Bag #38: Painted Tote Pouch

This week’s bag is a pouch to hold all those calico bags we need to carry around to avoid having to pay 5p for a plastic bag.  It is made entirely from heavy calico with no interfacing or lining but has French seams as I hate seeing raw edges. The strap could be attached to the pouch, but I chose to make a detachable strap.  The strap could be any width of your choosing to match your hardware.  I chose to make mine ½”/12 mm wide.

I attended the Crafting at Ally Pally event in London last weekend and was lucky enough to see a demonstration and do a ‘make and take’ at Pink Ink Designs.  I was shown how to use fabric paints like water colours so that the colours merge into each other. You can see them teaching this technique from time to time on Hochanda, a UK TV craft channel. Coincidentally, I also recently found out that rubber stamps can be used for stamping on fabric if using a suitable ink.  I decided to put the two together and make a bag which could have an image stamped on it and then coloured in with fabric paint.  This also taps into the current trend of adult colouring in, but is a little more sophisticated.  I chose a selection of my existing rubber stamps.  I used Deco Art So Soft matt fabric paints and a Tulip pearl pink which I already had.  Pink Ink introduced me to Cosmic Shimmer lustre fabric paints which contain mica and are super sparkly.  I bought the turquoise (actually called 'sea green') at Ally Pally and the silver glitter which I brushed liberally over the matt paints. 

I chose to paint both sides of the pouch, but if you were short of time you could just paint one side.

I love the look of the image on this bag.  For the first 24 hours after making it, I wouldn’t let it out of my sight, I was so proud of it.

The finished size is 9”x 7½” (23 cm x 19 cm).

You need a 9”/23 cm strip of calico for this project.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching and used ¼”/6mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using rubber stamps on fabric
• Painting on fabric
• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following from the calico:

11” x 9” (28 cm x 23 cm) Bag sides (cut 2)

3” x 2“  (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip Tabs and D ring tab (cut 3)

12” x 2” (30 cm x 5 cm) Strap (cut 1)

9” /23 cm zip

½”/12 mm D ring

Swivel clasp (same size as D ring)

Rivet (optional)

Rubber Stamps

Ink Pad suitable for stamping on fabric (I used Versacraft)

Fabric Paint

Step 2: Painting the bag

Wash the calico first as fabric paints adhere better to fabric which has been washed.

Stamp the design onto the calico and heat seal by ironing with a cloth between the iron and fabric to protect the design (I use a man's handkerchief).

Paint using fabric paints.  Follow instructions on paint bottles to make permanent.

Assemble the bag when the paint is dry.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs and inserting the zip

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  Wrap a tab around each end of the zip overlapping the zip by about ¼”/ 6 mm and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Place the top edge of one bag side against one edge of the zip, right sides together as shown in the photo. The zip and tabs will be slightly shorter than the width of the bag.  Make sure the zip is positioned centrally. Sew using a zip foot.

Sew the other bag side to the other edge of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 4: Make and attach the D ring tab

(I made the D ring tab and strap at the same time because they use the same technique although the finishing is slightly different).

Fold the fabric in half lengthways to find the centre and press.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line and press.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half along the original fold, press again and top stitch close to the edge along each long side.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Fold in half over a D ring so that raw edges meet.

Sew to right side of the fabric at one edge as shown in photo.  The tab should be quite long at this stage because the bag will be sewn using French seams which means that they will be double their normal width. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

With the zip open and the 2 bag sides wrong sides together, sew all round.  Start at the zip and sew down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, ending at the zip. You need to keep these seams quite narrow.

Now turn the bag wrong side out and sew the same seams, this time encasing the raw edges.  If necessary trim the edges and D ring tab to make sure that they will be within the seam allowance (you don’t want any raw edges showing).

Turn right side out and press.

Step 6: Making the strap

Make the strap in the same way you made the D ring tab, but make sure the raw edges at the ends are folded inside the strap before sewing it.

The end of the strap needs to be secured to one end of the clasp. This can be done by sewing it or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because they are super sturdy.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers of the strap (see photo to see where it should be positioned).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through all layers.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

Now fill your pouch with some of those pesky shopping bags and you will never forget them again.  I feel another shopping trip coming on!

In this project I learnt:

• It was surprisingly easy to use rubber stamps on fabric.  I used a scrap of calico to practise on first of all.  It was the first time I had used Versacraft ink which gave a lovely bold outline.  I heat set it by ironing it and the colour didn’t run when I added paints, even when I added lots of water.

• It was fun trying out the different paints.  I love the Cosmic Shimmer paint; it was so sparkly that it really lifted the image.  I didn’t have a brown paint for the hedgehogs, so I just mixed all the matt colours until I got something resembling a dirty brown.  I used the watercolour technique for the hedgehogs and grass by painting part of it and then pulling the colour with water onto neighbouring parts of the image for a much paler version of the colour. It took a long time to paint both sides of the bag but it was a lot of fun and I can’t stop admiring the end result.  Definitely worth all the time spent on it.  Now I keep wondering what to paint next. 

