Bag #5: Knitting Bag

 

I decided to make a knitting bag to match last week’s yarn bag.  All the knitting bags in the shops seem to be pretty much the same shape with an outside pocket.  I decided to make the bag from one main piece of outer fabric and add seams to create the shape.  I like the clean lines of this shape which would have been spoilt by an outside pocket. 

This is a compact knitting bag which takes needles up to 12”/30 cm long if placed diagonally in the bag.  I could say that I made it small because it suited my needs, but the reality is that I got my measurements wrong.  I wanted a bag that was about 16” long, designed this pattern, cut out the fabric and started making it.  I couldn’t understand why the bag was so short until I remembered that some of the length (about 5” in total) is used for the ends!  The finished size of this bag was 11"(length) x 6" (width) x 5" (height).  Even so, I am really pleased with my compact knitting bag, but if I made it again and wanted a full size version, I would change all the 17 ½” measurements to 22 ½”.  I have included the full size option in the measurements below to give you the choice.

I decided to use a wadding to make the bag sturdier but it wasn't strictly necessary.  I only did it because the only seams are at the ends and seams are what usually provide the firmness to the structure.  However, as PVC is a very solid fabric, it would probably have been OK without, just not as soft.  It also provided some strength when attaching the handles. If you don't want to use wadding then I would suggest some interfacing (just a small 2" square on the inside to give the handles extra strength and prevent the PVC from tearing.  I had some double sided fusible wadding which I have never used so I used that and sewed it in.  Obviously I didn't fuse it because that would melt the PVC.  It was just the most suitable thing I had and I don't seem to have any other use for it so it is just taking up space.  If you were buying specially for this project, a thin sew-in wadding or sew-in foam would be ideal.  

PVC isn’t an easy fabric to work with but I love the challenge it brings and the end result.  However, it isn’t for beginners and not all sewing machines can cope with it.  My normal stitch length is 2.5, but for PVC I increase it to 3 (3.5 for top stitching) and I use a sewing machine needle for leather, size 16.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC
• Fitting an eyelet
• Creating shape out of a rectangle of fabric

Step 1: Cutting out

From the PVC, cut out:

17 ½” x 22” bag body (cut 1)   (22 ½” x 22” for the full size version)

3” x 22” handles (cut 2)

3” x 3” D ring tabs (cut 2)

3 ½” x 1 ½” zip tabs (cut 2)

From the lining fabric, cut out:

17 ½” x 11¼” (cut 2) bag lining  (22 ½” x 11 ¼” for the full size version)

17 ½” x 5” (cut 1) internal pocket  (22 ½” x 5” for the full size version)

From the wadding, cut out

17 ½” x 22” bag body (cut 1)  (22 ½” x 22” for the full size version)

or 2" squares of heavy interfacing (see above) 

1 eyelet

17 ½” zip  (22 ½” for the full size version)

Optional interfacing for pocket (see below - step 10)

Step 2: Making the handles

Both short ends of the handle fabric need to be folded in by about ¼”.  The PVC is then folded in half lengthways and the raw edges on each side folded under by about ½” (making a 1” wide handle).  Topstitch close to the edge all the way round.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs

Fold zip tabs in half lengthways and place them over each end of the zip.  They will enclose approximately 1 ½” of the zip at each end. This makes the zip very secure when sewn in place.  Fold under the raw edges where they cross the zip by ¼” and top stitch across the fold, making sure that both sides of the tab are sewn.  Trim the sides of the tab so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Making the D ring tabs

Fold the PVC  D ring tabs in half and then fold in the raw edges so that the finished tabs will be just under 1” wide.  Top stitch along the both sides of the length for a professional look.  Slip the D ring onto the tab and fold the tab over, securing the ends by clipping or sewing them so that the D ring can’t fall off. 

Step 5: Making and attaching the internal pocket

The top of the internal pocket needs a double hem to prevent fraying.  To do this, fold the pocket fabric over towards the wrong side (if there is one) by ¼” and then do the same again.  Sew.  Fold under the bottom edge by ¼” and pin to hold the hem in place. There is no need to hem the sides because they will be sewn into the bag seams.  Pin the pocket to the right side (if there is one) of one of the bag lining pieces with the top of the pocket approximately 3" from the zip. The hems should face the lining.  Sew along the sides and bottom. 

