Bag #22: Canvas handbag

I decided to make a small summer handbag now the weather is warming up.  I had a fabric in mind but then I saw this sewing-themed cotton canvas at my local market and fell in love with it. It is sturdy without being too heavy - even my sewing machine liked it.  I added a D ring tab and an internal zip pocket as those are the little extras that make the bag just right for my needs.  The finished bag measures approximately 11"/28cm wide at the top, 5"/12.5cm deep at the base and 8"/20cm high excluding the handles (13"/33cm including the handles). 

I used various different types of interfacing from my stash.  When I'm making a bag, I just get my interfacings out and try them with the fabric to see the effect.  I liked the ultra firm interfacing which created the bag's structure without the bulk you get from foam, fleece or wadding. I used an interfacing that was marginally lighter around the zip because that area has to be a bit more flexible. Around the internal pocket I used a considerably lighter interfacing and this was an iron-on one so that it stayed in place while I made the pocket.

You could just about squeeze this bag out of 3 fat quarters (one for the patterned fabric, one for the plain fabric and one for the lining) or 12"/30cm strips of fabric so it wouldn't be expensive to make, although the handles cost more than the rest of the bag put together!    I used cotton canvas for the exterior and quilting cotton for the lining.

My machine was set at its normal stitch length (2.5) and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using wooden handles

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9" x 11½" (23cm x 29cm) Bag sides (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

4½" x 6½" (11.5cm x 16.5cm) Bag bottom (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

3" x 11½" (7.5cm x 29cm) Zip  panels (cut 2 plain canvas, 2 heavy interfacing)

4" x 5" (10cm x 13cm) Handle tabs (cut 4 plain canvas)

3" x 2" (7.5cm x 5cm)  D ring tab (cut 1 plain canvas)

8" x 5" (20cm x 13cm) Inside pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 light/medium iron on interfacing)

8" x 3" (20cm x 7.5cm) Bag lining light/medium iron-on interfacing to reinforce pocket opening 

12"/30cm  zip  for bag closure

8"(20cm)  zip for internal pocket

¾"/20mm D ring

Step 2: Making the D ring tab

 

Fold the tab fabric in half so that the shorter sides meet.  Press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre so that it looks like bias binding (see photo above), then fold along the centre.  Press.   Top stitch along each long edge.  Slip the tab through the D ring and fold the tab over.  Secure with a few stitches at the raw edges.

Step 3: Assembling the outer bag

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of each patterned bag side. Place these bag sides right sides together and sew the side seams, inserting the D ring tab approximately 2" (5 cm) from the top. (I forgot to add the D ring tab and had to go back later and add it!)

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the patterned bag bottom.  Pin the bag bottom carefully to the bag sides, right sides together.  Sew.

   

Step 4: Making the internal pocket

 

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each pocket piece.  Also attach the smaller piece of interfacing to the wrong side of one of the lining bag sides - position it centrally so that the top edge of the interfacing is approximately 2"/5cm from the top edge of the bag.

Mark a rectangle 3/8" x 6" (1cm x 15cm) on one of the pocket interfacings, starting 1 ½"/4cm from the top of the pocket. Also mark a line along the centre - this will be your cutting line.

 

Place the pocket pieces on the lining, right sides together, so that the top of the pocket lines up with the top edge of the interfacing on the lining. Pin. Sew around the rectangle.   Cut along the central line and into the corners, making sure not to cut the stitches.  Post the pocket through the slit and press it flat.  Pin the zip through all the layers so that the right side is facing out through the bag side lining.  Sew all round the zip. 

Pin the other pocket piece, which will form the back of the pocket, to the pocket piece to which you have already attached the zip, right sides together.  Sew all round making sure to sew only though the pocket and not through the bag side lining. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag lining

Place both side bag linings, right sides together, and sew along each of the side seams. Press open.

Sew the lining bottom to the lining sides.

Step 6: Attaching the zip to the zip panels

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip panels.  There is no lining for the zip panels as the underside is scarcely visible when the bag is assembled.

Sew the zip to one side of the zip panel, right sides together.  

Sew the other zip panel to the other side of the zip.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional finish.