• I find rivets easier to fix each time I use them. I like knowing that the strap is really firmly fixed and won’t come undone.  It also gives a professional finish to the bag.

Bag #28: Daisy Bag

This week, I wanted to make a small bag for craft tools but it could just as easily be used as a pencil case (for small pencils!) or make up bag. It could easily be adapted for longer items e.g. knitting needles or paint brushes by changing the length but keeping the other dimensions the same.  Small bags have so many uses.

I have previously tried painting fabric using dots, but this time I used a paintbrush.  It was nothing like painting on a smooth surface but still relatively straightforward.  I chose a simple design from Folk It (their designs always look amazing and are easily achievable with a minimum of effort).  I used Deco Art So Soft fabric paint and practised on a scrap of the fabric before painting on the bag. 

I wanted the ends to be a triangular shape but without the effort of adding a triangular panel.  The shape comes from the inserts cut out of the bottom corners of the pattern. This method creates a less rigid shape which goes well with the denim look fabric I chose. 

Usually, when I design a pattern, I start off with the measurements I want for the finished bag and try to achieve them.  With this bag, I drew the pattern without measuring any of the dimensions and then, when I was happy with it, took the measurements.

The zip tabs give a professional finish to the bag and link the outer and lining fabrics.  The side tab is also made from the lining fabric. This tab can be used to clip tools or a charm to the bag or it could be used to clip the bag to a belt.  I like to include side tabs because they give more options for the ways in which a bag can be used.  I might clip it to my belt at craft fairs so that I have essential tools within my grasp at all times.

I used a fat quarter of the lining fabric and the outer fabric and had lots left.  Both of the fabrics I used were cotton.  I like the fact that this bag looks like denim without the effort of sewing a heavyweight fabric.

The finished size is approximately 7” (17.8cm) long x 3” (7.5 cm) high x 3” (7.5cm) wide.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching.  I used ¼”/ 6mm seams (slightly larger for the lining so that it fitted snugly).

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other. 

Skills used in this project:

• Fabric painting
• Creating shape

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

10¼” x 5⅛” (26 cm x 13 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer, 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing and cut to size using the PDF pattern)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

2” x 2” (5 cm x 5 cm) Side tab (cut 1 lining, 1 medium iron-on interfacing)

8”/20 cm Zip cut to size (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

1” / 25 mm split ring

Step 2: Painting the fabric

The fabric needs to be pre-washed (without using a softener such as Comfort as this prevents the paint from adhering to the fabric).  Fabrics vary, so try the paints you intend to use on a scrap of the outer fabric to practise your technique.  On paper I would have used one brush stroke for each petal, but the paint sank into the fabric and I needed lots of smaller brush strokes.  I used 2 coats of the white paint to make it stand out.  I painted the fabric before making the bag as it was easier to paint onto a flat surface.  Of course, then I had to wait for the paint to dry before making the bag.  Overnight was sufficient drying time.  Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to make the paint permanent.  I always leave 72 hours and then wash the fabric at a low temperature.  The paint is beautifully soft after washing.

Step 3: Making and attaching the zip tabs

 Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tabs.

Fold the zip tabs in half so that the 2”/5 cm ends meet and press.  Turn the raw edges parallel to the fold under by ¼”/6 mm and press. Fold them over each end of the zip, with the zip end up against the fold, and sew across the zip to attach them.  Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Inserting the zip

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer bag body fabric.

Place one outer bag body and one lining fabric, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot.

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 5: Making and attaching the split ring tab

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the fabric in half and press.  Then fold the raw edges at the sides in by ¼”/ 6 mm.  Top stitch down both sides. Press.

Fold the tab in half so that the short ends meet, insert the split ring and sew it to one edge of the bag (it doesn’t matter which side or whether you attach it to the front or the back).    

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Partly open the zip so that you can turn the bag through to the right side after sewing.

Pin the bag so that the right sides of the outer fabric meet and the right sides of the lining meet.  Sew along the side and bottom seams, leaving at gap of about 4” / 10 cm along the bottom seam of the lining for turning and also leaving the corner cut outs. Make the seams around the lining slightly wider so that the lining fits neatly inside the bag.  Press the seams open.

With the right sides still together, flatten the corners so that each side seam meets the bottom seam to form a straight line. Do this for the outer fabric and lining corners.  Sew. 

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine.

 

Fill the bag and start using it straight away.

In this project I learnt:

• Fabric painting, even for someone who can’t paint, is easy if you choose a simple design and practise it first.  I have learnt that painting on fabric is not the same as painting on paper.  Actually, fabric is more forgiving because mistakes don’t show up as much; the paint is quickly disappears into the fabric so minor errors can be painted over.  This daisy looks better on fabric than when I paint it on cards.

• If I wanted a sharp shape, I would definitely use panels at the ends, but this denim lends itself to a more ‘slouchy’ shape. A few months ago, I wouldn’t have known the difference or been able to design both types.  I’m definitely learning so much in this project and loving every minute of it.