Step 6: Attaching the zip

Lay out the wadding with the PVC on top, right side up.  Lay the zip across one of the short sides of the PVC and wadding with the right side of the zip facing the wadding.  Clip or pin and then sew. Place the lining, right side down over the same side of the zip and sew. Top stitch through all layers along this side before attaching the other side as it is very tricky to do this once both sides are attached to the zip.

Do the same on the other side of the zip with the opposite side of the PVC and wadding and the other lining piece, then top stitch along all layers on this side of the zip, close to the edge – this gives a professional appearance.  When topstitching the second side of the zip, I found it easier to sew about halfway along and then stop and sew the rest from the other end.

Step 7: Creating the bag shape

 

With the right side of the PVC facing inwards, squash the PVC/wadding so that the zip is flat along the middle and sew the side seams.   Do not sew the lining yet.  When sewing the side seams, attach the D ring tab in the centre with the D ring facing inwards towards the bag.

 

Flatten the corners as shown in the photo.  Measure 2 ½” from the tip of each corner and mark a sewing line.  Sew.  Cut off the corners.

Sew the bottom of the two lining pieces, right sides together leaving an 8” gap for turning.  Then sew the side seams in the same way as the PVC/wadding, including the corners. Sew the lining to the PVC side seam at the zip tab but for the rest of the lining side seam, keep the lining separate from the PVC.

Turn the bag, right sides out and sew up the gap in the bottom of the lining (but see step 10 - you may want to wait before sewing up this gap).

Step 8: Attaching the handles

Measure approximately 4” down from the zip and about 3” from the corner seam.  Sew the end of one of the handles to the outside of the bag (through all layers – PVC, wadding and lining) by sewing a cross shape over the bottom inch of the handle.  Attach the other end of the handle to the same side of the bag, making sure that the handle is not twisted, and sew.  Do the same for the other side of the bag.

Step 9: Inserting the eyelet

I decided to add one eyelet which I wanted in the centre at one end of the bag. This enables me to thread yarn through so that it isn't rolling around the room!  You will need an eyelet tool which is the right size for the eyelets you have chosen. Starter kits are available which contain a tool and about 40 eyelets. Follow the instructions.  They usually tell you to make a hole with part of the tool and then place the 2 parts of the eyelets either side of the fabric and either hammer or use special pliers to apply pressure so that the two parts fit together.  I used a 5.5mm eyelet kit for this project.

Step 10: Finishing the pocket

I sewed a vertical line at two points along the pocket, through all layers, to create 3 smaller pockets and to give the pocket a bit more stability.  If you don’t want these stitches to show on the outside, you could just do it through the lining and wadding (perhaps with some added firm/medium interfacing for extra strength between the lining and wadding) and then sew up the hole in the bottom of the lining last of all.

In this project I learnt:

• I need to check and double check my measurements!  If I had, my compact little knitting bag would have been a full size version.
• I love the design of this bag but it was really tricky to manipulate the fabric in the sewing machine.  For example, when I topstitched the second side of the zip, I could only go half way along and then had to stop and sew the other half from the other end.
• I thought long and hard about the best order for each of the steps about, but as I was making the bag, I realised that I hadn’t foreseen all of the problems.  As a result, I have rearranged some of the steps to make it easier. 
• I used eyelets in last week’s bag but by this week, I had completely forgotten how to do them.  I definitely need far more practise!  
• Last week’s bag was round and this is much more angular.  I wasn’t sure how the PVC would work with the corners but it looks great.  Although PVC can be hard work, the end result always looks great even if there are mistakes.
• Making the shape just by adding seams was easier than drawing a complicated pattern piece and it gave me the option of flexibility – I could have made the bag slightly flatter if I had made the corner cut outs smaller. I didn’t have to make this decision in advance – I was able to wait and see how it looked.