Bag #24: Wash Bag

I absolutely love making PVC bags.  Although it can be tricky, it is my absolute favourite fabric.  I will be going away for several crafting weekends this summer and I need a wash bag.  A waterproof or water resistant fabric isn't essential but it makes it easier to keep the bag clean.  I wasn't sure whether to go for the budget option and use a bit of shower curtain for the lining (£3 for 180 cm x 180 cm) or go for luxury option and use PUL (£10 for 100 cm x 145 cm) as I had both.  The PVC I used was a really good quality one so I decided to use the PUL and was very pleased with the result - definitely worth the extra expense.  If anyone has tried using a piece of shower curtain as lining, I'd love to hear you comments about whether it was successful or not.

When using PVC, sewing needs to be accurate.  If you have to undo any stitching, you will be left with the needle holes.  For the same reason, I used clips rather than pins to hold the seams together when stitching.  The PVC looks really creased in the photo because I had just finished it but the creases had gone by the next day.

I chose not to use any interfacing/fleece/wadding for the bag body because the PVC was really robust and didn't need it.

For the zip tabs, I used a contrasting light cotton fabric.  It wasn't waterproof as that would have made the zip ends too bulky.

You will need a slightly more than a fat quarter of both PVC and lining, but if you only have a fat quarter, the pattern could easily be shrunk slightly and then it would fit.  The exact amount depends on whether you have a directional print - a 13" or 32 cm length would be plenty regardless of the direction of the print.  The finished size of the bag is 7" high x 8½" wide x 4" deep at the base (approx 16 cm x 21.5 cm x 10 cm).

The PUL was slightly stretchy and I had read that it would need a ball point needed but as I was sewing it in the same seam as the PVC, that wasn't realistic.  I used a normal machine needle for woven fabric and had no problems at all.  My normal stitch length (2.5) was used for the seams and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  My machine's general purpose foot managed easily and I didn't need a special foot. I used ¼" (6 mm) seams throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using PVC

• Using waterproof lining

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

12½" (31.2 cm) across x 9½" (24.2 cm) for the height (Cut 2 PVC and 2 lining)

2" x 3" (5 cm x 7.5 cm) zip tabs (2 contrast fabric/ 2 iron-on light interfacing)

8½" (21 cm) zip (I used an N5 zip cut from a continuous roll)

Step 2: Making the zip tabs

Attach the interfacing to the wrong sides of the zip tabs.

Fold them in half so that the shorter sides meet, wrong sides together and press.  Fold each short end under by ¼" (6 mm) and press.  Place a tab over each end of the zip so that it is sandwiched between the folded over tab - the end of the zip should touch the fold line.  Sew across the open end of each tab to secure it to the zip.  Trim the sides of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 3: Inserting the zip

Place the lining fabric over the PVC, right sides together so that the top edges match.  Put the zip between the fabrics with the top side of the zip (the side with the slider) facing the PVC.  Sew along the top edge of the fabric using a zip foot to attach the zip.

Do the same for the other piece of lining and PVC.

Top stitch along each zip edge for a professional finish and to keep the lining and pvc firmly away from the edges of the zip so that they won't get caught in the zip.

Step 3: Assembling the bag

Spread out the fabric so that the two PVC bag pieces are placed right sides together and the two lining pieces are right sides together.

Open the zip so that you will be able to turn the bag right side out when it is finished.

Sew along the bottom and sides, leaving the corner cut outs unsewn and a 4" (10 cm) gap in the bottom of the lining for turning through. Sew the lining with fractionally larger seams to stop the lining being too baggy.

Flatten the corners and bring the side and bottom seams together so that the seams meet.  Sew across each corner.

Because I was using different colour thread for the lining and PVC, I found it quicker to sew the PVC sides, bottom and corners and then to do the same for the lining after I had changed the thread.

Carefully turn through so that the bag is the right way out.

Sew up the gap in the lining.

Time to go shopping and buy some lovely shiny new toiletries for your mini break.

