Bag #38: Painted Tote Pouch

This week’s bag is a pouch to hold all those calico bags we need to carry around to avoid having to pay 5p for a plastic bag.  It is made entirely from heavy calico with no interfacing or lining but has French seams as I hate seeing raw edges. The strap could be attached to the pouch, but I chose to make a detachable strap.  The strap could be any width of your choosing to match your hardware.  I chose to make mine ½”/12 mm wide.

I attended the Crafting at Ally Pally event in London last weekend and was lucky enough to see a demonstration and do a ‘make and take’ at Pink Ink Designs.  I was shown how to use fabric paints like water colours so that the colours merge into each other. You can see them teaching this technique from time to time on Hochanda, a UK TV craft channel. Coincidentally, I also recently found out that rubber stamps can be used for stamping on fabric if using a suitable ink.  I decided to put the two together and make a bag which could have an image stamped on it and then coloured in with fabric paint.  This also taps into the current trend of adult colouring in, but is a little more sophisticated.  I chose a selection of my existing rubber stamps.  I used Deco Art So Soft matt fabric paints and a Tulip pearl pink which I already had.  Pink Ink introduced me to Cosmic Shimmer lustre fabric paints which contain mica and are super sparkly.  I bought the turquoise (actually called 'sea green') at Ally Pally and the silver glitter which I brushed liberally over the matt paints. 

I chose to paint both sides of the pouch, but if you were short of time you could just paint one side.

I love the look of the image on this bag.  For the first 24 hours after making it, I wouldn’t let it out of my sight, I was so proud of it.

The finished size is 9”x 7½” (23 cm x 19 cm).

You need a 9”/23 cm strip of calico for this project.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching and used ¼”/6mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using rubber stamps on fabric
• Painting on fabric
• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following from the calico:

11” x 9” (28 cm x 23 cm) Bag sides (cut 2)

3” x 2“  (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip Tabs and D ring tab (cut 3)

12” x 2” (30 cm x 5 cm) Strap (cut 1)

9” /23 cm zip

½”/12 mm D ring

Swivel clasp (same size as D ring)

Rivet (optional)

Rubber Stamps

Ink Pad suitable for stamping on fabric (I used Versacraft)

Fabric Paint

Step 2: Painting the bag

Wash the calico first as fabric paints adhere better to fabric which has been washed.

Stamp the design onto the calico and heat seal by ironing with a cloth between the iron and fabric to protect the design (I use a man's handkerchief).

Paint using fabric paints.  Follow instructions on paint bottles to make permanent.

Assemble the bag when the paint is dry.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs and inserting the zip

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  Wrap a tab around each end of the zip overlapping the zip by about ¼”/ 6 mm and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Place the top edge of one bag side against one edge of the zip, right sides together as shown in the photo. The zip and tabs will be slightly shorter than the width of the bag.  Make sure the zip is positioned centrally. Sew using a zip foot.

Sew the other bag side to the other edge of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 4: Make and attach the D ring tab

(I made the D ring tab and strap at the same time because they use the same technique although the finishing is slightly different).

Fold the fabric in half lengthways to find the centre and press.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line and press.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half along the original fold, press again and top stitch close to the edge along each long side.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Fold in half over a D ring so that raw edges meet.

Sew to right side of the fabric at one edge as shown in photo.  The tab should be quite long at this stage because the bag will be sewn using French seams which means that they will be double their normal width. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

With the zip open and the 2 bag sides wrong sides together, sew all round.  Start at the zip and sew down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, ending at the zip. You need to keep these seams quite narrow.

Now turn the bag wrong side out and sew the same seams, this time encasing the raw edges.  If necessary trim the edges and D ring tab to make sure that they will be within the seam allowance (you don’t want any raw edges showing).

Turn right side out and press.

Step 6: Making the strap

Make the strap in the same way you made the D ring tab, but make sure the raw edges at the ends are folded inside the strap before sewing it.

The end of the strap needs to be secured to one end of the clasp. This can be done by sewing it or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because they are super sturdy.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers of the strap (see photo to see where it should be positioned).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through all layers.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

Now fill your pouch with some of those pesky shopping bags and you will never forget them again.  I feel another shopping trip coming on!

In this project I learnt:

• It was surprisingly easy to use rubber stamps on fabric.  I used a scrap of calico to practise on first of all.  It was the first time I had used Versacraft ink which gave a lovely bold outline.  I heat set it by ironing it and the colour didn’t run when I added paints, even when I added lots of water.

