Bag #52: Wipe Clean Shopping Bag

This is my 52^nd and last bag of 2016.  I started the year with a shopping bag and developed a liking for PVC right at the start, so I decided to end with a bag which combines both.  This PVC bag is quite straightforward in design – just a couple of rectangles joined together with handles.  For a really quick version, it could be made unlined.  I added a lining, an internal zip pocket and a magnetic clasp. As it’s made of PVC, it can just be wiped clean, so there’s no excuse for a mucky bag.

The PVC was a remnant from my local home furnishing store.  I can often get bargain remnants there because they find it hard it to sell small quantities of PVC (this was half a metre). I think PVC is sturdy enough not to need any wadding or interfacing, but I added a medium weight interfacing around the zip and on the pocket to give the lining extra stability.  I used a polyester lining.

You would need half a metre of PVC and lining and a 7”/18 cm strip of interfacing to make this bag.

The finished size is approximately 17”/43 cm high (plus handles) and 14”/35.5 cm wide.

Skill level: Intermediate as PVC isn’t the easiest fabric to work with.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) for the seams and 5 for top stitching.  I used ½”/12 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

15” x 18”/38 cm x 46 cm Outer bag sides (cut 2 PVC)

16” x 4”/40.5 cm x 10 cm Handles (cut 2 PVC)

15” x 3”/38 cm x 7.5 cm Upper internal bag (cut 2 PVC)

15” x 15¾”/38 cm x 40 cm Lower internal bag (cut 2 lining)

10” x 7”/25.5 cm x 18 cm Internal pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 interfacing)

10” x 3“/25.5 cm x 7.5 cm Lining stabiliser (cut 1 interfacing)

9”/23 cm  zip (I used an N3 zip from a continuous roll)

Magnetic clasp & small off cut of bag foam/wadding for reinforcement

Step 2: Making the outer bag

Place the 2 PVC outer bag pieces right sides together and sew round the sides and bottom.  Don’t forget to check that the pattern is the right way up.

There is no need to turn it right side out until later.

Step 3: Making the handles

 

Fold the handles in half lengthways to find the centre.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half and top stitch close to the edge along each long side of the handle.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Sew each end of the handles to the top of the outer bag about 4”/10 cm from the nearest side seam, making sure the handle isn't twisted. It should curve downwards as shown in the photo. 

Step 4: Sewing the internal pocket

Interfacing attached to bag lining along
one of the shorter sides

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side (if there is one) of the pocket pieces and bag lining.

Pin one pocket piece to one of the bag linings, right sides together, with the long side of the pocket along the top edge of the lining, to match the position of the interfacing on the bag lining.   

Draw a ½” x 8”/12 mm x 20 cm rectangle along the centre of the pocket interfacing about 1½"/4 cm from the top edge.

Sew around this rectangle through all the layers that you have just pinned together.  

Cut a slit in this rectangle (as shown in the photo) making sure not to cut the stitches. 

Push the pocket through this ‘letterbox’, shape in the lining so that it sits flat and press. You will now have a neat opening to attach the zip.

Pin the zip to the pocket so that the right side shows through the aperture in the bag lining. Sew all round the zip.

Pin the remaining pocket piece to this one, right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom, keeping the bag lining out of the way as you do not want to sew through this. 

Sew along the top of the pocket and the bag lining to hold the pocket firmly in place.

Step 5: Attaching the magnetic clasps

One side of the magnetic fastener needs to be attached to one of the upper internal bag PVC strips.  

Fold the fabric in half horizontally and then vertically to find the centre and mark.  Using the washer, mark where the prongs will go through the fabric, then carefully make a small slit along each of these marks using a stitch unpicker. 

Cut a small piece of foam to roughly the same size as the washer and make a slit for each of the prongs. 

Push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the PVC, through the foam and the washer and open them outwards to secure.

Do the same with the other part of the magnetic clasp and PVC strip.  