Fold the zip panels so that they are facing each other, right sides together and sew the raw edges at each end together.

Step 7: Making the handle tabs

Make the handle tabs in the same way that you made the D ring tab.  

Once sewn, the handle tabs will measure 5" x 1" (12.5cm x 2.5cm).  Fold them in half and sew a 2"/5cm line of stitches down the centre of the tab starting at the raw edges.  This will hold them firmly together when the bag is assembled.

(I didn't need to insert the wooden handles at this stage because they were easy to slip on and off, but if you were using a differently shaped handle e.g. a circle, you would need to attach it to the tabs before sewing up the ends.)

Step 8: Assembling the bag

Turn the bag so that the right side is facing inwards. Place the zip panels inside the bag with the right sides facing downwards.  Pin the zip panels all the way round the top of the bag so that the raw edges match.  Make sure that the zip is open, otherwise you will not be able to turn the bag through when it is finished.

Position the handle tabs where you want them to go.  Mine had the nearest tab edge about 2¾"/7cm from the side seam.  The handles will need to go inside the bag between the zip panel and the bag side with the raw edges of the tabs sticking out through the top seam. 

Sew all round the top.  I found it easier to sew the bag sides to the zip panel and then use an unpicker to make gaps in the stitching for the handle tabs which I then sewed in place.

Place the bag lining over the outside (wrong side) of the bag.  The right side of the lining will face out.  Pin, then sew all round the top seam, following the existing stitch line where you attached the zip panels.

Turn the bag right side out through the zip.

Sew a ling of top stitching about ¼"/6mm from the top through all layers (outer bag, lining and zip panel).  Sew another line of top stitching about 1"/2.5cm below the first line, through all layers.  This will hold the zip panel tight so that it forms the shape at the top of the bag.

Insert the wooden handles into the tabs and away you go!  I absolutely love this little bag and can't wait to use it.  

In this project I learnt:

• These wooden handles turned out to be really easy to use because I was able to slip them out and put them back in.  It took me a while to work out that this was possible.  I had already struggled to sew all round the top edge and the handles made it really difficult (although not impossible) to manipulate the fabric.  As soon as I realised I could take the handles out, the task became much quicker and easier (and I could have avoided the wobbly top edge where I tried to sew round the wooden handles!).  This wouldn't be possible with many wooden handles, but is something to bear in mind when choosing which handles to buy.  I could make several bags with tabs for these handles and then swap them over when I want to use a different bag - that would save me a fortune in bag handles!

• I was only able to get an N3 zip in a co-ordinating colour but the bag really needs a much sturdier zip.  I could have got what I wanted on the internet but I was too impatient to wait.  It's probably a decision I shall live to regret but I had a great time making this bag so it was worth it.  The internal pocket was a last minute decision.  I only had one co-ordinating zip, so I used that on the outside and used a plain white one inside.  Pink would have looked better, but at least I can easily find the pocket whereas a pink zip would have been almost invisible inside the bag.

Bag #21: Wellington Boot Bag

From IKEA shopping bag to designer boot bag

In the early days of this '52 bags in a year' project, someone left a comment suggesting upcycling and that’s what this week’s bag is all about.  It is made from 2 large IKEA bags which I dismantled and then made into a completely different bag. It cost me 80p (40 pence for each bag) plus the cost of the trimmings (Velcro, piping cord, handle, fabric for the piping). It would have been even cheaper if I had re-used the IKEA handles. I looked into buying a boot bag but they cost about £20, so I feel I’ve got a bargain here with my budget bag.

I wanted a bag to put my Wellington boots in that would keep my car clean.  This bag isn’t waterproof (although it could be if it were made from a different fabric), but it will prevent muddy boots from making a mess as long as they aren’t too wet. 

This bag should fit most boots regardless of shoe size, but it would be a good idea to check by measuring them.  The pictures show the bag with my boots in it which are UK size 6/continental 39 and are 16” (40.5 cm) high, but there is lots of spare room.  The final size of the bag is 18” (45.5cm) high, 10” (20 cm) wide,12” (30cm) deep.

I made this bag in an afternoon.  The bag itself was quite straight forward but the fabric was hard to manipulate because it was so stiff.

