Bag 25: Easy Peg Bag

I saw a peg bag like this on a recent shopping trip and immediately knew I could make it for a fraction of the price.  I’ve made a peg bag before but this is so simple and streamlined that I couldn’t resist it.  The PVC fabric can be wiped clean and the dowelling rod across the top helps the bag to keep its shape and bear the weight of the pegs.  I used a PVC with a polyester backing which is really only meant for something like table covering, but it had been in my stash for some time waiting for an opportunity in the limelight.  It won’t be as strong and durable as cotton backed PVC (which I would recommend you use) but the bag cost about £1.50 to make, so it was a bargain.  Unusually, I didn't neaten the seams inside the bag, but if you want to, please read right through to the end because you would need to do some of the steps in a different order.

You will need about half a metre/yard of PVC but it is not suitable for a directional fabric as either the back or front would end up with an upside down design.

The finished size is 10” high x  9¾” wide (25 cm x 24.5 cm).  The strap can be as long or short as you want it to be - measure before you cut it out. The joy of making your own bags is that you can make them the right size for you.  Before attaching the shoulder strap, drape a tape measure across your shoulder and body as if wearing a messenger bag and decide on the right strap length for you, then cut the strap to size. It’s almost couture!

I bought the dowelling from my local hobby store but DIY stores sell it too.

I used my general purpose foot and a woven fabric needle (although a leather needle works well on stronger cotton-backed PVC). The seams were sewn with my normal stitch length (2.5) but for the top stitching, I increased the stitch length to 3.

Using pins will leave visible holes in the fabric, so clips are essential instead.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC

• Keeping it simple

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut the following pieces from PVC (the 10½”/26.5 cm ends will be the top and bottom):

19” x 10½” (48 cm x 26.5 cm) Bag Body (Cut 1)

7” x 10½” (18 cm x 26.5 cm) Upper front bag (Cut 1)

4” x 50” (10 cm x 127 cm) Strap (Cut 1)

5/16” diameter x 9” (6 mm x 22.7 cm) wooden dowelling 

Step 2: Making the strap

Fold the strap in half lengthways and clip.  Fold the raw edges in towards the fold line so that it looks like bias binding.

Top stitch along both sides of the strap to create a professional finish.

Step 3: Neatening the raw edges

Hem one of the short 10½”/26.5 cm edges of the bag body by turning the edge under once and then again so that the raw edge is not visible.  Sew.

Hem one of the 10½”/26.5 cm of the upper front bag.  It is only necessary to turn this under once.  Sew.

Step 4: Attaching the strap

Position the strap on the right side of the bag body so that the raw edge at the end of the strap matches the raw edge at the top of the bag fabric  This will be one of the short edges of the bag body (10½”/26.5 cm) – the one without the hem. It should be about ¼”/6 mm from the side edge so that it will be right at the edge when the side seam will be sewn.  Sew across one end of the strap, close to the edge to attach the strap to the bag body.  Making sure that the strap is not twisted, sew the other end the same distance from the other side edge.

Place the upper front, right sides together, over the strap ends and bag body matching the top raw edge and sew along the side and top seams of the upper front.

Turn right sides out and top stitch around the upper front.

Step 5: Inserting the dowelling

Cut the dowelling to size and sand the ends to make sure that there are no sharp edges which will eventually make holes in the PVC.

Insert the dowelling between the upper front and the top of the bag body so that it is as close to the top seam as possible.  Sew a line of top stitching under the dowelling, as close to it as you can get, to keep it in place. Using a zip foot will enable you to get closer to the dowelling.

Sew along the bottom of the upper front to attach it firmly to the back of the bag body.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Fold the other short end of the bag body up so that the right sides are facing out and the hem is 2”/5 cm from the top. Fold the sides under by ¼”/6 mm.   Top stitch along these side seams.

Now fill your bag with pegs, fling it across your body messenger style and you will be able to hang out your washing with panache.

In this project I learnt:

• I love using PVC.  The matte versions (like this one) are easier to sew than the shiny ones which can stick to the sewing machine foot and needle plate. I bought a roller foot but haven’t needed to use it yet as my ordinary machine foot worked perfectly adequately. I’m much more confident than I first was when using this potentially difficult fabric and I’m always pleased with the results as it is so forgiving.

