Bag #10: Miniature Make Up Bag

I decided to make another (smaller) make up bag because I thought the size would be a challenge in itself.  I’m not the most patient of sewists and I can’t be bothered with anything too fiddly.  However, this pattern is very straightforward.

It’s Mother’s Day in the UK this weekend and my mother likes all things small, so this is an ideal little extra gift for her.  She loves pink too, so her presents will have a pink theme (I’m also giving her the pink cat tote bag I made earlier this year.

This really is a teeny tiny bag.  It can take one lipstick or small eyeshadow, so I’m not sure how practical it is.  I think my mother will actually use it as a coin purse.  I might fill it with chocolate coins when I give it to her if I can get them at this time of year. It would take those tiny nail files you can get and a small nail varnish, so that might be a good idea for a girly gift for a teen.

The finished size is 2 ¼” tall x 3 ½” wide.  As usual, I used ¼” seams and normal stitch length for seams (2.5 on my machine) but 3 for topstitching along the side of the zip and the D ring tab. It only uses small amounts of fabric so you can delve into your scrap bag and use up some of your left overs.

I recommend that you read my comments at the end of this post before attempting this bag.

Skills used in this project:

• Miniature making
• Matching up seams/fabrics

Step 1: Cutting out

From the main outer fabric cut:

4” x 2 ½” bag upper body (cut 2) – trim so that one of the long sides is curved

From the contrasting fabric cut:

4” x 1 ½” bag base (cut 2)

1 ½” x 2” D ring tab (cut 1)

1 ½” x 1 ½” zip tabs (cut 2) (but see comments at end of this post)

From the lining, cut

4” x 3 ½” Bag lining (cut 2) - trim so that one of the long sides is curved

From the medium weight sew-in interfacing, cut

4” x 3 ½” Bag body (cut 2) - trim so that one of the long sides is curved

From the lining, interfacing and contrast fabric, cut a ¾” square from the bottom corners.

You will also need:

½” D ring

4” zip (I used N3 size bought from a roll)

Step 2: Making the bag sides

Sew the main fabric and base together to make the two sides.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs

Tack the sides of the zip together at each end to make sure that they stay firmly together when attaching the tabs.

To make the zip tabs, fold the fabric square in half and fold the raw edges inwards so that they will not be visible when the zip is sandwiched between both sides of the tab.  Overlap the zip by about ½” at each end.  Top stitch across the zip making sure that both sides of the tab are sewn in place.  This will make the zip ends secure. Trim so that the tabs are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Attaching the zip

To attach one side of the bag to the zip, lay the fabric on a flat surface, first the interfacing, then the outer fabric (right side up), then the zip (right side down), then the lining (right side down).  Pin to hold in place. Using a zip foot, sew the zip to the fabric through all layers. Do the same with the other side of the zip. Press. Top stitch along the fabric on each side of the zip.

Step 5: Adding the D ring tab

Fold the tab fabric in half along the longer side.  Fold each side in towards the previous fold so that the fabric looks like bias binding.  Press.  Top stitch along the open side.  Attached the D ring and sew the ends together to secure.  Sew the tab to the main fabric where you want it to go.  The top of my tab was ½” from the zip.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Flatten the bag pieces so that the 2 outer parts of the bag and interfacing are together and the 2 lining pieces are together.  Make sure that the join between the main and contrasting fabric matches perfectly on both sides.  The zip needs to be open so that you can turn the bag inside out.  Sew along the sides and bottoms, leaving a gap in the base of the lining for turning through.  Do not sew the corner cut outs yet.

Once the main seams have been sewn, flatten out the corners so that the side and bottom seams meet and the corner now forms a straight line.  Sew this seam in place for each of the corners, making sure that the side and bottom seams match perfectly.

Turn the bag through the gap in the lining so that right sides are facing out and sew up the bottom seam. Press.  

Well done!  Your bag is now finished and ready to take all those tiny things you've been waiting to put in it.

       

In this project I learnt:

• You can’t just reduce everything by the same proportions and expect it to work. The measurements have to be adjusted to take into account the fact that the seams are still the same size.  If I made this bag again, I would make the zip tabs bigger and the curve at the top of the bag more pronounced.

• I made the zip tabs small as it was a small bag.  They still serve their purpose in making the zip ends secure but they are barely visible as they have been swallowed up in the seam allowance.  If making the bag again, I would make them about ¾” longer i.e. 1 ½” x 2 ¼”.

• In other respects, the small size wasn’t a problem and was no more difficult than a larger bag but I think that’s because the bag had quite a simple shape.

• I was really pleased with the way the seams/fabrics matched up – the bag had a very professional finish.  I’m definitely becoming more precise as a result of this year-long project.