Bag #29: Half Moon Bag

When I was a student I had a half moon bag which was my favourite bag.  I loved it.  It was just big enough for my purse and camera.  I didn’t need anything else.  This was before the days of mobile phones.  Long before!  The zip on my current handbag broke this week and I have been thinking about what type of bag would be good for summer without being too ‘beachy’ but still casual.  I decided to go for a denim half moon bag, although it’s bigger than the one I had in my student days because I have more to carry around.

I used the same fabrics that I used in last week’s zip-up bag, but with the addition of a contrast fabric for the flap and strap.  I don’t usually make 2 bags of the same fabric unless they are meant to co-ordinate, but I like these so why not. These are all cottons - denim for the outer fabric, paisley for the lining and birds for the contrast. I used bag foam which gives the bag a defined shape but it’s a lot for a machine to sew through.  However, you could use fleece or wadding which would be easier to sew through and create a softer, slouchier bag.

The finished size is 8” (20 cm) across, 7” (17.5 cm) high and 2” (5 cm) deep.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3.5 for top stitching.  I used ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

For this bag, the measurements are approximate because the size of the plate used to create the half moon shape will affect the length of the side panel.  If in doubt, cut slightly longer and trim to size later on.  Also the length of the strap depends on your personal preference.  I like a long strap to wear across the body but I this may be too long for some people. It’s easy to adjust the length – I’ll tell you how and when to do this.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.  

Skills used in this project:

• Using a range of stabilisers to create shape

• Using hardware

 

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

NB: if you have a directional print, the 9”/23 cm side goes across the bag and the shorter side goes up.

9” x 7” (23 x 18 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 lining, 2 foam/wadding)

19” x 2½” (48 cm x 6.5 cm) Side Panel (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding) – see step 1 before cutting this out

9” x 11” (23 cm x 27.5 cm) Internal pocket/divider (cut 1 lining, 1 medium weight interfacing)

9” x 8” (23 cm x 20 cm) Flap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 lining, 1 foam/wadding)

4” x 53” (10 cm x 134 cm) Strap (cut 1 contrast fabric, 1 medium weight interfacing) - 2 shorter fabrics can be joined - see step 6

1 Magnetic fastener (mine was ¾”/18 mm)

2 rivets (mine were approx 5/16” / 8mm with a short shank) (optional)

1”/2.5 cm length of sew in Velcro (optional)

Step 2: Making the half moon shape

The bag body and flap pieces need to be shaped.  I used a large tea plate to shape the 2 bottom corners to give the bag its half moon shape.  Measure the length of the curved side and adjust the side panel length accordingly as plate sizes vary.  If in doubt, make it slightly longer and cut to size (as I did).

Step 3: Making the outer bag

Attach the foam or wadding to the wrong side of the outer fabric bag body and side panels (by pinning, ironing or gluing depending on the materials used).  I used sew in bag foam with spray on fabric adhesive.

Pin the outer fabric side panel to the curved side of one of the outer fabric bag body pieces, right sides together.  Using lots of pins ensures that the curve is sewn accurately.  I always start by finding the centre of the seam and pin from there in each direction.

Sew the other outer fabric bag body to the opposite edge of the side panel, right sides together. 

Trim the foam close to the stitch line.  I found it was easiest just to cut round the curve with pinking shears.

Top stitch along the edge of both curved seams (back and front), through the bag body and side panel.  This will help the bag to keep its shape. I pinned around the seam to try to keep the line even but it was still a bit wobbly - I'm not very good at sewing curves!

Step 4: Attaching the magnetic fastener

I added the fastener after joining the lining to the
 contrast fabric, but it is easier to do it before.

The thinner side of the magnetic fastener needs to be attached to the lining of the flap. I placed it centrally with the middle of the fastener about 1¼”/3 cm  from the bottom edge of the curve.  I used a small off cut of bag foam  on the wrong side of the lining to give it extra stability.   To attach the fastener, make 2 holes in the lining and foam, push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the lining, through the foam and the washer and open them outwards to secure.

