Bag #18: Cheat's Patchwork Craft Bag

I needed a craft bag but they were so expensive in the shops.  I saw several with dowelling handles which I really liked.  I have never used wooden handles so this was the perfect project for me.

Be warned, this isn't a beginner's project but would be better suited for an intermediate sewist.  It has taken me over a week to make as each stage took longer than expected and at one point I wondered if I would ever complete it. And there were soooooo many stages!

I really enjoy doing patchwork (English paper piecing) by hand but it is very time consuming.  This is a quick way of getting the look of patchwork without actually doing it.

I bought this patchwork design fabric online.  I usually use quilting cottons but, at the time of purchase, I was only able to get a patchwork design in polyester cotton.  It was really cheap but not particularly good quality and the weave was a bit wobbly, so it was hard to match up the design.

This bag will be great for holding my craft supplies.  I'm using it for knitting yarns, needles and patterns at the moment but it would be great for storing each week's bag project.  I don't have a sewing room so I have bits of half-finished projects scattered around the house.  I cut out in the conservatory, sew in the bedroom, iron in the hall... With this bag I can keep everything in one place and carry it round with me.

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 on the seams and sewing in the zip but increased it to 3 for top stitching and quilting.

This fabric was 44" wide and I used 29", so you would need about a yard or metre of fabric for this project as long as it was wide enough.

Skills used in this project:

• Using wooden handles
• Making bias binding
• Quilting
• Matching the patchwork rows and columns

Step 1: Cutting out

14½" x  40½" Bag body (cut 1) from lining, outer fabric and wadding 

4½" x 10¼" Bag sides (cut 2) from lining, outer fabric and iron-on wadding

14½" x 7½" External pocket (cut 1) from  outer fabric, lining, wadding

26½" x 7½" Internal pocket (cut 1) from medium weight iron-on interfacing

26½" x 15" Internal pocket (cut 1) from lining

2½" x 3" Zip tab (cut 1) from bias binding fabric and 1 iron on interfacing

9" strip of ¾"  velcro

Fabric for bias binding 38 “ x 2” wide (You will also need a bias binding tool)

Fabric for straight cut binding

            44" x 2" for sides of bag

            14½" x 2" for external pocket

20” zip (I used an N5 zip from a continuous roll)

2 lengths of 12mm wooden dowelling 13½ “ long

Step 1: Making the zip tab   

 

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tab fabric.

To shape the zip tab, fold the fabric in half so that the shorter sides meet.  Trim the sides so that the raw edge end measures 1½" across.

With the tab still folded in half, right sides together, sew along the sides.  Turn, right side out, fold the remaining raw edges under, press and sew to one end of the zip. This will be the end that hangs down the side of the bag.

Step 2: Attaching the zip  

Iron the fusible wadding to the wrong side of the outer bag body fabric.  

Pin the right side of the outer fabric to the right side of the zip along one short side, matching the raw edge of the fabric with the edge of the zip. Sewing using a zip foot.  Leave a ½” gap at the tab end (this is where the bias binding will go).

Sandwich the zip in the middle and pin the lining to the wrong side of the zip.  Sew.

Attach the other end of the fabric/lining to the other side of the zip in the same way, then top stitch along the edges.

Step 3: Quilting the bag

Using a walking foot, sew horizontal and vertical lines at regular intervals up and down all layers of the bag body, starting with a central horizontal and vertical line to hold the fabric in place. I quilted along the lines of the 'patchwork' to make it look as though they were sewn together.

For the side panels, iron the fusible wadding to the wrong side of the outer fabric, pin this to the lining and quilt as above.

Step 4: Making the binding/bias binding

Make bias binding for the circle cut out (cut at a 45^○  angle from the selvage) and plain binding (cut straight across or up for the pocket, side panels and edges of the bag.

The binding needs to be ¾" - 1" bias binding (I used 1" bias binding).

To make 1" binding, cut a 2" strip of fabric the desired length.  Pull each strip through a bias binding tool and iron as you pull it out. 

Step 5: Making the external pocket

Iron the wadding to the wrong side of the external pocket outer fabric. Pin, then sew the lining to the outer fabric/wadding, right sides together along one long edge.  Turn right sides out and press.  Quilt through all layers as above.

Attach binding to hide the raw edge which will form the top of the pocket.  It needs to be attached to one of the long edges.

