Bag #20: Faux Leather Wrist Bag

I have wanted a wrist bag for some time now.  I like to have my hands free when I'm out, so I tend to use a shoulder bag but this is an alternative.  I made this light-coloured bag for summer to use by itself or to slip into a tote bag to keep my valuables secure.  It would also look good in a sparkly fabric for evening use. It is just large enough for my purse and phone.

This style is very adaptable.  It could easily be made slightly larger for someone who likes to carry more of their life around with them.

I really like to use metal hardware on a bag.  It prevents it from looking homemade and is easy to use as long as you have the correct tools.

I used a leather needle and clipped rather than pinned to avoid leaving visible holes in the fabric (although I pinned in the seam allowance where I could).  I had a small amount of upholstery faux leather  which is thicker than the type of leather which would normally be used for bag making. As it was quite thick, I increased my stitch length to 3 (3.5 for top stitching). 

The finished size is approximately 9½" x 5½".

I top stitched around the bag after finishing to emphasise the shape.  If using a thinner fabric, I think piping would look good to make the shape stand out.

Skills used in this project:

• Using faux leather

• Using eyelets

• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

10" x 6" faux leather outer bag (cut 2)

10" x 6" bag lining (cut 2)

2" x 19" faux leather strap (cut 1)

2" x 4" thin faux leather (or other suitable fabric) zip tabs  (cut 2)

7" x 5" internal pocket lining (cut 2)

7" x 5" lightweight internal pocket interfacing (cut 2)

7" x 3" lightweight interfacing for reinforcing internal zip

To create the bottom curves in the faux leather and lining, draw round a tea plate

You will also need:

10" N5 zip

7" N3 zip

Large eyelet (I used 14mm)

9 mm shank rivet

Step 2: Making the internal pocket

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of both internal pocket lining pieces.

Iron the 7" x 3" interfacing to the wrong side of one of the bag lining pieces.  The interfacing needs to be positioned centrally so that one 7" edge is resting against the top raw edge of the lining.

Pin one of the internal pocket linings onto the bag lining, right sides together with the top raw edges matching .   The pocket interfacing will be on top and the upper edges of the interfacing will match.

Using an erasable/soluble pen draw a rectangle onto the interfacing ½" x 5". I tend to use friction pens which disappear with the heat of an iron.  It should be 1" from each side of the interfacing and 1" from the top raw edge. 

Sew around this rectangle through the pocket lining, bag lining and both interfacings.

Draw a line along the centre of the rectangle and cut a slit in pocket lining and bag lining fabrics as shown in the photo, making sure not to cut the stitches. You will now have a slit like a letterbox.  Post the pocket lining through the letterbox and press flat.

Place the N3 zip on the pocket lining so that the right side shows through the letter box. The zip will be 1" longer at each end for ease of fitting.  Sew all round the zip, through the pocket lining, bag lining and interfacings.

Sew the other pocket lining to the one which has the zip in it around the sides and bottom, making sure not to sew the bag lining.

Sew both pocket pieces to the bag lining along the top edge. 

Step 3: Attaching the zip tabs for the outer zip

 

Fold zip tab half so that the short edges meet, ensuring that the wrong sides are together.

Fold each short edge under by ¼" and pin/clip.  Press if appropriate for the fabric you are using.

Place at tab at each end of the zip so that they fully cover the zip.  Sew across to secure. 

Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 4: Attaching the outer zip

 

Lay out one of the faux leather bag sides, right side up.  Lay the zip across the straight long side with the right side of the zip facing the faux leather. The edge of the zip should match the raw edge of the fabric.  Place the lining, right side down over the same side of the zip to form a 'zip sandwich'.  Clip together, then sew.

Do the same on the other side of the zip with the faux leather and the other lining piece.

Top stitch through all layers on both sides of the zip, close to the edge – this gives a professional appearance. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

Making sure that the zip is open, sew the two faux leather bag pieces together, right sides together.

Do the same for the lining pieces, but leave a 5" gap at the bottom for turning.

Clip around the curves or trim with pinking shears to ensure that the bag keeps its curvy shape.

Turn through and sew up the gap at the bottom of the lining by hand or machine. 

Top stitch on the outside of the bag from the zip, all the way round the curve and up to the other end of the zip to reinforce the bag's shape.

Step 6: Making the wrist strap

Fold the faux leather strap in half lenthways and then fold each side inwards so that it looks like bias binding.  Sew along the open edge.

 

Step 7: Adding the eyelet

Attach the eyelet to one of the top corners of the bag.  First make a hole through all layers of the fabric (kits come with the right size tool to do this), then position the top and bottom eyelet parts in place and secure by lightly hammering.

Step 8: Attaching the wrist strap

Thread the wrist strap through the eyelet and fold the other end of the strap so that they overlap by ½".  Secure both ends to the other side of the strap using a rivet.  First make a hole through all layers of the strap using a tailor's awl.  Place both parts of the rivet in place so that they meet and secure by lightly hammering.

 

Congratulation! Your bag is now finished. Fill it with only your absolute essentials, slip it over your wrist and use it when you have more important things to do with your hands than hold a bag. 

In this project I learnt:

• This faux leather was easy to sew with, but too thick to use for the zip tabs, as I learnt to my cost.  They just disappeared in a great mass of seams at the top corners.  I think they would work well using a faux leather meant for bag making.  If I used upholstery faux leather again, I would make the tabs out of cotton to give the bag a straighter, sharper to edge.

• Without top stitching around the bottom edge, the bag looked horrible and shapeless and I was very disappointed with the finished result.  I left it a few days and thought about what to do and then went back and top stitched all the way round.  This was just what was needed to give the bag definition.  I wish I had thought of it while making the bag as it would have been easier to do before the metal fittings were added. I am still very bad at top stitching around curves - I still get a wobbly irregular line no matter how hard I try.  I reduced my sewing machine's speed and took it really slowly but I think it might have been better if I had kept going rather than stopping and starting every few stitches.

• I have used eyelets and rivets in a couple of my other bags.  They are relatively straight forward to use but I find that each bag needs a different size or depth and I have to keep buying different ones.  It is fairly obvious what to do when attaching rivets but I always struggle with eyelets, never sure which way up each part goes.  I suppose the more I use them, the easier it will become.  I wasn't careful enough with these ones and banged a bit too hard leaving small dents.  I need to remember to use fabric, paper or card to protect the hardware as I was obviously a bit too rough!