In this project I learnt:

• I love using PVC but sometimes it can be hard to sew.  I always use cotton backed PVC but this was far better quality and much easier to sew than my normal PVC.  It shows that you really do get what you pay for.  I had no problem with it sticking or producing erratic stitch lengths as I have sometimes experienced in the past.  When I can afford it, I'm definitely going to buy the best PVC/oilcloth I can afford.

• I have never used waterproof lining before.  I bought some over a year ago and then completely forgot about it.  PUL has a knit effect on one side and a waterproof laminate on the other.  This makes it slightly stretchy.  I worried that it would snag when I used a machine needle for woven fabrics, but was fine.  Apparently you can seal the seams to make them waterproof but I'm not sure how.  The end result is really professional.  I can't wait to try it out and see how it performs in use.

Bag #22: Canvas handbag

I decided to make a small summer handbag now the weather is warming up.  I had a fabric in mind but then I saw this sewing-themed cotton canvas at my local market and fell in love with it. It is sturdy without being too heavy - even my sewing machine liked it.  I added a D ring tab and an internal zip pocket as those are the little extras that make the bag just right for my needs.  The finished bag measures approximately 11"/28cm wide at the top, 5"/12.5cm deep at the base and 8"/20cm high excluding the handles (13"/33cm including the handles). 

I used various different types of interfacing from my stash.  When I'm making a bag, I just get my interfacings out and try them with the fabric to see the effect.  I liked the ultra firm interfacing which created the bag's structure without the bulk you get from foam, fleece or wadding. I used an interfacing that was marginally lighter around the zip because that area has to be a bit more flexible. Around the internal pocket I used a considerably lighter interfacing and this was an iron-on one so that it stayed in place while I made the pocket.

You could just about squeeze this bag out of 3 fat quarters (one for the patterned fabric, one for the plain fabric and one for the lining) or 12"/30cm strips of fabric so it wouldn't be expensive to make, although the handles cost more than the rest of the bag put together!    I used cotton canvas for the exterior and quilting cotton for the lining.

My machine was set at its normal stitch length (2.5) and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using wooden handles

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9" x 11½" (23cm x 29cm) Bag sides (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

4½" x 6½" (11.5cm x 16.5cm) Bag bottom (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

3" x 11½" (7.5cm x 29cm) Zip  panels (cut 2 plain canvas, 2 heavy interfacing)

4" x 5" (10cm x 13cm) Handle tabs (cut 4 plain canvas)

3" x 2" (7.5cm x 5cm)  D ring tab (cut 1 plain canvas)

8" x 5" (20cm x 13cm) Inside pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 light/medium iron on interfacing)

8" x 3" (20cm x 7.5cm) Bag lining light/medium iron-on interfacing to reinforce pocket opening 

12"/30cm  zip  for bag closure

8"(20cm)  zip for internal pocket

¾"/20mm D ring

Step 2: Making the D ring tab

 

Fold the tab fabric in half so that the shorter sides meet.  Press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre so that it looks like bias binding (see photo above), then fold along the centre.  Press.   Top stitch along each long edge.  Slip the tab through the D ring and fold the tab over.  Secure with a few stitches at the raw edges.

Step 3: Assembling the outer bag

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of each patterned bag side. Place these bag sides right sides together and sew the side seams, inserting the D ring tab approximately 2" (5 cm) from the top. (I forgot to add the D ring tab and had to go back later and add it!)

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the patterned bag bottom.  Pin the bag bottom carefully to the bag sides, right sides together.  Sew.

   

Step 4: Making the internal pocket

 

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each pocket piece.  Also attach the smaller piece of interfacing to the wrong side of one of the lining bag sides - position it centrally so that the top edge of the interfacing is approximately 2"/5cm from the top edge of the bag.

Mark a rectangle 3/8" x 6" (1cm x 15cm) on one of the pocket interfacings, starting 1 ½"/4cm from the top of the pocket. Also mark a line along the centre - this will be your cutting line.