To attach binding, sew it first to the lining side, matching the raw edges.  Sew along the fold in the binding with the right side of the binding against the lining.  Fold the binding over the raw edge and sew in place over the right side of the outer fabric (see images under step 7).

Sew the Velcro on the lining side of the pocket, centrally, just below the binding.

Measure 10½” from the centre of the zip at the top of one side of the bag and attach the other strip of Velcro centrally to the right side of the bag.

Sew the external pocket to outside of bag along the sides and bottom.

Step 6:  Making the internal pocket

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side along the bottom of the internal pocket lining.

Fold the pocket in half lengthways, right sides together and sew along the bottom seam. Turn the pocket right sides out and press.

Form the 3 individual pockets by making pleats in the pocket.  Each pocket will have a 1” pleat on each side (see image above).  Pin and sew the bottom 2" of each pleat in place.

Attach the pocket to the lining side (inside) of the bag through all layers on the opposite side to the outer pocket by sewing along the bottom and sides. Also sew a vertical line between each pleat to attach the pockets to the bag. The bottom of the pocket will be 18” from the top edge of the bag.

Step 7: Creating the handle cut outs

Cut out a 6” diameter circle centrally where the centre of the circle is 4½” from the top edge.  Do this on both sides of the bag. Sew around close to the edge of the circle to hold all the fabric together. 

 

You will need two 19" strips of bias binding - one for each side of the bag. Attach the binding in the same was as you attached the binding for the external pocket.  Do not sew the first ½", but sew the rest of the way round. So that the join is less visible, start at the top of the circle, nearest to the zip (this will be folded inwards and so won't be as visible when the bag is finished).  When you get near to the end, fold the end in to hide the raw edge, overlap the raw edge where you started and sew.

Step 8: Attaching the sides

Pin and sew the side panels in place ¼" from the edge with lining sides together.  The easiest way to do this is to fold the bag in half to find the mid-point.  This will be at the bottom centre of each side panel.  Pin all round the side panel.  It is easiest to sew with the side panel uppermost.  Sew from the bias binding down to the first bottom corner.  Stop ¼" from the end of the side, swivel and sew along the bottom.  Stop ¼" from the end and swivel, then sew up the other side of the panel to the bias binding.

Do this for both side panels.

Step 9: Attaching the binding

Pin the right side of the binding to the lining side of the fabric all the way round one end of the bag.  Make sure the binding overhangs by about ½" at each end.

Fold the ends under before sewing the other side of the binding. 

Do the same for the other side of the bag. 

At the overhanging end of the zip, the binding needs to hug the outer fabric and the raw edge of the lining can be neatly folded under for about ½" and hand sewn.

Step 10: Finishing off the bag

Fold the fabric so that the cut out circle is folded in half. Sew 2" down from this fold along the binding on each side to hold the sides together.   Insert the dowelling and sew across the bag to secure the dowelling. Do this on both the back and front of the bag.

Sew a horizontal line across the bag body from one side panel to the other just above the binding on the side panel to hold the sides of the bag in place.  Do this on both sides.

 

Your bag is now finished and ready for you to enjoy.  Fill it with tempting craft goodies and get crafting.  You deserve it after all these steps!

In this project I learnt:

• The dowelling was an easy introduction to using wooden handles.  I bought a 900mm length at my local DIY store and sawed it down to size, making sure to sand the ends so that there weren't any rough parts to damage the fabric.

• I am getting to grips with the bias binding tool.  I made bias binding once before using a better tool.  For this width I only had a cheap tool and it was hard to get the binding to come out of the other end.  I eventually found that stapling a strip of paper to the end of the binding enabled me to pull it through quickly and easily.  I am getting more organised so that I have fabric for the binding before I start a project.

• I remembered to use the walking foot when I started the quilting and it was very easy and enjoyable to do.  I like the way quilting gives a bag texture.  With this fabric it was the quilting that made the patchwork effect stand out and look real.

• I was pleased with the way I was able to match the columns of squares in the pocket with the pattern on the bag, especially as this was cheap fabric where the pattern wasn't quite straight  on the weave.  However, I got it totally wrong when I attached the zip and the pattern is off by about ⅛".  I thought I had pinned it correctly but I think the zip shifted along a little as I sewed.  Next time, if I have to match at pattern along the zip I shall baste it first so that it stays firm.