Attach the thicker side of the fastener to the right side of one of the bag body pieces.  I positioned mine about 3”/ 7.5 cm from the bottom of the curve which gives a very loose fit to the flap; 2”/ 5 cm would be a tighter fit.  

Step 5: Making the flap

Attach the foam/wadding to the wrong side of the contrast flap fabric.

Sew the lining flap to the contrast flap, right sides together, along the curved edge. Trim foam close to the stitch line.  In step 4, you can see where I have cut around the foam/fabric using pinking shears.

Turn right sides out.  Press.  

Top stitch all round the curve. 

The flap lining is facing out, away from the bag.

Sew the flap to the back of the bag (the side of the bag which doesn’t have the magnetic fastener) along the straight edge with right sides together.

Step 6: Making the strap

  

If 2 shorter lengths are being used, join them as you would join binding.  Overlap the fabrics, right sides together, as shown in the photo.  Sew across diagonally.  Trim the seam and press open. I did this and the join doesn't show at all.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the strap fabric.  

Fold in half lengthways and press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre fold so that it looks like bias binding .  You will end up with a 1”/2.5 cm strap.  Top stitch along both long sides to give a professional finish.

Step 7: Attaching the strap

Sew one end to the right side of the side panel with the raw edge of the strap about 1”/ 2.5cm  above the raw edge of the bag.

Try the strap for size thinking about how you plan to wear it.  I like mine as a cross body bag, but you may prefer a shorter strap and wear it as a shoulder bag.  Adjust the size of the strap now by reducing the length if necessary.

Sew the other end of the strap to the other side of the bag, making sure that the strap is not twisted.

Step 8: Making the internal pocket/divider

Make the internal pocket or divider by attaching the interfacing to the wrong side of pocket (lining) fabric.  Fold it in half so that it is the same shape as the bag but a little shorter.  Top stitch along the fold.

Pin the pocket to the right side of one of the lining bag body pieces and sew around the curved edge. 

If you leave the pocket as it is, it will form a divider or compartment within the bag.  I wanted a pocket, so I attached velcro centrally to the top of the pocket and the lining.

Here the velcro is shown in the finished bag.

 Step 9: Making the bag lining

Attach the lining bag body pieces to the side panel, in the same way that you did for the outer bag in step 3, leaving a 4”/ 10 cm gap for turning through at the end.

Step 10: Assembling the bag

Now you need to join the bag lining and exterior.  Place the lining over the outer bag.  

The outer bag should have its right side facing out.  The lining should be right side facing in.  In other words, they are placed right sides together, matching the side seams. The flap needs to be between the outer bag and lining.  Sew all round the top of the bag. 

Turn through the gap in the lining.

Top stitch all around the top edge, including where the flap joins the bag and lining.

Step 11: Attaching the rivets

 

The end of the strap needs to be secured within the side panel to give it extra strength. This is why we left that extra bit sticking up when we joined it to the bag. It can be done by sewing an ‘X’ or box shape through the outer fabric, strap and lining or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because it makes the bag look more ‘bought’.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers (outer fabric, foam, strap, lining).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through from the lining side of the hole to the outer fabric.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

In this project I learnt:

• I am getting much better at understanding which stabiliser to use for the effects I want to achieve.  I wanted the bag to have a very clear shape which can be achieved with bag foam.  If I had used wadding/fleece the bag would have been less structured, although still lovely.  I used interfacing for the pocket and strap to make them firmer but without the bulk.  Now that I’ve discovered spray on fabric adhesive, I don’t worry about whether I’m using fusible foam / interfacing.  I just spray it on and it becomes fusible. It has saved me time and money because I can just use whatever is in my stash.
• A bag with hardware looks bought rather than homemade, but it still scares me.  I worry that I’ll make a mistake and ruin the bag just as it’s nearly finished.  Magnetic fasteners are easy to apply as long as you make small holes.  I find that turning the ‘legs’ outwards rather than inwards makes them firmer.  Rivets still scare me.  I use them so rarely that I forget what to do with them. It took longer to make the hole than to fit the rivet.  They went in really smoothly and now the handle will be extra strong.  I really wanted to fit a tuck lock to close this bag, but I wasn’t brave enough.
• I’m quite conservative in my choice of fabrics.  I like a pretty outer fabric and a plain lining.  Here I’ve used a patterned lining and a contrast fabric on the outside.  For me, that’s daring!  I want to experiment more in the future by using several fabrics in one bag.  Other people do it and it looks great, but I’m never sure which fabrics to put together. 

Bag #9: Hands Free Bag

   

I wanted to make a small pouch for essentials which I could hang across my body and forget about.  I made it in this glamorous faux leather to make it more like an evening bag.  This is what I would take out for the evening if dancing or alcohol were involved - no more dancing round my handbag!  I wouldn’t have to worry about my valuables as I would be wearing them. The finished size is 6" across by 7".

This was very simple to make because the bag was made in one piece.  The only tricky part was topstitching along the second side of the zip.  It took a lot of concentration to make sure that I didn’t catch any other part of the lining as I sewed.  I love this bag so much that as soon as I have time, I'm going to make another in an everyday colour for daytime use.

I used ¼” seams throughout and my normal stitch length of 2.5 for seams and 3 for topstitching.

Skills used in this project:

• Working with faux leather
• Keeping it simple
• Using eyelets
• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

From the faux leather, cut out:

6 ½” x 14 ½” Bag body (cut 1)

1 ½” x 2 ½” Zip tabs (cut 2)

2” x 48” strap (cut 1)

From the lining, cut out:

6 ½” x 14 ½” Bag body (cut 1)

From medium weight sew-in interfacing:

6 ½” x 14 ½” Bag body (cut 1)

Trimmings

2 rivets (I used 6 x 5 mm - about ¼" nickel rivets)

2 eyelets (I used a 14mm kit - about ⅝")

5” zip (I used an N5 zip cut to size but it was really a bit bulky for this small bag – N3 would be better)

½” x 15" binding or ribbon (this does not need to be cut on the bias)

Step 2: Inserting the zip

 Make the zip tabs by folding the tab fabric in half (narrow end to narrow end) and turning under the raw edges at the ends by ¼”.  Place a tab at each end of the zip, overlapping it by ½” and top stitch across making sure that both top and bottom of the tab are sewn.  The will make the zip really secure.  Do not pin the faux leather as this will leave visible marks – it is better to use clips to hold the fabric in place while sewing.  I use Clover Wonder Clips but any clip would do, even a hair clip.

  

Clip the interfacing to the wrong side of the faux leather bag body.  Clip one short end of the bag body/interfacing to the zip, right side of zip to right side of faux leather.  Place the lining on the other side of the zip and sew the zip in place along one edge. Top stitch along the right side of the fabric, through all layers to create a crisp edge along the side of the zip.

Sew the other end of the bag body to the zip in the same way, making sure that the fabric is not twisted. Top stitch along the edge of the zip making sure not to sew over any other part of the bag while doing so.

Step 3: Creating the bag

 

With right sides facing inwards, fold the bag so that the top edge of the zip is approximately 1½” from the top.  Make sure that the zip is partly open so that the bag can be turned through.  Sew along both side seams.  Sew binding or ribbon over the side seams to neaten. As these are straight seams rather than curved, it does not need to be bias binding – any strip of co-ordinating fabric or ribbon will do.  I used ribbon-type bias binding as I already had some in my stash that co-ordinated with the lining. Turn bag so that right side is facing out.

Step 4: Making the eyelets

Large eyelets need to be created in both corners at the top of the bag for attaching the strap.  Follow the instructions on the eyelet packaging.  I used a kit which contained a cutting tool to cut holes the right size for the eyelets.  This easily cut through all the layers of the bag, but as there were several layers, I had to do a fair bit of hammering. I then put the eyelet in the tool which came with the kit and hammered it until it was secure.

