Bag #51: Metal Frame Bag

 

I wanted to use a metal frame this week and chose this metal arch frame which I bought in the summer at the Festival of Quilts. I have seen lots of simple bags made using these frames where a square piece of fabric is used and gathered over the frame.  However, I wanted a more fitted appearance so I made sure that the fabric was just the right size to fit the frame.  The great thing about this frame is that it can be unscrewed and used on another bag which makes it good value for money.

I made this using techniques from earlier projects.  For example, the channel which goes over the frame is the same as I would use for a flex frame.  Also, because the frame is hinged, it is similar to making a purse-style bag where you draw round the frame and then add some width at the hinge points so that the bottom of the frame is partially hidden in the finished bag. 

I didn’t add any pockets inside but it would be easy to add a phone or zip pocket. The handle has side rings for a chain or strap.  A narrow shoulder strap made of the patterned fabric/interfacing with swivel clasps at the end would work well. I just wanted this as a handbag so I didn’t bother.

You would need an 11”/28 cm strip of 2 different fabrics or 2 fat quarters, as well as interfacing and wadding.  I used a firm interfacing as I didn’t want the bag to be too floppy and a quilt batting as wadding.

The finished size (excluding the handles) is 9½”/24 cm wide, 8½”/21.5 cm high and 3”/7.5 cm deep at the base  

Skill level: Intermediate.  Although the sewing is straightforward, the pattern may need to be adapted to suit the size of your bag frame (they come in lots of different sizes). 

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) and ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Making darts

• Using a metal frame

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

11” x 6½”/28 x 16 cm Upper Bag Sides (cut 2 patterned fabric)

11” x 3½”/28 cm x 9 cm Lower Bag Sides (cut 2 plain fabric)

11” x 9¾”/28 cm x 25 cm Bag Sides (cut 2 wadding, 2 interfacing, 2 lining)

12” x 1½”/30.5 cm x 4 cm Frame Channel (cut 2 plain fabric, 

2 interfacing)

(This fits a 6”/15 cm wide metal arch frame)

Step 2: Creating the bag’s shape

Here is the 6”/15 cm metal arch frame bag pattern I made for the bag sides. It is too large to scan so I have taken a photo of it.

I marked the shape of the frame onto the paper (the dashes) and then pivoted the frame at one top corner so that the hinge swung out by about 1”/2.5 cm and marked where the hinge sat, then continued the line down.  I did the same for the other top corner of the frame.

Cut the lining, interfacing and wadding to shape – they are all the same size as the whole pattern.

To create the two tone outer bag, I drew a horizontal line across the pattern.  When I cut out the fabric for each part of the bag, I drew round the pattern up to the line and then added ¼”/6 mm for the seam allowance. I did this for the upper bag and also for the lower bag.

This technique can be used to create a pattern for any size frame.

Step 3: Making the bag sides

Sew one lower bag to one upper bag.  Do the same for the other lower and upper bag.  You now have the 2 outer bag sides.

Attach the wadding to the wrong side of the bag sides (I used fabric adhesive spray to stick mine).

With right sides together, make the darts.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining. 

Make darts in the lining.

Press the darts.

Step 4: Making the frame channels

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the frame channels.

With right sides together, sew the short ends together.  

Turn right sides out and press so that the seam is in the middle. Do this for both frame channels.

Step 5: Attaching the frame channel

Fold the frame channels so that the long raw edges meet. The seam needs to be facing away from the bag fabric so that it will not be visible when sewn up.

When the channel is folded up, the seam is inside
and so won't be visible on the finished bag.

Sew the frame channel to the top edge of the outer bag and the lining.  I found it easier to do this in 2 stages by sewing it first to the right side of the outer bag and then with right sides together, sewing it to the lining so that it is sandwiched between the right sides of the outer bag and lining.

Press.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Here, one dart faces down and the other
faces up to prevent too much bulk.

Pin the right sides of the outer bag together and do the same for the lining, matching the stitch line for the darts. Fold the darts so that one faces one way and one faces the other to reduce bulk and create a 'nesting' effect.

Make sure the hinge marks are clearly visible (mine aren't in the photo).

Sew from the hinge marks on one side of the outer bag, down towards the bottom of the bag and back up the other side of the outer bag, stopping at the other hinge mark.  Do not sew above the hinge mark at this stage.

Do the same for the lining, leaving a gap of about 4”/10 cm for turning at the base.

Now you need to create the purse-type opening.  Pull the channels out so that the lining/outer fabric meet, right sides still together.  Sew from the frame channel to the hinge mark, making sure not to sew over the frame channel (or you won’t be able to insert the bag handle). Do this at both ends of the frame channels on both sides of the bag.

It can be a bit tricky to get the join right between this stitching and the side seams, so turn it through and check that you are happy with it before finishing the bag.

Turn through and sew up the opening in the lining.  Press.

Slide the bag handles through the channels.  

Your bag is now finished just in time for the sales.  It won't carry all your bargains but you'll have something unique.

In this project I learnt:

• I have used darts in a previous bag.  They are easy to do and a simple way of creating that lovely curved shape at the base and sides.  I planned to use them more often but then completely forgot about them.  I’m so glad I finally remembered them!

• I haven’t used this style of metal frame before but it was certainly useful to have used flex and purse frames before because the top of this bag is a combination of the two. The contrasting frame channel worked really and fitted nicely.  I initially forgot about the opening and sewed all round the sides.  When I turned it through, I realised immediately that the only opening was between the channels at the top.  Not much point having a hinged opening if you’re going to sew it closed!  I had to unpick the stitches and instead of sewing outer fabric to outer fabric at the top of the bag, I sewed outer fabric to corresponding lining.  When I turned it through, it fitted the frame perfectly but I had a hole at each of the hinges where I hadn’t sewn right up to the side seam.  I had to turn it back and sew up the hole.  Hopefully I won’t make this mistake again.

• I don’t press my fabric enough and that’s why I forget to include it in the instructions.  This time I remembered! I’m sure the final bag is better for it.