• I found this pattern quite demanding to make.  I worked out the measurements at least a week before I made it and spent the week tweaking them.  Then I made a pattern.  As I was really busy at work this week, I ended up spending over a week making the bag, a little at a time.  It feels as though I have been making it for ages, so I'm very pleased that it is finally finished. I think this really stretched me but I feel a sense of satisfaction that it turned out OK.  It's not perfect - it's handmade!

Bag #5: Knitting Bag

 

I decided to make a knitting bag to match last week’s yarn bag.  All the knitting bags in the shops seem to be pretty much the same shape with an outside pocket.  I decided to make the bag from one main piece of outer fabric and add seams to create the shape.  I like the clean lines of this shape which would have been spoilt by an outside pocket. 

This is a compact knitting bag which takes needles up to 12”/30 cm long if placed diagonally in the bag.  I could say that I made it small because it suited my needs, but the reality is that I got my measurements wrong.  I wanted a bag that was about 16” long, designed this pattern, cut out the fabric and started making it.  I couldn’t understand why the bag was so short until I remembered that some of the length (about 5” in total) is used for the ends!  The finished size of this bag was 11"(length) x 6" (width) x 5" (height).  Even so, I am really pleased with my compact knitting bag, but if I made it again and wanted a full size version, I would change all the 17 ½” measurements to 22 ½”.  I have included the full size option in the measurements below to give you the choice.

I decided to use a wadding to make the bag sturdier but it wasn't strictly necessary.  I only did it because the only seams are at the ends and seams are what usually provide the firmness to the structure.  However, as PVC is a very solid fabric, it would probably have been OK without, just not as soft.  It also provided some strength when attaching the handles. If you don't want to use wadding then I would suggest some interfacing (just a small 2" square on the inside to give the handles extra strength and prevent the PVC from tearing.  I had some double sided fusible wadding which I have never used so I used that and sewed it in.  Obviously I didn't fuse it because that would melt the PVC.  It was just the most suitable thing I had and I don't seem to have any other use for it so it is just taking up space.  If you were buying specially for this project, a thin sew-in wadding or sew-in foam would be ideal.  

PVC isn’t an easy fabric to work with but I love the challenge it brings and the end result.  However, it isn’t for beginners and not all sewing machines can cope with it.  My normal stitch length is 2.5, but for PVC I increase it to 3 (3.5 for top stitching) and I use a sewing machine needle for leather, size 16.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC
• Fitting an eyelet
• Creating shape out of a rectangle of fabric

Step 1: Cutting out

From the PVC, cut out:

17 ½” x 22” bag body (cut 1)   (22 ½” x 22” for the full size version)

3” x 22” handles (cut 2)

3” x 3” D ring tabs (cut 2)

3 ½” x 1 ½” zip tabs (cut 2)

From the lining fabric, cut out:

17 ½” x 11¼” (cut 2) bag lining  (22 ½” x 11 ¼” for the full size version)

17 ½” x 5” (cut 1) internal pocket  (22 ½” x 5” for the full size version)

From the wadding, cut out

17 ½” x 22” bag body (cut 1)  (22 ½” x 22” for the full size version)

or 2" squares of heavy interfacing (see above) 

1 eyelet

17 ½” zip  (22 ½” for the full size version)

Optional interfacing for pocket (see below - step 10)

Step 2: Making the handles

Both short ends of the handle fabric need to be folded in by about ¼”.  The PVC is then folded in half lengthways and the raw edges on each side folded under by about ½” (making a 1” wide handle).  Topstitch close to the edge all the way round.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs

Fold zip tabs in half lengthways and place them over each end of the zip.  They will enclose approximately 1 ½” of the zip at each end. This makes the zip very secure when sewn in place.  Fold under the raw edges where they cross the zip by ¼” and top stitch across the fold, making sure that both sides of the tab are sewn.  Trim the sides of the tab so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Making the D ring tabs

Fold the PVC  D ring tabs in half and then fold in the raw edges so that the finished tabs will be just under 1” wide.  Top stitch along the both sides of the length for a professional look.  Slip the D ring onto the tab and fold the tab over, securing the ends by clipping or sewing them so that the D ring can’t fall off. 