Step 6: Making the inner bag

Sew one PVC upper internal bag to one lining piece, right sides together.  Make sure that any pattern will be the right way up. 

Do the same for the other PVC strip and lining.

With right sides together, sew the side seams.  Do not sew the bottom seam at this stage.

Step 7: Assembling the bag

With the PVC outer bag wrong side out, place the lining inside, right side out – the inner and outer bags will now be right sides together with only the handles between them.

Keeping the handles between the fabric sew around the top of both parts of the bag to join them.

Turn through so that the lining is inside and the PVC outer bag has its right side facing out.  

Top stitch around the top edge.

Sew the bottom edges of the lining together.

Well done, you’ve finished the bag.  Time to go sale shopping to test it out!

In this project I learnt:

• This PVC was harder to work with than others I have used.  PVC seems to vary enormously in thickness and workability.  My sewing machine hated this one.  I tried the general purpose foot, zip foot and roller foot and none of them worked.  As a last resort, I tried the walking foot which worked brilliantly.  One of the things I’ve learnt this year is that there is usually a solution – it’s trial and error until you find it.  Over the year, I’ve learnt that a really long stitch works best when top stitching PVC.

• When sewing up the lining, I usually partially sew the bottom seam and then sew up the gap when the bag is almost finished.  However, I have found that polyester lining often frays when I try to push the PVC through a too-small gap.  I decided this time to leave the whole bottom seam open and sew it up afterwards.  This was much better – no fraying and the finish was much neater than usual.  

Bag #51: Metal Frame Bag

 

I wanted to use a metal frame this week and chose this metal arch frame which I bought in the summer at the Festival of Quilts. I have seen lots of simple bags made using these frames where a square piece of fabric is used and gathered over the frame.  However, I wanted a more fitted appearance so I made sure that the fabric was just the right size to fit the frame.  The great thing about this frame is that it can be unscrewed and used on another bag which makes it good value for money.

I made this using techniques from earlier projects.  For example, the channel which goes over the frame is the same as I would use for a flex frame.  Also, because the frame is hinged, it is similar to making a purse-style bag where you draw round the frame and then add some width at the hinge points so that the bottom of the frame is partially hidden in the finished bag. 

I didn’t add any pockets inside but it would be easy to add a phone or zip pocket. The handle has side rings for a chain or strap.  A narrow shoulder strap made of the patterned fabric/interfacing with swivel clasps at the end would work well. I just wanted this as a handbag so I didn’t bother.

You would need an 11”/28 cm strip of 2 different fabrics or 2 fat quarters, as well as interfacing and wadding.  I used a firm interfacing as I didn’t want the bag to be too floppy and a quilt batting as wadding.

The finished size (excluding the handles) is 9½”/24 cm wide, 8½”/21.5 cm high and 3”/7.5 cm deep at the base  

Skill level: Intermediate.  Although the sewing is straightforward, the pattern may need to be adapted to suit the size of your bag frame (they come in lots of different sizes). 

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) and ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Making darts

• Using a metal frame

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

11” x 6½”/28 x 16 cm Upper Bag Sides (cut 2 patterned fabric)

11” x 3½”/28 cm x 9 cm Lower Bag Sides (cut 2 plain fabric)

11” x 9¾”/28 cm x 25 cm Bag Sides (cut 2 wadding, 2 interfacing, 2 lining)

12” x 1½”/30.5 cm x 4 cm Frame Channel (cut 2 plain fabric, 

2 interfacing)

(This fits a 6”/15 cm wide metal arch frame)

Step 2: Creating the bag’s shape

Here is the 6”/15 cm metal arch frame bag pattern I made for the bag sides. It is too large to scan so I have taken a photo of it.

I marked the shape of the frame onto the paper (the dashes) and then pivoted the frame at one top corner so that the hinge swung out by about 1”/2.5 cm and marked where the hinge sat, then continued the line down.  I did the same for the other top corner of the frame.

Cut the lining, interfacing and wadding to shape – they are all the same size as the whole pattern.