Step 5: Making the strap

 

Fold the faux leather strap fabric in half lengthways and then fold each side inwards so that it looks like bias binding. Sew along the long open edge so that the raw edges are hidden inside the strap. 

Pass one end of the strap through one of the eyelets, fold the raw edge at the end over and secure it with a rivet about 2” above the eyelet.  If you do not want to use rivets, sew the end of the strap securely in place.

I bought a rivet kit which contained a round anvil, cylindrical setter tool and rivets. Rivets come in various shapes and sizes. . I used double sided rivets but that isn't essential. 

You need to choose a rivet with a shank which is about the same length as the thickness of all the layers of the fabric it will have to go through.  I choose the smallest I could get as this fabric was quite thin despite the number of layers it had to go through.   First of all, you need to decide where you want the rivet to be and make a hole using a fabric punch or awl.  Rivets are in 2 parts.  Poke the part with the long shank through the hole you have just made from the right side of the strap. The end of the shank needs to be long enough to pass all the way through but only just otherwise it won't fit tight. Fit the other part over the shank.  Place the 'good' end on the anvil and, using the setting tool over the other end, hammer the two parts of the rivet together.  It is recommended that you use a special hammer but I used a normal hammer and was happy with the results.

At the other end of the strap, insert a slider so that the strap length can be adjusted.  A slider isn’t essential, but without it, the strap will not be adjustable so you will have to try it on and decide how long you want it to be. 

To attach the slider, make sure the strap isn't twisted and then attach the slider so that the bar across the middle is on the rear of the strap.  Pass the end of the strap through the eyelet, over the top of the bar and down so that the raw edge will be hidden between the two parts of the strap.  

Secure the end with a rivet which will only go through the back and turned under end of the strap (not through the front part) or by sewing. 

In this project I learnt:

• Faux leather is a description that can be applied to a wide variety of fabrics which vary enormously.  When buying online, it can be very hard to know what you will actually be getting. I originally planned to use wadding because the faux leather seemed quite thin, but it was too bulky and I swapped it for interfacing.  The faux leather had a woven backing and was quite thin and flexible, making it easy to sew.  The eyelet cutter easily cut through all the layers at the same time, but faux leathers vary enormously.  A thicker one would have to be cut in stages and wouldn’t really need an interfacing. The faux leather was easy to work with, the only problem being that I couldn’t use pins as these would have left permanent holes.  Instead I used my Clover wonder clips which always do a magnificent job.

• Using large eyelets through several layers of fabric requires practise. The trick with the eyelets was making sure that the eyelet hole was cut cleanly.  I practised on some scraps of fabric and didn’t use enough pressure. I tried again and the second cut wasn’t in exactly the same position.  I ended up with an oval shape and when I inserted the eyelet, part of the hole was visible at the edge.  I made sure that, when I made the bag, I didn’t make this mistake again.

• Rivets come in lots of different shapes and sizes. I tried to use a fabric hole punch to make holes for the rivets but I hadn’t realised that they don’t work on woven fabrics and this had a woven backing.  Instead, I used a fabric awl to pierce a hole through all the layers of the strap and then fitted the rivet and hammered it in place. I didn’t realise that rivets come in many sizes.  The most important thing is to choose rivets with a shank depth that matches the thickness of the fabric.  If they are too small, then they won’t lock into place and if they are too big, they will be loose and wobble around. 

• Keeping it simple and uncomplicated is worth the effort and I think I'm improving at this (and improving is the whole point of this year's challenge).  This was another attempt at making a simple bag.  I thought about putting in several zips and creating pockets on both sides, but it was more of a challenge to keep the clean lines and instructions to minimum.  I'm very happy with the way it turned out.  Now I'd like to make one is a less dramatic colour for everyday use.