Bag #28: Daisy Bag

This week, I wanted to make a small bag for craft tools but it could just as easily be used as a pencil case (for small pencils!) or make up bag. It could easily be adapted for longer items e.g. knitting needles or paint brushes by changing the length but keeping the other dimensions the same.  Small bags have so many uses.

I have previously tried painting fabric using dots, but this time I used a paintbrush.  It was nothing like painting on a smooth surface but still relatively straightforward.  I chose a simple design from Folk It (their designs always look amazing and are easily achievable with a minimum of effort).  I used Deco Art So Soft fabric paint and practised on a scrap of the fabric before painting on the bag. 

I wanted the ends to be a triangular shape but without the effort of adding a triangular panel.  The shape comes from the inserts cut out of the bottom corners of the pattern. This method creates a less rigid shape which goes well with the denim look fabric I chose. 

Usually, when I design a pattern, I start off with the measurements I want for the finished bag and try to achieve them.  With this bag, I drew the pattern without measuring any of the dimensions and then, when I was happy with it, took the measurements.

The zip tabs give a professional finish to the bag and link the outer and lining fabrics.  The side tab is also made from the lining fabric. This tab can be used to clip tools or a charm to the bag or it could be used to clip the bag to a belt.  I like to include side tabs because they give more options for the ways in which a bag can be used.  I might clip it to my belt at craft fairs so that I have essential tools within my grasp at all times.

I used a fat quarter of the lining fabric and the outer fabric and had lots left.  Both of the fabrics I used were cotton.  I like the fact that this bag looks like denim without the effort of sewing a heavyweight fabric.

The finished size is approximately 7” (17.8cm) long x 3” (7.5 cm) high x 3” (7.5cm) wide.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching.  I used ¼”/ 6mm seams (slightly larger for the lining so that it fitted snugly).

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other. 

Skills used in this project:

• Fabric painting
• Creating shape

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

10¼” x 5⅛” (26 cm x 13 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer, 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing and cut to size using the PDF pattern)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

2” x 2” (5 cm x 5 cm) Side tab (cut 1 lining, 1 medium iron-on interfacing)

8”/20 cm Zip cut to size (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

1” / 25 mm split ring

Step 2: Painting the fabric

The fabric needs to be pre-washed (without using a softener such as Comfort as this prevents the paint from adhering to the fabric).  Fabrics vary, so try the paints you intend to use on a scrap of the outer fabric to practise your technique.  On paper I would have used one brush stroke for each petal, but the paint sank into the fabric and I needed lots of smaller brush strokes.  I used 2 coats of the white paint to make it stand out.  I painted the fabric before making the bag as it was easier to paint onto a flat surface.  Of course, then I had to wait for the paint to dry before making the bag.  Overnight was sufficient drying time.  Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to make the paint permanent.  I always leave 72 hours and then wash the fabric at a low temperature.  The paint is beautifully soft after washing.

Step 3: Making and attaching the zip tabs

 Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tabs.

Fold the zip tabs in half so that the 2”/5 cm ends meet and press.  Turn the raw edges parallel to the fold under by ¼”/6 mm and press. Fold them over each end of the zip, with the zip end up against the fold, and sew across the zip to attach them.  Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Inserting the zip

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer bag body fabric.

Place one outer bag body and one lining fabric, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot.

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 5: Making and attaching the split ring tab

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the fabric in half and press.  Then fold the raw edges at the sides in by ¼”/ 6 mm.  Top stitch down both sides. Press.

Fold the tab in half so that the short ends meet, insert the split ring and sew it to one edge of the bag (it doesn’t matter which side or whether you attach it to the front or the back).    

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Partly open the zip so that you can turn the bag through to the right side after sewing.

Pin the bag so that the right sides of the outer fabric meet and the right sides of the lining meet.  Sew along the side and bottom seams, leaving at gap of about 4” / 10 cm along the bottom seam of the lining for turning and also leaving the corner cut outs. Make the seams around the lining slightly wider so that the lining fits neatly inside the bag.  Press the seams open.

With the right sides still together, flatten the corners so that each side seam meets the bottom seam to form a straight line. Do this for the outer fabric and lining corners.  Sew. 

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine.

 

Fill the bag and start using it straight away.

In this project I learnt:

• Fabric painting, even for someone who can’t paint, is easy if you choose a simple design and practise it first.  I have learnt that painting on fabric is not the same as painting on paper.  Actually, fabric is more forgiving because mistakes don’t show up as much; the paint is quickly disappears into the fabric so minor errors can be painted over.  This daisy looks better on fabric than when I paint it on cards.

• If I wanted a sharp shape, I would definitely use panels at the ends, but this denim lends itself to a more ‘slouchy’ shape. A few months ago, I wouldn’t have known the difference or been able to design both types.  I’m definitely learning so much in this project and loving every minute of it.