• This was a simple bag with just 2 pattern pieces for the bag and one for the strap. I didn’t line it or neaten the internal seams as the inside is barely visible (it’s the first bag I’ve made with un-neatened seams) and PVC doesn’t fray.  This was quick to make as I didn’t have to add a zip or hardware – the only thing that made it bit awkward was the wooden dowelling and that’s why I left it as late as possible before inserting it. If I was making it again, I’d use a better quality fabric, but that’s the only thing I would change. 

• If I decided to make this as a gift or to sell, I would neaten the seams. This would require a re-think of the order in which the bag is made. I couldn't sew the final seams from the wrong side of the PVC because the dowelling made it impossible to turn the fabric through.  Instead of inserting the dowelling early on, I would  leave a gap at the top of one side through which it could be inserted last of all.  Then I would be able to sew all the seams with the right sides of the fabric together (in the same order as above).  I would then sew binding over the raw edges to enclose them, turn the bag right sides out, slip in the dowelling and then sew up the small gap in the side seam.

Bag #24: Wash Bag

I absolutely love making PVC bags.  Although it can be tricky, it is my absolute favourite fabric.  I will be going away for several crafting weekends this summer and I need a wash bag.  A waterproof or water resistant fabric isn't essential but it makes it easier to keep the bag clean.  I wasn't sure whether to go for the budget option and use a bit of shower curtain for the lining (£3 for 180 cm x 180 cm) or go for luxury option and use PUL (£10 for 100 cm x 145 cm) as I had both.  The PVC I used was a really good quality one so I decided to use the PUL and was very pleased with the result - definitely worth the extra expense.  If anyone has tried using a piece of shower curtain as lining, I'd love to hear you comments about whether it was successful or not.

When using PVC, sewing needs to be accurate.  If you have to undo any stitching, you will be left with the needle holes.  For the same reason, I used clips rather than pins to hold the seams together when stitching.  The PVC looks really creased in the photo because I had just finished it but the creases had gone by the next day.

I chose not to use any interfacing/fleece/wadding for the bag body because the PVC was really robust and didn't need it.

For the zip tabs, I used a contrasting light cotton fabric.  It wasn't waterproof as that would have made the zip ends too bulky.

You will need a slightly more than a fat quarter of both PVC and lining, but if you only have a fat quarter, the pattern could easily be shrunk slightly and then it would fit.  The exact amount depends on whether you have a directional print - a 13" or 32 cm length would be plenty regardless of the direction of the print.  The finished size of the bag is 7" high x 8½" wide x 4" deep at the base (approx 16 cm x 21.5 cm x 10 cm).

The PUL was slightly stretchy and I had read that it would need a ball point needed but as I was sewing it in the same seam as the PVC, that wasn't realistic.  I used a normal machine needle for woven fabric and had no problems at all.  My normal stitch length (2.5) was used for the seams and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  My machine's general purpose foot managed easily and I didn't need a special foot. I used ¼" (6 mm) seams throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC

• Using waterproof lining

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

12½" (31.2 cm) across x 9½" (24.2 cm) for the height (Cut 2 PVC and 2 lining)

2" x 3" (5 cm x 7.5 cm) zip tabs (2 contrast fabric/ 2 iron-on light interfacing)

8½" (21 cm) zip (I used an N5 zip cut from a continuous roll)

Step 2: Making the zip tabs

Attach the interfacing to the wrong sides of the zip tabs.

Fold them in half so that the shorter sides meet, wrong sides together and press.  Fold each short end under by ¼" (6 mm) and press.  Place a tab over each end of the zip so that it is sandwiched between the folded over tab - the end of the zip should touch the fold line.  Sew across the open end of each tab to secure it to the zip.  Trim the sides of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 3: Inserting the zip

Place the lining fabric over the PVC, right sides together so that the top edges match.  Put the zip between the fabrics with the top side of the zip (the side with the slider) facing the PVC.  Sew along the top edge of the fabric using a zip foot to attach the zip.

Do the same for the other piece of lining and PVC.

Top stitch along each zip edge for a professional finish and to keep the lining and pvc firmly away from the edges of the zip so that they won't get caught in the zip.

Step 3: Assembling the bag

Spread out the fabric so that the two PVC bag pieces are placed right sides together and the two lining pieces are right sides together.

Open the zip so that you will be able to turn the bag right side out when it is finished.

