Bag #33: Reversible Bag

 

This bag is two bags in one.  The inside and outside are made in exactly the same way, just using different fabrics to give a different look.  I used co-ordinating fabrics, but it would also work well with opposing fabrics.

I wanted an internal pocket for keeping valuables secure.  As the inside and outside are the same, there is one pocket on the inside and one on the outside.  I also wanted some kind of closing to hold the sides of the bag together.  A zip or magnetic clasp wouldn’t be suitable because they would only work from one side, so a button seemed the best option.

I like long handles so my bags become shoulder bags but you can make the straps any length you like.

The finished size is approximately 15”/38 cm wide, 12”/30 cm high and 6“/15 cm deep.

To make this bag you will need approximately ½ yard/ metre of each fabric, including the interfacing) which will leave a bit of each left over, perhaps for a matching purse?  The outer fabrics were quilting cottons and I used medium weight interfacing and quilt wadding behind the scenes. The interfacing and wadding were from my stash and not fusible, so I used a spray adhesive to attach them to the fabric.  You would only need about 12”/30 cm of the wadding. 

I used ¼”/6mm seams and my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching.

Difficulty level: Easy – suitable for someone with basic sewing skills and able to use a sewing machine.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Making buttonholes

Step 1: Cutting out

My little helper

 Cut out the following:

16” x 11” (40.5 cm x 28 cm) Side Panel (cut 2 fabric A, 2 fabric B, 2 wadding)

16” x 3” (40.5 cm x 7.5 cm)  Top Panel (cut 4 plain fabric, 4 interfacing)

8” x 6” (20 cm x 15 cm) Bottom (cut 1 fabric A, 1 fabric B, 1 wadding) – round off the corners to make an oval.  Alternatively, cut 2 plain fabric.

28” x 4” (71 cm x 10 cm) Handles (cut 2 plain fabric, 2 interfacing)

13” x 6 ½” (33 cm x 16.5 cm) Pocket (cut 2 plain fabric, 2 interfacing)

5¼” x 6 ½” (13 cm x 16.5 cm) Pocket flap (cut 1 fabric A, 1 fabric B, 2 interfacing) – round off the corners to make an oval.

8” x 8” (20 cm x 20 cm) Side Panel stabiliser (cut 1 interfacing)

Approximately 10”/ 20 cm Elastic cord (depending on size of buttons used)

3 medium sized buttons (mine were about 1”/2.5 cm diameter)

Step 2: Attaching the side and top panels

Attach wadding to the wrong side of both fabric A side panel pieces.

Attach interfacing to wrong side of all top panel pieces.

With right sides together sew a top panel to each side panel along one of the long edges.  If using a directional fabric, this will be the top edge. Press the seam towards the top panel.

Top stitch just above the stitch line to hold the fabrics firmly in place and give a professional finish.

Step 3: Making the pockets

Attach interfacing to the wrong side of both pocket pieces and both flap pieces.

Fold the pocket pieces along the centre so that the shorter sides meet with the wrong side (interfacing side) facing out.  Sew around the raw edges leaving a gap along the short edge for turning. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch along the short edge, closing the gap as you sew.

Position a pocket piece centrally about 2”/5 cm from the bottom on the right side of one of the fabric A side panels and the other on the right side of a fabric B side panel.  The top stitched seam needs to be at the top.  Sew around the sides and bottom of the pocket to attach it to the bag.  

When joining the pocket to fabric B, first add the piece of interfacing on the wrong side in the same position as the pocket to strengthen the fabric.

Do the same for the flap.  Fold each flap in half so that the longer sides meet, wrong side facing out.  Sew along the raw edges leaving a gap for turning. Clip the curves to make sure they lay flat when turned through (I just trimmed them with pinking shears).  Turn right sides out.  Press.  Top stitch around the entire seam, closing the gap as you sew.

           

Sew a buttonhole centrally on each pocket flap.  If you aren’t confident with buttonholes, they aren’t essential.  You could leave it plain or use Velcro instead.

Position the flap just above the pocket using the fabric A flap on the fabric B bag and vice versa.  Sew along the straight edge of the flap to attach it to the bag.  Do this for both pockets.

Sew a button to each of the pockets.

Step 4: Creating the bag shape

Sew both fabric A side panels together along the side seams, right sides together. Do the same for fabric B.

Gather the bottom edge of the side panels and pin to the matching bottom.  I found it easiest to mark the quarter points on both the side panels and bottom so that these cold be matched up to ensure even gathering. The sides with no backing were gathered using my machine’s longest stitch and pulling on either end to gather.  The fabric with the wadding for backing was gathered using hand stitching because, due to the thickness, it needed longer stitches than my machine was able to do. Pin to hold in place. Sew.

Step 5: Making the handles

    

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each handle fabric.  Fold in half lengthways and press.  Fold the long raw edges in towards the centrefold so that it looks like bias binding and then press closed all the way along the centrefold.

Top stitch along the open side to close it.

Top stitch along the fold side for a professional finish.

Photo shows steps 5 and 6

Fix the handles to the bag by pinning the ends approximately 4”/10 cm from each side seam on the right side of the fabric, making sure that they are not twisted.  They should be facing hanging down towards the bottom of the bag with the raw edges sticking up above the top edge of the bag with the ends of the handles sticking up by at least ½”/ 12 mm. Pin one handle to one side of the fabric A bag and the other handle to the opposite side of the fabric A bag.

Step 6: Attaching the closing button

Cut a 5”/13 cm piece of elastic cord and attach it to the centre top of the fabric A bag between the strap ends on one side.  It should be sewn to the right side of the fabric with the raw ends of the cord sticking up as shown in the photo.

Thread a piece of elastic cord through the holes in the button and attach it to the top edge between the other strap ends in the same way.

Step 7: Assembling the bag

Place fabric bags A and B right sides together so that one bag is over the other with the straps and elastic closure pushed down between them. The pockets should be on opposite sides to prevent too much bulk on one side of the bag. Sew  around the top edges to join them together leaving a gap at one side for turning.  Turn through. Press.

Top stitch all the way round.  This will also close the gap left for turning.

Top stitch a second row of stitches just below the first row.  This will secure the ends of the straps and give a professional finish.

 

You can now choose which side you want on the outside today.  Tomorrow, if you reverse the bag, it will look as though you have a completely different bag.

In this project I learnt:

• Buttonholes are fairly straightforward.  You just have to make sure you understand how they work on your sewing machine and practise.  Many years ago, I used to make some of my own clothes.  My old sewing machine had one buttonhole stitch which was basic but simple to use. I have never used the buttonhole on my current machine. I had a choice of 15 buttonhole stitches, so I tried out a few and chose one with curved ends.  The buttonhole foot was quite tricky to get right because several bits had to be in the right place for it to work.  Once I had got to grips with that, the machine did all the work. The buttonhole on the first flap went really well, but I didn’t measure the second carefully enough and it was slightly off centre. Next time I need to measure the position more accurately. I’m glad I forced myself to use the buttonhole function.  Now I know how to use it, I’m sure I’ll use it in other projects.

• I enjoyed designing and making this bag.  It turned out exactly as I had hoped and was easy to make.  I could have been more adventurous with the fabric but I like the idea of reverse colours in a reverse bag.  Perhaps the bottom of the bag would have been better in black rather than patterned.  It probably didn’t make any difference because the bottom is barely visible.

• My photos never do justice to the bags.  This bag has a nice shape and is very comfortable to use.  There’s nothing wrong with my camera – it’s just my lack of skill and poor lighting.  Definitely something to work on!