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 and a leather needle for sewing the blue bag fabric (after breaking an ordinary needle). I used ¼” or 6 mm seam allowances throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Upcycling
• Using a very stiff fabric

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

18 ½” x 12 ½” (46 x 31 cm) boot shaped pieces for the sides – cut 2 (they need to be reverse images of each other)

48” x 10½” (122 x 27 cm) all in one top, back and bottom piece (cut 1)

14” x 5” (35.5 x 12.5 cm) front side strips (cut 2 bag fabric and 2 medium sew-in interfacing)

14” x 8½” (35.5 x 21.5cm) front flap (2 bag fabric, 1 medium sew-in interfacing)

20”/50 cm webbing for handle and front flap (you could use the IKEA bag handles for this)

20”/50 cm strip of Velcro

120”/3 m piping cord

60”x 1” (150 cm x 25 mm) strips of contrasting bias cut fabric (cut 2) or join several smaller strips

Step 2: Making the side pattern

Create the boot shape for the side panels by trimming the top (one of the short edges) so that it only measures 8 ½” or 21mm across and then draw a line linking it to the bottom edge.  Cut to size and create curves at all the corners.  I found it easier to make a pattern first and then just cut around it.  The side piece fits the fabric from the bottom of the IKEA bag perfectly.

Step 3: Making the piping

Using the bias cut strips, join any smaller strips of fabric by placing them at right angles, right sides together, and sewing diagonally across as shown in the photo. Trim the seam and press open.

Fold one end of the binding under so that the raw edge will not be visible. Start the piping about ½” or 1 cm in and fold the fabric strip over the piping, right sides out, so that the piping is completely encased and the raw edges of the fabric strip meet. 

 

Using a zip foot and a longer stitch e.g. 3, sew close to the piping all the way along the strip, starting about ½” or 1.2 cm from the end you folded under.

Do this for both lengths of piping.

Step 4: Attaching the piping

 Pin the encased piping to the right side of one of the boot shaped sides starting at the bottom of the boot.  Match the raw edges of the piping with the raw edges of the bag fabric. Leave the first 1”/2.5 cm unsewn. Sew nearly all the way round.  When you get back to where you started, trim the end piping so that the piping meets but the start fabric should overlap the end fabric to create a neat overlap.  Once you are happy with the join, finish sewing the piping to the bottom of the bag.

Do the same for the other boot shaped side.   

Step 5: Assembling the bag

Cut a piece of webbing 11”/28cm long.

Sew a hem at each end of the all in one top/back/bottom piece by folding the end under by about ½”/1.2 cm and then again by 1”/2.5 cm to create a neat, strong edge.

Sew the top/back/bottom piece to the boot shaped piece starting about 4”/10cm from the top, right sides together, all the way round.  When you get to the top sew one raw end of the handle webbing between the fabrics so that the raw edges meet. This should be positioned in the centre of the top.

Do the same for the other boot shaped side.

Step 6: Making and adding the front sides

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the side panels and fold them in half lengthways, wrong sides together.  Sew all round. Do the same for the other side panel.  I hemmed the ends but I realised afterwards that it really wasn't necessary as only the edge at the opening will be visible.

 

Position the side panels in place so that they overlap both ends on the wrong side of the top/back/bottom piece. 

The boot bag should still be wrong side out.  Sew the side panels along the side edge to the boot shape piece with the piping between them.

Turn the bag right side out and sew along the top and bottom edges to attach each side panel to the top/back/bottom piece.

Step 7: Making and adding the front flap

 

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the front flap pieces.  Pin the front flap pieces together, right sides together.  Trim to create a gentle curve on the bottom corners (the bottom will be one of the short sides). I drew round a saucer to create the shape. 

Pin the remaining webbing between the right sides of the fabric just after the curve.

Sew the bottom curve, ensuring that you sew the webbing into the side seams, keeping it flat.  As the material is fairly stiff, turn right sides out and finger press the curve you have just sewn, but it is easier to sew the side seams from the right side by folding the fabrics in and then sewing along the seam.

