Bag #26: Mini Flex Frame Bag

This flex frame bag is a quick and easy make. I have made a flex frame bag before but it was some time ago and I couldn’t really remember how, so this proved a good challenge to refresh my memory.  A flex frame is a really handy closure because I always get nervous about inserting anything where I have to make holes in the fabric in case I mess it up and ruin the bag.  That’s not a problem here because the sewing is all done and then the frame is pushed through the channels and secured at the other end.

I like making small bags like this to practise a technique because if I don’t like it or it goes wrong, I haven’t wasted a fortune on fabric. It is economical as well as enjoyable – what’s not to love?

I used three different fabrics; two of them (the outer bag and lining) were 14 cm wide and the third (plain fabric for the frame channel) was 5 cm wide, as well as a medium iron-on interfacing, also 14 cm wide. I used quilting cottons from a fat quarter bundle so that the lining co-ordinated with the outer fabric.

Flex frames are not always easy to find, but are readily available on the internet.  They  

come in various sizes, so it is a good idea to check when sewing that the frame will fit comfortably but snuggle inside the channels.  A slight adjustment of the seam allowance is all that would be needed.

The finished bag measures  3⅜” / 8.5 cm high, 4⅜” / 11 cm wide and 2⅜” / 6 cm deep.

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 and ¼”/6 mm seams throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so it is advisable to stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using a flex frame

• Using darts to create shape

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

2” x 6¾” / 5 cm x 17 cm frame channel (cut 2 in plain fabric, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

4½” x 5 ⅝” / 11.5 cm x 14 cm bag body (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 lining fabric and 2 medium iron-on interfacing). If using a directional patterned fabric, the longer edges will form the top and bottom of the bag, so the pattern should be cut accordingly.

3¼”/ 8 cm Flex frame

Step 2: Preparation

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of each outer bag body and each plain frame channel.

Cut the rectangles of fabric to size using the guide in the photo or the PDF pattern.

Step 3: Make the frame channel

Take one of the frame channel pieces and fold it in half, right sides together, so that the short edges meet.  Sew the short edges together and press the seam open.  

Turn the fabric so that the right side is facing out and the seam you have just sewn is in the centre. Press.  

Fold in half so that the raw edges meet (see step 5 photo).  Sew them together close to the raw edges. Press.

Do the same for the other frame channel.

Step 4: Make the darts

Make the darts in one of the lining bag body pieces by matching the long edges of one of the triangle cut outs, right sides together, and sewing these edges together.  This will give the bag its curved shape. Press in towards the centre.

Do the same for each dart in both the lining and outer body fabrics.  

Step 5: Attaching the frame channel

  

Place one frame channel over one outer bag body so that the raw edges of the channel are in the centre of the top raw edge of the bag body. The depth of flex frames varies, so it is a good idea to push the flex frame through the channel at this point to work out how much room it needs and adjust the seam allowance accordingly.  Take out the flex frame when sewing.  Sew along the top seam to join them.  Press.

Place one of the lining pieces over the frame channel and outer body, right sides of bag body facing each other, and sew along the top seam.  This will form a sandwich with the outer fabric at the bottom, frame channel in the middle and lining on top.  Press

Do the same for the other frame channel, outer and lining.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Flatten out the bag pieces and place them right sides together with the outer body fabrics matched up and the lining pieces.  The frame channels will face inwards.  Sew all round the outer edge, matching up the darts and leaving a gap for turning between the darts at the bottom of the lining.   Use a slightly bigger seam allowance for the lining so that it fits snugly inside the bag. Make sure that you do not sew over the frame channel.

Turn through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine. Press.

Step 7: Inserting the flex frame

The sewing is finished but the flex frame needs to be attached.  Insert one side of the flex frame through the channel on one side of the bag and the other side of the flex frame through the other channel on the other side of the bag. There will be a small extra flap of metal at one end – this should be on the bottom of the frame so that it is less visible. Once the frame is in place, hold the open end edges together and insert the pin, bend the metal tab up to hold the pin in place (I use the side of a pair of scissors to do this, but any strong solid object would do).

I’m not sure what to use this bag for, but it’s a handy size for make-up, sewing bits and could double up as purse too.

In this project I learnt:

• This bag was very quick to make.  I made the pattern during the week and then cut out and made up the bag while watching Wimbledon tennis on the television.  Every time the players sat down, I rushed upstairs to do a bit more sewing or take a photo and it was almost finished by the end of the match.

• Using a flex frame is really straight forward.  The only tricky bit is making sure that the channels are deep enough for the frame to go through – they need to be snug but not baggy.  As these frames have slightly bigger ends, it’s not just the body of the frame which has to fit through but also the ends. When I attached the first one, it wasn’t snug enough, so I increased the seam allowance slightly and it fitted beautifully.

• I have used darts in the distant past when dressmaking but never on a bag.  I don’t know why I haven’t used them before because they are a simple way of creating a more rounded shape.  I shall certainly use them again in future bags.

• I’ve just realised that I haven’t mentioned pressing much in my last few bags.  Obviously, it won’t apply when sewing fabrics like PVC, but when sewing cotton, I get a much better end result if I press after every stage.  I do it automatically and often forget to include it in the instructions, but I really think it results in a more accurate and professional finish.  I must remember to include it in future!