• It was fun trying out the different paints.  I love the Cosmic Shimmer paint; it was so sparkly that it really lifted the image.  I didn’t have a brown paint for the hedgehogs, so I just mixed all the matt colours until I got something resembling a dirty brown.  I used the watercolour technique for the hedgehogs and grass by painting part of it and then pulling the colour with water onto neighbouring parts of the image for a much paler version of the colour. It took a long time to paint both sides of the bag but it was a lot of fun and I can’t stop admiring the end result.  Definitely worth all the time spent on it.  Now I keep wondering what to paint next. 

• I find rivets easier to fix each time I use them. I like knowing that the strap is really firmly fixed and won’t come undone.  It also gives a professional finish to the bag.

Bag #29: Half Moon Bag

When I was a student I had a half moon bag which was my favourite bag.  I loved it.  It was just big enough for my purse and camera.  I didn’t need anything else.  This was before the days of mobile phones.  Long before!  The zip on my current handbag broke this week and I have been thinking about what type of bag would be good for summer without being too ‘beachy’ but still casual.  I decided to go for a denim half moon bag, although it’s bigger than the one I had in my student days because I have more to carry around.

I used the same fabrics that I used in last week’s zip-up bag, but with the addition of a contrast fabric for the flap and strap.  I don’t usually make 2 bags of the same fabric unless they are meant to co-ordinate, but I like these so why not. These are all cottons - denim for the outer fabric, paisley for the lining and birds for the contrast. I used bag foam which gives the bag a defined shape but it’s a lot for a machine to sew through.  However, you could use fleece or wadding which would be easier to sew through and create a softer, slouchier bag.

The finished size is 8” (20 cm) across, 7” (17.5 cm) high and 2” (5 cm) deep.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3.5 for top stitching.  I used ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

For this bag, the measurements are approximate because the size of the plate used to create the half moon shape will affect the length of the side panel.  If in doubt, cut slightly longer and trim to size later on.  Also the length of the strap depends on your personal preference.  I like a long strap to wear across the body but I this may be too long for some people. It’s easy to adjust the length – I’ll tell you how and when to do this.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.  

Skills used in this project:

• Using a range of stabilisers to create shape

• Using hardware

 

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

NB: if you have a directional print, the 9”/23 cm side goes across the bag and the shorter side goes up.

9” x 7” (23 x 18 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 lining, 2 foam/wadding)

19” x 2½” (48 cm x 6.5 cm) Side Panel (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding) – see step 1 before cutting this out

9” x 11” (23 cm x 27.5 cm) Internal pocket/divider (cut 1 lining, 1 medium weight interfacing)

9” x 8” (23 cm x 20 cm) Flap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding)

4” x 53” (10 cm x 134 cm) Strap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 medium weight interfacing) - 2 shorter fabrics can be joined - see step 6

1 Magnetic fastener (mine was ¾”/18 mm)

2 rivets (mine were approx 5/16” / 8mm with a short shank) (optional)

1”/2.5 cm length of sew in Velcro (optional)

Step 2: Making the half moon shape

The bag body and flap pieces need to be shaped.  I used a large tea plate to shape the 2 bottom corners to give the bag its half moon shape.  Measure the length of the curved side and adjust the side panel length accordingly as plate sizes vary.  If in doubt, make it slightly longer and cut to size (as I did).

Step 3: Making the outer bag

Attach the foam or wadding to the wrong side of the outer fabric bag body and side panels (by pinning, ironing or gluing depending on the materials used).  I used sew in bag foam with spray on fabric adhesive.

Pin the outer fabric side panel to the curved side of one of the outer fabric bag body pieces, right sides together.  Using lots of pins ensures that the curve is sewn accurately.  I always start by finding the centre of the seam and pin from there in each direction.

Sew the other outer fabric bag body to the opposite edge of the side panel, right sides together. 

Trim the foam close to the stitch line.  I found it was easiest just to cut round the curve with pinking shears.

Top stitch along the edge of both curved seams (back and front), through the bag body and side panel.  This will help the bag to keep its shape. I pinned around the seam to try to keep the line even but it was still a bit wobbly - I'm not very good at sewing curves!

Step 4: Attaching the magnetic fastener

I added the fastener after joining the lining to the
 contrast fabric, but it is easier to do it before.

The thinner side of the magnetic fastener needs to be attached to the lining of the flap. I placed it centrally with the middle of the fastener about 1¼”/3 cm  from the bottom edge of the curve.  I used a small off cut of bag foam  on the wrong side of the lining to give it extra stability.   To attach the fastener, make 2 holes in the lining and foam, push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the lining, through the foam and the washer and open them outwards to secure.

