lining) used in the bag back, bag front, flap and external pocket.


Step 3: Attaching the interfacing/batting

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining and the batting to the wrong side of the denim for all bag pieces.


Step 4: Making the external pocket




Fix the heavy part of the magnetic clasps to the bottom corners of the denim pocket.  These will be on the outside of the bag.  Leave enough room to comfortably sew the seam around them (mine were about 1 ½”/4 cm from the side and bottom edge).  I  also added a small piece of bag foam to the back of the clasp to make it extra firm – a couple of small bits of denim would do the job too.

Place the denim and lining, right sides together and sew along the top straight edge.

Turn right sides out and press.  



Top stitch along the top seam to create a neat finish.

I also sewed all round the sides and bottom to ensure that all layers stayed together although this isn’t absolutely necessary.  I did this to be sure that, when I sewed the pocket to the bag front, I sewed through all layers – denim and lining.


Step 5: Attaching the external pocket to the bag front



Sew the external pocket to the denim bag front, matching the bottom corners.  Sew close to the edge so that the stitches won’t be visible when you attach the side panel.


Step 6: Attaching the side panel



Sew the denim side panel to the denim bag front, right sides together starting at the top of one side, going across the bottom and up the other side.



Do the same for the denim bag back.


Step 7: Making the flap



Attach the thinner part of the magnetic clasps to the lining of the flap so that they match the position on the bag front.  It is even more important to add a strong stabiliser such as a small piece of bag foam to the back of the clasp as the lining will be flimsier than the denim.

With right sides together, sew the denim to the lining along the sides and the curved end.  Leave the other straight end open for turning.

Turn so that the right sides are facing out and press.

Top stitch all round the seam you have just sewn to hold it in place.


Step 8: Making the strap tabs



Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the parallel raw edges in towards the fold so that the tabs look like 1 ½”  bias binding.  Fold one end in to hide the raw edges.  Top stitch along one long side, the folded in end and the other long side.



This photo was taken after the bag had been completed so the strap is also attached.


Loop each tab over one of the metal rectangles and sew centrally to the side panel as shown in the photo hiding the raw edge end under the sewn end. The top of the metal rectangle should be roughly level with the top of the bag. Do this by sewing a box or rectangle to hold the strap firmly in place. 


Step 9: Making the strap



As above, fold the strap so that it looks like bias binding and top stitch along both long edges.  It will get in the way if attached now, so put to one side until the lining has been completed.


Step 10: Making the zip tabs

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  



Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  



Wrap a tab around each end of the zip and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  



Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.


Step 11: Making the zip pocket



Sew the upper internal zip pocket pieces to one edge of the zip.  To do this, place the fabric pieces right sides together (the lining with interfacing can go on either side) and insert the zip between them so that the edge of the zip is in line with the raw edges of the fabric. 

Do the same for the lower pocket pieces.



With right sides still together, sew the bottom edges of the lower pocket pieces together.  
Pull through so the right sides are facing out and press.

The upper internal pocket top seam could be sewn in the same way but it is tricky to pull it through.  Instead fold the top edge of each lining piece under by ¼” and press.  Pin to hold. 

Top stitch along both edges of the zip for a neat finish and to prevent the fabric getting caught up in the zip.



Attach the pocket to the right side of one of the bag lining pieces.  Place the pocket on the lining with the zip facing out and sew all round the edges of the pocket, close to the edge.


Step 12: Making the phone/pen pocket



After attaching the interfacing to the wrong side of one half of the pocket, fold the other half over so that the right sides are together.  Sew around the open edges leaving a gap for turning.  Turn through and press. The opening, which will go at the bottom, can either be sewn up now or when attaching the pocket to the lining. Top stitch along the top edge to ensure a crisp top to the pocket.

The pockets are created by inserting pleats or folds in the pocket fabric.  Decide how wide you want the different compartments and pin the pleats in place.  I made the mobile phone pocket 3 ½” wide with a ½” pleat either side.  I then made a couple of small pleats at the other end of the bottom of the pocket for the pen slots.

Pin the pocket in place on the right side of the other bag lining piece.  Sew along sides and bottom to attach.  This will also close up the gap where you turned the pocket through.

Sew from the bottom of the pocket about 1/3 of the way up the phone pleats to hold them in place. Sew a line of stitches either side of the pen pleats, all the way up, to create a separate slot for each pen.


Step 13: Assembling the bag lining


Sew the lining side panel to one of the bag body lining pieces as you did with the denim.



Do the same for the other bag body lining piece.


Step 14: Attaching the flap



Place the flap facing downwards with the right (denim) side against the right side of the back of the bag and the raw edge of the flap matching the raw edge at the top of the bag.  

Check that the magnetic clasps will match up when the flap is sewn on and make any necessary adjustments.

Sew along the raw edge to attach the flap to the bag.


Step 15: Inserting the lining

When joining the lining to the bag, the zip pocket should be at the back of the bag and the phone pocket at the front.

With the denim bag right side out and the lining bag wrong side out, place the lining over the denim so that right sides are together.  Make sure that the flap is folded down between the denim bag and the lining.  Sew around the top edge of the bag leaving a gap of about 6” for turning at the back of the bag. Turn through. (Sorry - forgot to take a photo of this stage)




Top stitch all round the seam you have just sewn, closing the gap as you sew.


Step 16: Attaching the strap



Thread one end of the strap through the centre bar of the slider and fold the end back, sewing it to the strap.  I sewed this by hand because there were 12 layers of denim and my sewing machine struggled with this!



With this turned over end facing outwards, pass the strap downwards through one of the metal rectangles. 



Thread the other end of the strap through the slider as shown in the photo.


Pass the other end of the strap through the metal rectangle on the other side of the bag, making sure that the strap is not twisted. The end needs to be on the inside.  Sew to secure.




At last, your bag is complete.  Everything you will need for the day will fit in there, so take a day off and try your bag for size.  It was worth the effort, wasn’t it?

In this project I learnt:
  • I used metal rectangles and a slider to attach the strap and make it adjustable.  They look good and were fairly easy to use.  The only problem I encountered was the thickness of the denim.  My sewing machine struggled to sew through 12 layers when sewing the ends of the strap and I ended up finishing them by hand.  I would like to try some more different handle styles as they make a bag look ‘bought’.  The problem with bag hardware is that it isn’t always easy to obtain and having to buy it online means being very organised!
  • I have never tried this type of zip pocket but I really like it.  It is so versatile and could go on either the outside or inside of a bag.  I found it really easy to make although I got confused about which parts I needed to sew together after inserting the zip and had to unpick my first attempt. I found it easier than the pockets you post through a slot in the lining but it doesn’t look as professional. 
  • I prepared for the denim by buying a special sewing machine needle and it was effective although my machine struggled with really bulking seams such as when top stitching around the top of the bag or attaching the strap to the hardware. I made sure that when I was sewing a bulky seam I went slowly and increased the stitch length. This will make me confident to try other fairly heavy fabrics in future.
  • I wanted to try quilt batting to put behind the denim.  I thought this would give the bag some softness and stability without too much rigidity or thickness.  I cut some from a pack of crib batting and still had lots left.  Now that I have spray adhesive I’m not restricted to a fusible wadding which gives me more options.  This was a joy to work with and the bag feels really soft.  When I don’t want a structured bag I think this will be my preferred backing.