Cut the Velcro into 2 equal length strips.  Sew the velcro to the wrong side of the flap close to the edge starting just above the webbing (which will be on the right side).

Attach the front flap to the top by positioning it centrally so that it covers the flap.  The raw edge of the flap will be just above the top of the opening with the flap facing upwards.  Sew. The raw edge at the top of the flap will not be visible when the bag is in use.

Step 8: Attaching the velcro

Now we need to attach the other part of each Velcro strip to the side panels.  Fold the flap down to check the best position for the Velcro so that it matches the Velcro on the flap.  Pin and sew.

Finished!  Put your boots in your bag and off you go for a muddy walk in the countryside, safe in the knowledge that your car and home will have some protection from all the mucky stuff out there.

  

In this project I learnt:

• I certainly had a good feeling from getting something for almost nothing.  The bag looks great and serves a useful purpose.  I shall certainly look at what else I could re-use to make into a cheap bag.  

• This was a difficult fabric to manipulate because it was so stiff, although that was only a problem in the final stages when the bag was almost complete because other bits of the bag wouldn’t flatten and enable me to get to the final seams.  It was good experience to work with a completely different fabric, which is what this year’s project is all about.

• I am getting much more organised.  I thought about the trimmings I would want in advance – webbing, piping, etc, but I hadn’t planned to use interfacing.  It was only when I started to cut out the pieces that I realised the need for a stabiliser to give the fabric strength around the Velcro i.e. in the front flap and front side panels.  When I burrowed through my stash, I didn’t have enough suitable interfacing and had to use different types on the panels and flap.  It doesn’t really matter because they feel and look the same, but I was annoyed with myself for not thinking it through. I like the fact that I've become very adaptable and can usually find some means of achieving the result I want.  Well, at least it gives me an excuse for another outing to my wonderful local haberdashery store.  If they had beds and a cafe there, I’d never leave!

Bag #20: Faux Leather Wrist Bag

I have wanted a wrist bag for some time now.  I like to have my hands free when I'm out, so I tend to use a shoulder bag but this is an alternative.  I made this light-coloured bag for summer to use by itself or to slip into a tote bag to keep my valuables secure.  It would also look good in a sparkly fabric for evening use. It is just large enough for my purse and phone.

This style is very adaptable.  It could easily be made slightly larger for someone who likes to carry more of their life around with them.

I really like to use metal hardware on a bag.  It prevents it from looking homemade and is easy to use as long as you have the correct tools.

I used a leather needle and clipped rather than pinned to avoid leaving visible holes in the fabric (although I pinned in the seam allowance where I could).  I had a small amount of upholstery faux leather  which is thicker than the type of leather which would normally be used for bag making. As it was quite thick, I increased my stitch length to 3 (3.5 for top stitching). 

The finished size is approximately 9½" x 5½".

I top stitched around the bag after finishing to emphasise the shape.  If using a thinner fabric, I think piping would look good to make the shape stand out.

Skills used in this project:

• Using faux leather

• Using eyelets

• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

10" x 6" faux leather outer bag (cut 2)

10" x 6" bag lining (cut 2)

2" x 19" faux leather strap (cut 1)

2" x 4" thin faux leather (or other suitable fabric) zip tabs  (cut 2)

7" x 5" internal pocket lining (cut 2)

7" x 5" lightweight internal pocket interfacing (cut 2)

7" x 3" lightweight interfacing for reinforcing internal zip

To create the bottom curves in the faux leather and lining, draw round a tea plate

You will also need:

10" N5 zip

7" N3 zip

Large eyelet (I used 14mm)

9 mm shank rivet

Step 2: Making the internal pocket

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of both internal pocket lining pieces.

Iron the 7" x 3" interfacing to the wrong side of one of the bag lining pieces.  The interfacing needs to be positioned centrally so that one 7" edge is resting against the top raw edge of the lining.

Pin one of the internal pocket linings onto the bag lining, right sides together with the top raw edges matching .   The pocket interfacing will be on top and the upper edges of the interfacing will match.

Using an erasable/soluble pen draw a rectangle onto the interfacing ½" x 5". I tend to use friction pens which disappear with the heat of an iron.  It should be 1" from each side of the interfacing and 1" from the top raw edge. 