Attach the thicker side of the fastener to the right side of one of the bag body pieces.  I positioned mine about 3”/ 7.5 cm from the bottom of the curve which gives a very loose fit to the flap; 2”/ 5 cm would be a tighter fit.  

Step 5: Making the flap

Attach the foam/wadding to the wrong side of the contrast flap fabric.

Sew the lining flap to the contrast flap, right sides together, along the curved edge. Trim foam close to the stitch line.  In step 4, you can see where I have cut around the foam/fabric using pinking shears.

Turn right sides out.  Press.  

Top stitch all round the curve. 

The flap lining is facing out, away from the bag.

Sew the flap to the back of the bag (the side of the bag which doesn’t have the magnetic fastener) along the straight edge with right sides together.

Step 6: Making the strap

  

If 2 shorter lengths are being used, join them as you would join binding.  Overlap the fabrics, right sides together, as shown in the photo.  Sew across diagonally.  Trim the seam and press open. I did this and the join doesn't show at all.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the strap fabric.  

Fold in half lengthways and press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre fold so that it looks like bias binding .  You will end up with a 1”/2.5 cm strap.  Top stitch along both long sides to give a professional finish.

Step 7: Attaching the strap

Sew one end to the right side of the side panel with the raw edge of the strap about 1”/ 2.5cm  above the raw edge of the bag.

Try the strap for size thinking about how you plan to wear it.  I like mine as a cross body bag, but you may prefer a shorter strap and wear it as a shoulder bag.  Adjust the size of the strap now by reducing the length if necessary.

Sew the other end of the strap to the other side of the bag, making sure that the strap is not twisted.

Step 8: Making the internal pocket/divider

Make the internal pocket or divider by attaching the interfacing to the wrong side of pocket (lining) fabric.  Fold it in half so that it is the same shape as the bag but a little shorter.  Top stitch along the fold.

Pin the pocket to the right side of one of the lining bag body pieces and sew around the curved edge. 

If you leave the pocket as it is, it will form a divider or compartment within the bag.  I wanted a pocket, so I attached velcro centrally to the top of the pocket and the lining.

Here the velcro is shown in the finished bag.

 Step 9: Making the bag lining

Attach the lining bag body pieces to the side panel, in the same way that you did for the outer bag in step 3, leaving a 4”/ 10 cm gap for turning through at the end.

Step 10: Assembling the bag

Now you need to join the bag lining and exterior.  Place the lining over the outer bag.  

The outer bag should have its right side facing out.  The lining should be right side facing in.  In other words, they are placed right sides together, matching the side seams. The flap needs to be between the outer bag and lining.  Sew all round the top of the bag. 

Turn through the gap in the lining.

Top stitch all around the top edge, including where the flap joins the bag and lining.

Step 11: Attaching the rivets

 

The end of the strap needs to be secured within the side panel to give it extra strength. This is why we left that extra bit sticking up when we joined it to the bag. It can be done by sewing an ‘X’ or box shape through the outer fabric, strap and lining or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because it makes the bag look more ‘bought’.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers (outer fabric, foam, strap, lining).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through from the lining side of the hole to the outer fabric.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

In this project I learnt:

• I am getting much better at understanding which stabiliser to use for the effects I want to achieve.  I wanted the bag to have a very clear shape which can be achieved with bag foam.  If I had used wadding/fleece the bag would have been less structured, although still lovely.  I used interfacing for the pocket and strap to make them firmer but without the bulk.  Now that I’ve discovered spray on fabric adhesive, I don’t worry about whether I’m using fusible foam / interfacing.  I just spray it on and it becomes fusible. It has saved me time and money because I can just use whatever is in my stash.
• A bag with hardware looks bought rather than homemade, but it still scares me.  I worry that I’ll make a mistake and ruin the bag just as it’s nearly finished.  Magnetic fasteners are easy to apply as long as you make small holes.  I find that turning the ‘legs’ outwards rather than inwards makes them firmer.  Rivets still scare me.  I use them so rarely that I forget what to do with them. It took longer to make the hole than to fit the rivet.  They went in really smoothly and now the handle will be extra strong.  I really wanted to fit a tuck lock to close this bag, but I wasn’t brave enough.
• I’m quite conservative in my choice of fabrics.  I like a pretty outer fabric and a plain lining.  Here I’ve used a patterned lining and a contrast fabric on the outside.  For me, that’s daring!  I want to experiment more in the future by using several fabrics in one bag.  Other people do it and it looks great, but I’m never sure which fabrics to put together.