To create the two tone outer bag, I drew a horizontal line across the pattern.  When I cut out the fabric for each part of the bag, I drew round the pattern up to the line and then added ¼”/6 mm for the seam allowance. I did this for the upper bag and also for the lower bag.

This technique can be used to create a pattern for any size frame.

Step 3: Making the bag sides

Sew one lower bag to one upper bag.  Do the same for the other lower and upper bag.  You now have the 2 outer bag sides.

Attach the wadding to the wrong side of the bag sides (I used fabric adhesive spray to stick mine).

With right sides together, make the darts.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining. 

Make darts in the lining.

Press the darts.

Step 4: Making the frame channels

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the frame channels.

With right sides together, sew the short ends together.  

Turn right sides out and press so that the seam is in the middle. Do this for both frame channels.

Step 5: Attaching the frame channel

Fold the frame channels so that the long raw edges meet. The seam needs to be facing away from the bag fabric so that it will not be visible when sewn up.

When the channel is folded up, the seam is inside
and so won't be visible on the finished bag.

Sew the frame channel to the top edge of the outer bag and the lining.  I found it easier to do this in 2 stages by sewing it first to the right side of the outer bag and then with right sides together, sewing it to the lining so that it is sandwiched between the right sides of the outer bag and lining.

Press.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Here, one dart faces down and the other
faces up to prevent too much bulk.

Pin the right sides of the outer bag together and do the same for the lining, matching the stitch line for the darts. Fold the darts so that one faces one way and one faces the other to reduce bulk and create a 'nesting' effect.

Make sure the hinge marks are clearly visible (mine aren't in the photo).

Sew from the hinge marks on one side of the outer bag, down towards the bottom of the bag and back up the other side of the outer bag, stopping at the other hinge mark.  Do not sew above the hinge mark at this stage.

Do the same for the lining, leaving a gap of about 4”/10 cm for turning at the base.

Now you need to create the purse-type opening.  Pull the channels out so that the lining/outer fabric meet, right sides still together.  Sew from the frame channel to the hinge mark, making sure not to sew over the frame channel (or you won’t be able to insert the bag handle). Do this at both ends of the frame channels on both sides of the bag.

It can be a bit tricky to get the join right between this stitching and the side seams, so turn it through and check that you are happy with it before finishing the bag.

Turn through and sew up the opening in the lining.  Press.

Slide the bag handles through the channels.  

Your bag is now finished just in time for the sales.  It won't carry all your bargains but you'll have something unique.

In this project I learnt:

• I have used darts in a previous bag.  They are easy to do and a simple way of creating that lovely curved shape at the base and sides.  I planned to use them more often but then completely forgot about them.  I’m so glad I finally remembered them!

• I haven’t used this style of metal frame before but it was certainly useful to have used flex and purse frames before because the top of this bag is a combination of the two. The contrasting frame channel worked really and fitted nicely.  I initially forgot about the opening and sewed all round the sides.  When I turned it through, I realised immediately that the only opening was between the channels at the top.  Not much point having a hinged opening if you’re going to sew it closed!  I had to unpick the stitches and instead of sewing outer fabric to outer fabric at the top of the bag, I sewed outer fabric to corresponding lining.  When I turned it through, it fitted the frame perfectly but I had a hole at each of the hinges where I hadn’t sewn right up to the side seam.  I had to turn it back and sew up the hole.  Hopefully I won’t make this mistake again.

• I don’t press my fabric enough and that’s why I forget to include it in the instructions.  This time I remembered! I’m sure the final bag is better for it.

Bag #50: Easy Quilted Envelope Bag

Last week I made a pattern for an envelope bag, but this is a much easier version.  I made mine out of quilting cotton and used a magnetic clasp to close it.  However, it could be made of any fabric and doesn’t need to be quilted.  Instead of a magnetic clasp, it could be closed with two pieces of ribbon or a loop of elastic on the flap and a button on the bag front. I put some knitting needles and yarn in the bag but it could be used for anything.  All you need is one fabric for the inside and one for the outside plus wadding/interfacing. I might make another one out of faux leather, adding a shoulder strap and without the quilting.

