Bag #24: Wash Bag

I absolutely love making PVC bags.  Although it can be tricky, it is my absolute favourite fabric.  I will be going away for several crafting weekends this summer and I need a wash bag.  A waterproof or water resistant fabric isn't essential but it makes it easier to keep the bag clean.  I wasn't sure whether to go for the budget option and use a bit of shower curtain for the lining (£3 for 180 cm x 180 cm) or go for luxury option and use PUL (£10 for 100 cm x 145 cm) as I had both.  The PVC I used was a really good quality one so I decided to use the PUL and was very pleased with the result - definitely worth the extra expense.  If anyone has tried using a piece of shower curtain as lining, I'd love to hear you comments about whether it was successful or not.

When using PVC, sewing needs to be accurate.  If you have to undo any stitching, you will be left with the needle holes.  For the same reason, I used clips rather than pins to hold the seams together when stitching.  The PVC looks really creased in the photo because I had just finished it but the creases had gone by the next day.

I chose not to use any interfacing/fleece/wadding for the bag body because the PVC was really robust and didn't need it.

For the zip tabs, I used a contrasting light cotton fabric.  It wasn't waterproof as that would have made the zip ends too bulky.

You will need a slightly more than a fat quarter of both PVC and lining, but if you only have a fat quarter, the pattern could easily be shrunk slightly and then it would fit.  The exact amount depends on whether you have a directional print - a 13" or 32 cm length would be plenty regardless of the direction of the print.  The finished size of the bag is 7" high x 8½" wide x 4" deep at the base (approx 16 cm x 21.5 cm x 10 cm).

The PUL was slightly stretchy and I had read that it would need a ball point needed but as I was sewing it in the same seam as the PVC, that wasn't realistic.  I used a normal machine needle for woven fabric and had no problems at all.  My normal stitch length (2.5) was used for the seams and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  My machine's general purpose foot managed easily and I didn't need a special foot. I used ¼" (6 mm) seams throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC

• Using waterproof lining

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

12½" (31.2 cm) across x 9½" (24.2 cm) for the height (Cut 2 PVC and 2 lining)

2" x 3" (5 cm x 7.5 cm) zip tabs (2 contrast fabric/ 2 iron-on light interfacing)

8½" (21 cm) zip (I used an N5 zip cut from a continuous roll)

Step 2: Making the zip tabs

Attach the interfacing to the wrong sides of the zip tabs.

Fold them in half so that the shorter sides meet, wrong sides together and press.  Fold each short end under by ¼" (6 mm) and press.  Place a tab over each end of the zip so that it is sandwiched between the folded over tab - the end of the zip should touch the fold line.  Sew across the open end of each tab to secure it to the zip.  Trim the sides of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 3: Inserting the zip

Place the lining fabric over the PVC, right sides together so that the top edges match.  Put the zip between the fabrics with the top side of the zip (the side with the slider) facing the PVC.  Sew along the top edge of the fabric using a zip foot to attach the zip.

Do the same for the other piece of lining and PVC.

Top stitch along each zip edge for a professional finish and to keep the lining and pvc firmly away from the edges of the zip so that they won't get caught in the zip.

Step 3: Assembling the bag

Spread out the fabric so that the two PVC bag pieces are placed right sides together and the two lining pieces are right sides together.

Open the zip so that you will be able to turn the bag right side out when it is finished.

Sew along the bottom and sides, leaving the corner cut outs unsewn and a 4" (10 cm) gap in the bottom of the lining for turning through. Sew the lining with fractionally larger seams to stop the lining being too baggy.

Flatten the corners and bring the side and bottom seams together so that the seams meet.  Sew across each corner.

Because I was using different colour thread for the lining and PVC, I found it quicker to sew the PVC sides, bottom and corners and then to do the same for the lining after I had changed the thread.

Carefully turn through so that the bag is the right way out.

Sew up the gap in the lining.

Time to go shopping and buy some lovely shiny new toiletries for your mini break.

In this project I learnt:

• I love using PVC but sometimes it can be hard to sew.  I always use cotton backed PVC but this was far better quality and much easier to sew than my normal PVC.  It shows that you really do get what you pay for.  I had no problem with it sticking or producing erratic stitch lengths as I have sometimes experienced in the past.  When I can afford it, I'm definitely going to buy the best PVC/oilcloth I can afford.

• I have never used waterproof lining before.  I bought some over a year ago and then completely forgot about it.  PUL has a knit effect on one side and a waterproof laminate on the other.  This makes it slightly stretchy.  I worried that it would snag when I used a machine needle for woven fabrics, but was fine.  Apparently you can seal the seams to make them waterproof but I'm not sure how.  The end result is really professional.  I can't wait to try it out and see how it performs in use.