Sew around this rectangle through the pocket lining, bag lining and both interfacings.

Draw a line along the centre of the rectangle and cut a slit in pocket lining and bag lining fabrics as shown in the photo, making sure not to cut the stitches. You will now have a slit like a letterbox.  Post the pocket lining through the letterbox and press flat.

Place the N3 zip on the pocket lining so that the right side shows through the letter box. The zip will be 1" longer at each end for ease of fitting.  Sew all round the zip, through the pocket lining, bag lining and interfacings.

Sew the other pocket lining to the one which has the zip in it around the sides and bottom, making sure not to sew the bag lining.

Sew both pocket pieces to the bag lining along the top edge. 

Step 3: Attaching the zip tabs for the outer zip

 

Fold zip tab half so that the short edges meet, ensuring that the wrong sides are together.

Fold each short edge under by ¼" and pin/clip.  Press if appropriate for the fabric you are using.

Place at tab at each end of the zip so that they fully cover the zip.  Sew across to secure. 

Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 4: Attaching the outer zip

 

Lay out one of the faux leather bag sides, right side up.  Lay the zip across the straight long side with the right side of the zip facing the faux leather. The edge of the zip should match the raw edge of the fabric.  Place the lining, right side down over the same side of the zip to form a 'zip sandwich'.  Clip together, then sew.

Do the same on the other side of the zip with the faux leather and the other lining piece.

Top stitch through all layers on both sides of the zip, close to the edge – this gives a professional appearance. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

Making sure that the zip is open, sew the two faux leather bag pieces together, right sides together.

Do the same for the lining pieces, but leave a 5" gap at the bottom for turning.

Clip around the curves or trim with pinking shears to ensure that the bag keeps its curvy shape.

Turn through and sew up the gap at the bottom of the lining by hand or machine. 

Top stitch on the outside of the bag from the zip, all the way round the curve and up to the other end of the zip to reinforce the bag's shape.

Step 6: Making the wrist strap

Fold the faux leather strap in half lenthways and then fold each side inwards so that it looks like bias binding.  Sew along the open edge.

 

Step 7: Adding the eyelet

Attach the eyelet to one of the top corners of the bag.  First make a hole through all layers of the fabric (kits come with the right size tool to do this), then position the top and bottom eyelet parts in place and secure by lightly hammering.

Step 8: Attaching the wrist strap

Thread the wrist strap through the eyelet and fold the other end of the strap so that they overlap by ½".  Secure both ends to the other side of the strap using a rivet.  First make a hole through all layers of the strap using a tailor's awl.  Place both parts of the rivet in place so that they meet and secure by lightly hammering.

 

Congratulation! Your bag is now finished. Fill it with only your absolute essentials, slip it over your wrist and use it when you have more important things to do with your hands than hold a bag. 

In this project I learnt:

• This faux leather was easy to sew with, but too thick to use for the zip tabs, as I learnt to my cost.  They just disappeared in a great mass of seams at the top corners.  I think they would work well using a faux leather meant for bag making.  If I used upholstery faux leather again, I would make the tabs out of cotton to give the bag a straighter, sharper to edge.

• Without top stitching around the bottom edge, the bag looked horrible and shapeless and I was very disappointed with the finished result.  I left it a few days and thought about what to do and then went back and top stitched all the way round.  This was just what was needed to give the bag definition.  I wish I had thought of it while making the bag as it would have been easier to do before the metal fittings were added. I am still very bad at top stitching around curves - I still get a wobbly irregular line no matter how hard I try.  I reduced my sewing machine's speed and took it really slowly but I think it might have been better if I had kept going rather than stopping and starting every few stitches.

• I have used eyelets and rivets in a couple of my other bags.  They are relatively straight forward to use but I find that each bag needs a different size or depth and I have to keep buying different ones.  It is fairly obvious what to do when attaching rivets but I always struggle with eyelets, never sure which way up each part goes.  I suppose the more I use them, the easier it will become.  I wasn't careful enough with these ones and banged a bit too hard leaving small dents.  I need to remember to use fabric, paper or card to protect the hardware as I was obviously a bit too rough!