It is best to use non-directional fabric or either the bag or the flap will have an upside down pattern. 

This method could be used for any size envelope bag and takes hardly any time to make, especially if it is not quilted.  The finished size is 11½”/29 cm wide, 10”/25.5 cm high and ½”/12 mm deep.

You would need a fat quarter of each fabric to make this bag, as well as wadding (I used quilt batting which is nice and soft) and a medium weight interfacing. I used the mannequin fabric for the outside of the bag and the tape measure fabric for the lining.

Skill level: Easy, especially if the bag is not quilted and a button/elastic closure is used.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching and I used ¼”/6 mm seams.  However when sewing the final 2 seams to make the front of the envelope, I found that the seams were really thick, so I changed to a jeans needle and used a stitch length of 4, taking it very slowly.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Free motion embroidery

• Keeping it simple

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

18” x 18”/46 cm x 46 cm (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 lining, 1 medium weight interfacing, 1 wadding)

1 magnetic clasp (or other closure e.g. elastic and button)

Step 2: Attaching the magnetic clasp / other closure

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining. 

The thinner side of the magnetic fastener needs to be attached to the right side of the lining where it will end up on the inside of the flap. I placed it centrally with the middle of the fastener about 2”/5 cm from one of the corners.  

Here is a photo from a previous bag to show how the magnetic clasp
should look on the reverse side of the fabric -
I find that turning the legs out makes the clasp more stable

I used a small off cut of bag foam on the wrong side of the lining to give it extra stability.   Make 2 holes in the lining/interfacing and foam, push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the lining, through the foam and the washer and open them outwards to secure.

Attach the wadding to the wrong side of the outer fabric. I pinned mine.

Attach the thicker side of the fastener to the right side of the outer fabric.   I positioned mine about 2½”/6 cm from one of the corners.

Alternatively, for an easier option, attach a loop of elastic to one corner which will be the flap.  Make sure the loop faces inwards when you sew all the pieces together (below).  You can then sew a button onto the lower front when the bag is complete.

Step 3: Joining all the pieces

Place the lining and outer fabric, right sides together, and the two parts of the magnetic clasp at opposite corners. Sew all round, leaving a gap for turning near to the magnetic clasp which is on the outer fabric.

Trim the corners and cut the wadding back as close to the stitching as you can.

Turn through, pin the gap closed and press.  There is no need to sew up the gap at this stage.

Step 4: Quilting (optional)

The two parts of the clasp are on opposite corners.

Machine quilt through all layers of the fabric. You could sew horizontal and vertical rows using the general purpose foot and the feed dogs up, or you could put the feed dogs down, use an embroidery foot and do free motion embroidery.  I sewed random curves using free motion embroidery.

Step 5: Assembling the bag

The lining side is facing out.
The magnetic clasp on the outer fabric is on the inside in the top right hand corner.

With right sides (outer fabric) together, fold one of the sides so that the corner meet.  You need to match the corner with the magnetic clasp on the outer fabric with one of the corners with no clasp. The photos should make this clearer. Sew along this seam.

Do the same with the other corner which doesn’t have a clasp.  

Turn the bag right sides out.  Hey presto, it's finished!  Wasn't that easy?

In this project I learnt:

• I used free motion embroidery to quilt the bag. I’m getting better at it but my stitch length is still all over the place.  I really enjoy it and every time I do it, I have good intentions to practise more, but finding the time is so difficult.  When this year’s challenge is up and I stop making so many bags, it’s one of the things on my ‘to do’ list.

• It was fun to do an easy bag this week.  I couldn’t decide whether to quilt the outer fabric and then add the lining, but in the end I decided to join all the layers and then quilt it as that was simpler.  I was tempted to join some fabrics so that the front and back were different colours but I forced myself to keep it as simple as I could.  I’m glad I did because it still looks good.