 

Place the pocket pieces on the lining, right sides together, so that the top of the pocket lines up with the top edge of the interfacing on the lining. Pin. Sew around the rectangle.   Cut along the central line and into the corners, making sure not to cut the stitches.  Post the pocket through the slit and press it flat.  Pin the zip through all the layers so that the right side is facing out through the bag side lining.  Sew all round the zip. 

Pin the other pocket piece, which will form the back of the pocket, to the pocket piece to which you have already attached the zip, right sides together.  Sew all round making sure to sew only though the pocket and not through the bag side lining. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag lining

Place both side bag linings, right sides together, and sew along each of the side seams. Press open.

Sew the lining bottom to the lining sides.

Step 6: Attaching the zip to the zip panels

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip panels.  There is no lining for the zip panels as the underside is scarcely visible when the bag is assembled.

Sew the zip to one side of the zip panel, right sides together.  

Sew the other zip panel to the other side of the zip.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional finish.

Fold the zip panels so that they are facing each other, right sides together and sew the raw edges at each end together.

Step 7: Making the handle tabs

Make the handle tabs in the same way that you made the D ring tab.  

Once sewn, the handle tabs will measure 5" x 1" (12.5cm x 2.5cm).  Fold them in half and sew a 2"/5cm line of stitches down the centre of the tab starting at the raw edges.  This will hold them firmly together when the bag is assembled.

(I didn't need to insert the wooden handles at this stage because they were easy to slip on and off, but if you were using a differently shaped handle e.g. a circle, you would need to attach it to the tabs before sewing up the ends.)

Step 8: Assembling the bag

Turn the bag so that the right side is facing inwards. Place the zip panels inside the bag with the right sides facing downwards.  Pin the zip panels all the way round the top of the bag so that the raw edges match.  Make sure that the zip is open, otherwise you will not be able to turn the bag through when it is finished.

Position the handle tabs where you want them to go.  Mine had the nearest tab edge about 2¾"/7cm from the side seam.  The handles will need to go inside the bag between the zip panel and the bag side with the raw edges of the tabs sticking out through the top seam. 

Sew all round the top.  I found it easier to sew the bag sides to the zip panel and then use an unpicker to make gaps in the stitching for the handle tabs which I then sewed in place.

Place the bag lining over the outside (wrong side) of the bag.  The right side of the lining will face out.  Pin, then sew all round the top seam, following the existing stitch line where you attached the zip panels.

Turn the bag right side out through the zip.

Sew a ling of top stitching about ¼"/6mm from the top through all layers (outer bag, lining and zip panel).  Sew another line of top stitching about 1"/2.5cm below the first line, through all layers.  This will hold the zip panel tight so that it forms the shape at the top of the bag.

Insert the wooden handles into the tabs and away you go!  I absolutely love this little bag and can't wait to use it.  

In this project I learnt:

• These wooden handles turned out to be really easy to use because I was able to slip them out and put them back in.  It took me a while to work out that this was possible.  I had already struggled to sew all round the top edge and the handles made it really difficult (although not impossible) to manipulate the fabric.  As soon as I realised I could take the handles out, the task became much quicker and easier (and I could have avoided the wobbly top edge where I tried to sew round the wooden handles!).  This wouldn't be possible with many wooden handles, but is something to bear in mind when choosing which handles to buy.  I could make several bags with tabs for these handles and then swap them over when I want to use a different bag - that would save me a fortune in bag handles!

• I was only able to get an N3 zip in a co-ordinating colour but the bag really needs a much sturdier zip.  I could have got what I wanted on the internet but I was too impatient to wait.  It's probably a decision I shall live to regret but I had a great time making this bag so it was worth it.  The internal pocket was a last minute decision.  I only had one co-ordinating zip, so I used that on the outside and used a plain white one inside.  Pink would have looked better, but at least I can easily find the pocket whereas a pink zip would have been almost invisible inside the bag.