Step 5: Making and attaching the internal pocket

The top of the internal pocket needs a double hem to prevent fraying.  To do this, fold the pocket fabric over towards the wrong side (if there is one) by ¼” and then do the same again.  Sew.  Fold under the bottom edge by ¼” and pin to hold the hem in place. There is no need to hem the sides because they will be sewn into the bag seams.  Pin the pocket to the right side (if there is one) of one of the bag lining pieces with the top of the pocket approximately 3" from the zip. The hems should face the lining.  Sew along the sides and bottom. 

Step 6: Attaching the zip

Lay out the wadding with the PVC on top, right side up.  Lay the zip across one of the short sides of the PVC and wadding with the right side of the zip facing the wadding.  Clip or pin and then sew. Place the lining, right side down over the same side of the zip and sew. Top stitch through all layers along this side before attaching the other side as it is very tricky to do this once both sides are attached to the zip.

Do the same on the other side of the zip with the opposite side of the PVC and wadding and the other lining piece, then top stitch along all layers on this side of the zip, close to the edge – this gives a professional appearance.  When topstitching the second side of the zip, I found it easier to sew about halfway along and then stop and sew the rest from the other end.

Step 7: Creating the bag shape

 

With the right side of the PVC facing inwards, squash the PVC/wadding so that the zip is flat along the middle and sew the side seams.   Do not sew the lining yet.  When sewing the side seams, attach the D ring tab in the centre with the D ring facing inwards towards the bag.

 

Flatten the corners as shown in the photo.  Measure 2 ½” from the tip of each corner and mark a sewing line.  Sew.  Cut off the corners.

Sew the bottom of the two lining pieces, right sides together leaving an 8” gap for turning.  Then sew the side seams in the same way as the PVC/wadding, including the corners. Sew the lining to the PVC side seam at the zip tab but for the rest of the lining side seam, keep the lining separate from the PVC.

Turn the bag, right sides out and sew up the gap in the bottom of the lining (but see step 10 - you may want to wait before sewing up this gap).

Step 8: Attaching the handles

Measure approximately 4” down from the zip and about 3” from the corner seam.  Sew the end of one of the handles to the outside of the bag (through all layers – PVC, wadding and lining) by sewing a cross shape over the bottom inch of the handle.  Attach the other end of the handle to the same side of the bag, making sure that the handle is not twisted, and sew.  Do the same for the other side of the bag.

Step 9: Inserting the eyelet

I decided to add one eyelet which I wanted in the centre at one end of the bag. This enables me to thread yarn through so that it isn't rolling around the room!  You will need an eyelet tool which is the right size for the eyelets you have chosen. Starter kits are available which contain a tool and about 40 eyelets. Follow the instructions.  They usually tell you to make a hole with part of the tool and then place the 2 parts of the eyelets either side of the fabric and either hammer or use special pliers to apply pressure so that the two parts fit together.  I used a 5.5mm eyelet kit for this project.

Step 10: Finishing the pocket

I sewed a vertical line at two points along the pocket, through all layers, to create 3 smaller pockets and to give the pocket a bit more stability.  If you don’t want these stitches to show on the outside, you could just do it through the lining and wadding (perhaps with some added firm/medium interfacing for extra strength between the lining and wadding) and then sew up the hole in the bottom of the lining last of all.

In this project I learnt:

• I need to check and double check my measurements!  If I had, my compact little knitting bag would have been a full size version.
• I love the design of this bag but it was really tricky to manipulate the fabric in the sewing machine.  For example, when I topstitched the second side of the zip, I could only go half way along and then had to stop and sew the other half from the other end.
• I thought long and hard about the best order for each of the steps about, but as I was making the bag, I realised that I hadn’t foreseen all of the problems.  As a result, I have rearranged some of the steps to make it easier. 
• I used eyelets in last week’s bag but by this week, I had completely forgotten how to do them.  I definitely need far more practise!  
• Last week’s bag was round and this is much more angular.  I wasn’t sure how the PVC would work with the corners but it looks great.  Although PVC can be hard work, the end result always looks great even if there are mistakes.
• Making the shape just by adding seams was easier than drawing a complicated pattern piece and it gave me the option of flexibility – I could have made the bag slightly flatter if I had made the corner cut outs smaller. I didn’t have to make this decision in advance – I was able to wait and see how it looked.