Sew along the bottom and sides, leaving the corner cut outs unsewn and a 4" (10 cm) gap in the bottom of the lining for turning through. Sew the lining with fractionally larger seams to stop the lining being too baggy.

Flatten the corners and bring the side and bottom seams together so that the seams meet.  Sew across each corner.

Because I was using different colour thread for the lining and PVC, I found it quicker to sew the PVC sides, bottom and corners and then to do the same for the lining after I had changed the thread.

Carefully turn through so that the bag is the right way out.

Sew up the gap in the lining.

Time to go shopping and buy some lovely shiny new toiletries for your mini break.

In this project I learnt:

• I love using PVC but sometimes it can be hard to sew.  I always use cotton backed PVC but this was far better quality and much easier to sew than my normal PVC.  It shows that you really do get what you pay for.  I had no problem with it sticking or producing erratic stitch lengths as I have sometimes experienced in the past.  When I can afford it, I'm definitely going to buy the best PVC/oilcloth I can afford.

• I have never used waterproof lining before.  I bought some over a year ago and then completely forgot about it.  PUL has a knit effect on one side and a waterproof laminate on the other.  This makes it slightly stretchy.  I worried that it would snag when I used a machine needle for woven fabrics, but was fine.  Apparently you can seal the seams to make them waterproof but I'm not sure how.  The end result is really professional.  I can't wait to try it out and see how it performs in use.

Bag #23: Handy Scrap Bag

I really needed a bag to carry all my sewing essentials around the house.  The problem is that I don't have a sewing room.  My sewing machine is in the bedroom, the iron is on the landing and I cut out my fabrics downstairs in the lounge.  That means I am constantly carrying scissors, tape measure, marking pen, etc. up and downstairs from room to room.  This bag is just the right size to carry these and it has a comfortable strap which hangs across the body like a messenger bag.

Like most sewists, I never throw scrap fabric away because I know it will come in useful at some point in the future.  However, my scrap bag was becoming really full and it was time to start using it up.  What's nice about this bag is the fact that it's a constant reminder of other pleasurable projects; when I see the blue fabric I remember my patchwork quilt, the red fabric was used in a craft bag. It's also good to know that no one will have a bag the same as mine.  My fabrics were mostly quilting cotton but it would look great in a mix of fabrics to add texture.

It took ages to sew all the scraps together although I enjoyed doing it.  Crazy patchwork involves sewing around an uneven five sided shape.  There wasn't a centre shape here which was why I called it 'insane patchwork'.  It's just random fabrics joined together in any way that they would fit. The bag itself was quick to assemble.  It could have many uses, one of which would be as a money bag at craft fairs.   

I've done paper piecing once before and really enjoyed it, although it took a while to get my head round the fact that everything is back to front.

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 but increased it to 3 when assembling the bag.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Insane patchwork
• Paper piecing

Step 1: Assembling the resources

You will need the following:

9½" x 8½" (24cm x 21.5 cm) bag back (create 2 pieces of insane patchwork from scraps and cut 1 double sided fusible wadding)

7" x 8½" (18cm x 21.5cm) middle pocket (create 2 pieces of insane patchwork from scraps and cut 1 double sided fusible wadding)

4¾" x 4½" (12cm x 11.5cm) front pocket (create 2 paper pieced sections, cut 2 or create 2 for the backing and cut 1 double sided fusible wadding)

You will also need:

2" x 79" (5cm x 160cm) fabric for binding 

(if buying readymade binding, you will need 1" (2.5cm) width.  This does not need to be cut on the bias as all the edges are straight.

1" x 49"  (2.5cm x 125cm) webbing for strap (although check how long you would like the cross body strap to be)

Paper pattern for the paper piecing

Step 2: Making the insane patchwork fabric

The insane patchwork is created by joining lots of small pieces of fabric together in a random pattern.  Do this for both sides of the middle pocket and both sides of the back.

Take your first two fabric scraps, place them right sides together and sew along one side.  Press the seam open.  Trim the edge where you intend to join the next piece of fabric so that it forms a straight line.  Sew the next piece of fabric to one of the edges of your work, right sides together.  Keep adding more and more fabric until you have created a large enough piece of fabric.  Trim to size. 

As the piece of fabric grows larger, you will need larger pieces of fabric to sew along a whole edge.  To do this, join several pieces to make one larger piece, then join that to your existing patchwork.

