Bag #45: Two Tone Zip Clutch Bag

I wanted a small clutch bag to slip into my tote bag when I go to work or shopping – no handles, no pockets and just big enough to hold my valuables – purse, phone, credit cards, keys. I used black and tan faux leather with a black zip and black/gold cotton lining.  A wrist strap or narrow shoulder strap could easily be added via side tabs.

This is lovely quality faux leather which I bought online from U-handbag earlier this year.  It is not too thick which makes it beautifully supple, but soft and durable.

To make this bag you would need 6”/15 cm strips of faux leather in two colours, fat quarter for lining, 9½”/24 cm strip of lightweight iron-on interfacing and wadding.  I used F220 interfacing and quilt batting.  

The finished size is approx 8”/20 cm wide, 8”/20 cm high and 1”/2.5 cm deep.

Skill level: Easy but some experience of using faux leather would be an advantage.

I increased my normal stitch length by varying amounts depending on the thickness of the seams.  It varied from 3.5 -5.  I used ½”/12mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using faux leather

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9½” x 6”/24 cm x 15 cm Upper bag sides (cut 2 faux leather)

9½” x 4”/24 cm x 10 cm Lower bag sides (cut 2 faux leather)

9½” x 9”/24 cm x 23 cm Inner bag (cut 2 cotton lining, 2 interfacing, 2 wadding)

3” x 2”/7.5 cm x 5 cm zip tabs (cut 2 cotton lining, 2 interfacing)

8½”/ 21.5 cm zip – I used an N5 zip cut from a continuous roll and added a gold slider

Step 2: Making the bag sides

Sew one lower bag side to one upper bag side along the long edge.  Avoid pinning because the pin marks will remain visible – instead it is better to use clips to hold the faux leather in place. I found that using a leather needle and a slightly longer stitch length than usual (3.5)

Do the same for the other lower and upper bag sides.

Fold the seam towards the upper bag and top stitch parallel to the seam to hold it firmly in place. I increased my stitch length to 4 for this top stitching.  Do this for both bag sides.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tabs.

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  

Wrap a tab around each end of the zip, overlapping the end of the zip by about ½”/12 mm and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Inserting the zip

Place one piece of wadding on the wrong side of one of the faux leather bag sides and clip to hold them together. 

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the bag linings.

With the faux leather and lining, right sides together, slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot and a long stitch as there are lots of layers to sew through (I set my stitch length at 4 here).

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Trim the fleece back close to the stitches to reduce bulk.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip. I increased my stitch length to 5 when top stitching parallel to the zip.

Step 5: Assembling the bag

Spread out the fabric so that the right sides of the faux leather bag sides are together and the lining pieces are also right sides together.  Sew all round, making sure that the seams match where you have changed from one colour faux leather to the other.  Leave a gap of about 5”/12.5 cm at the bottom of the lining for turning and ensure that the zip is left open.

Trim the fleece back as close to the stitches as possible to reduce bulk.

With right sides still together, squash each bottom corner of the bag and lining so that the centre of side seam matches the centre of the bottom seam.  Measure ½” from the corner, mark and sew across to create a slim base to the bag.  Do this for both outer and lining corners.

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining.

Your bag is now finished.  Put your valuables in it and head towards the nearest coffee shop to reward yourself.  I took mine to Costa and had a gingerbread latte and gingerbread muffin.  I definitely feel that Christmas is approaching when it’s gingerbread season.

In this project I learnt:

• I got on much better with the faux leather this time.  I read somewhere that you should increase your stitch length and it certainly worked. I didn’t need to use a special foot at all, even for the top stitching and the stitches were lovely and even. 

• The corners were an afterthought to give the bag a bit of depth because it looked a bit flat.  I think they really enhance the simple shape.  It was hard to match up the seams because I had to do it by feeling, but one side was perfect and the other was only a slightly out and I’m happy with that.

• I would like to add a tassel but I don’t have any gold tassel caps (to match the gold slider), so that will have to wait until later.  I was going to use a black slider and silver tassel cap but changed my mind at the last minute.  I have a scrap of the black faux leather left over which I shall keep somewhere safe until then.  To make a tassel, all you need to do is cut into the faux leather so that it looks like fringing, roll it up and glue it into a tassel cap (I did this with Bag 36, the faux leather fold over clutch, and it still looks great despite a lot of wear and tear).  I've ordered the tassel caps and when they arrive, I'll make the tassel and add a photo.