Trim to size.

Step 3: Paper piecing

Paper piecing pattern

Using your paper pattern, sew scraps of fabric to the reverse side of the paper with wrong sides of the fabric against the paper. When all the sewing has been completed, gently tear the paper away from the wrong side of the fabric and you will be left with your pieced fabric image. The technique is the same for the tree and the house, or design your own pattern - anything with straight edges will work.

Sew the fabric to the paper in number order.

  

First of all, sew the tree trunk (piece 1) to one of the plain side pieces (piece 2).  Place the fabric right sides together on the back of the pattern and sew along the line of the side of the trunk through the paper and fabric.  Trim the seam so that it is no more than ¼"/6mm and press both fabrics flat with right sides facing away from the paper.Next, lay the other plain side piece over the tree trunk, right sides together and sew along the other side of the tree trunk.  Trim the seam and press.

    

Continue to add fabric in the order stated on the pattern until the image is complete, then tear the paper away (the stitches perforate the paper so it should come away fairly easily).

  

After sewing the paper pieced house, draw 4 windows and a door and sew around them either by hand or machine.  I used embroidery thread and sewed them by hand using backstitch. 

Trim them to size so that they measure 4¾ high" x 4½ (12cm x 11.5cm) across".  Join them together to create the front pocket by sewing them, right sides together down one of the slightly longer sides.

Step 4: Attaching the wadding

Place the wadding between the 2 front pocket pieces of fabric so that the right sides of the fabric are facing outwards.  Press.  If you do not have double-sided fusible wadding, you could use a fabric adhesive spray such as Stick and Stay with any low loft (thin) wadding or fleece.

Do the same for the middle pocket and also for the back.

Step 5: Making the binding

Using 2"/5cm strips of fabric, fold them in half lengthways to find the centre.  Fold the edges in so that it looks like bias binding and press.

Attach the binding to the top edge of the front pocket.

Do this by sewing the binding with the right side of the binding against the front of your pocket.  Match the raw edges and sew along the fold.  

     

Fold the binding over the edge of the fabric/wadding and hand sew it down on the other side so that it just covers the stitch line.

Do the same for the top edge of the middle pocket.

Trim any excess binding from the side edges.

Step 6: Assembling the pockets

Match the bottom raw edge of the front and middle pocket and sew down the centre to create 2 small pockets.

Sew around the side and bottom edges, very close to the edge to hold all the pieces firmly in place.

Step 7:  Attaching the binding around the outside edges

Pin the pockets to the back so that the bottom and sides meet.

Pin the binding to the front all the way round.  Fold the initial raw edge over so that it will be hidden when sewn in place. 

       

The corners can be mitred for a neat finish when sewing with one long strip of binding, or alternatively, 4 separate strips of binding can be sewn, one along each edge with ends turned under.  To achieve a mitred corner, stop sewing about ¼"/6mm before the end.  Turn the fabric slightly so that you finish stitching diagonally towards the corner.  Remove the fabric from the machine and re-position it so that you are ready to sew the next edge but start about ¼"/6mm in from the edge. The binding should be turned so that it forms a fold which runs parallel to the edge which has just been sewn. Do this for each corner. Turn the binding over the raw edge and hand sew it in place on the reverse as you did for the pockets.

Step 6: Attaching the strap

To attach the webbing, fold the end under by about 1"/2.5cm and place the webbing on the back of the bag so that the raw edge is hidden under the webbing.  Sew a 1"/2.5cm square to secure the strap.  Do the same for the other side, making sure that the webbing isn't twisted.

You now have a unique bag which cost virtually nothing to make!

In this project I learnt:

• I had fun building my insane patchwork fabric.  I had to keep trimming the shapes to ensure that I was working with straight lines.  Having a rotary cutter made this job so much quicker.  If I was making a quilt, I would sew the scraps to a piece of foundation fabric which would stabilise the individual pieces and prevent any twisting or puckering which can often happen when many of the edges are on the bias.  However, that wasn't really necessary for this bag as I wasn't after a particularly neat effect.

• I love the look of paper piecing.  It looks so complicated and clever and yet it's so easy to do.  I forgot to embroider the windows and door on the house and didn't remember until after I had attached the wadding.  This means that the back of the embroidery is visible in the pocket.  That wasn't what I wanted but no one's going to see it so it doesn't matter too much.