Bag #22: Canvas handbag

I decided to make a small summer handbag now the weather is warming up.  I had a fabric in mind but then I saw this sewing-themed cotton canvas at my local market and fell in love with it. It is sturdy without being too heavy - even my sewing machine liked it.  I added a D ring tab and an internal zip pocket as those are the little extras that make the bag just right for my needs.  The finished bag measures approximately 11"/28cm wide at the top, 5"/12.5cm deep at the base and 8"/20cm high excluding the handles (13"/33cm including the handles). 

I used various different types of interfacing from my stash.  When I'm making a bag, I just get my interfacings out and try them with the fabric to see the effect.  I liked the ultra firm interfacing which created the bag's structure without the bulk you get from foam, fleece or wadding. I used an interfacing that was marginally lighter around the zip because that area has to be a bit more flexible. Around the internal pocket I used a considerably lighter interfacing and this was an iron-on one so that it stayed in place while I made the pocket.

You could just about squeeze this bag out of 3 fat quarters (one for the patterned fabric, one for the plain fabric and one for the lining) or 12"/30cm strips of fabric so it wouldn't be expensive to make, although the handles cost more than the rest of the bag put together!    I used cotton canvas for the exterior and quilting cotton for the lining.

My machine was set at its normal stitch length (2.5) and increased it to 3 for the top stitching.  I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using wooden handles

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9" x 11½" (23cm x 29cm) Bag sides (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

4½" x 6½" (11.5cm x 16.5cm) Bag bottom (cut 2 patterned canvas, 2 ultra heavy interfacing,  2 plain canvas, 2 lining)

3" x 11½" (7.5cm x 29cm) Zip  panels (cut 2 plain canvas, 2 heavy interfacing)

4" x 5" (10cm x 13cm) Handle tabs (cut 4 plain canvas)

3" x 2" (7.5cm x 5cm)  D ring tab (cut 1 plain canvas)

8" x 5" (20cm x 13cm) Inside pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 light/medium iron on interfacing)

8" x 3" (20cm x 7.5cm) Bag lining light/medium iron-on interfacing to reinforce pocket opening 

12"/30cm  zip  for bag closure

8"(20cm)  zip for internal pocket

¾"/20mm D ring

Step 2: Making the D ring tab

 

Fold the tab fabric in half so that the shorter sides meet.  Press.  Fold the sides in towards the centre so that it looks like bias binding (see photo above), then fold along the centre.  Press.   Top stitch along each long edge.  Slip the tab through the D ring and fold the tab over.  Secure with a few stitches at the raw edges.

Step 3: Assembling the outer bag

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of each patterned bag side. Place these bag sides right sides together and sew the side seams, inserting the D ring tab approximately 2" (5 cm) from the top. (I forgot to add the D ring tab and had to go back later and add it!)

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the patterned bag bottom.  Pin the bag bottom carefully to the bag sides, right sides together.  Sew.

   

Step 4: Making the internal pocket

 

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of each pocket piece.  Also attach the smaller piece of interfacing to the wrong side of one of the lining bag sides - position it centrally so that the top edge of the interfacing is approximately 2"/5cm from the top edge of the bag.

Mark a rectangle 3/8" x 6" (1cm x 15cm) on one of the pocket interfacings, starting 1 ½"/4cm from the top of the pocket. Also mark a line along the centre - this will be your cutting line.

 

Place the pocket pieces on the lining, right sides together, so that the top of the pocket lines up with the top edge of the interfacing on the lining. Pin. Sew around the rectangle.   Cut along the central line and into the corners, making sure not to cut the stitches.  Post the pocket through the slit and press it flat.  Pin the zip through all the layers so that the right side is facing out through the bag side lining.  Sew all round the zip. 

Pin the other pocket piece, which will form the back of the pocket, to the pocket piece to which you have already attached the zip, right sides together.  Sew all round making sure to sew only though the pocket and not through the bag side lining. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag lining

Place both side bag linings, right sides together, and sew along each of the side seams. Press open.

Sew the lining bottom to the lining sides.

Step 6: Attaching the zip to the zip panels

Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip panels.  There is no lining for the zip panels as the underside is scarcely visible when the bag is assembled.

Sew the zip to one side of the zip panel, right sides together.  

Sew the other zip panel to the other side of the zip.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional finish.

Fold the zip panels so that they are facing each other, right sides together and sew the raw edges at each end together.

Step 7: Making the handle tabs

Make the handle tabs in the same way that you made the D ring tab.  

Once sewn, the handle tabs will measure 5" x 1" (12.5cm x 2.5cm).  Fold them in half and sew a 2"/5cm line of stitches down the centre of the tab starting at the raw edges.  This will hold them firmly together when the bag is assembled.

(I didn't need to insert the wooden handles at this stage because they were easy to slip on and off, but if you were using a differently shaped handle e.g. a circle, you would need to attach it to the tabs before sewing up the ends.)

Step 8: Assembling the bag

Turn the bag so that the right side is facing inwards. Place the zip panels inside the bag with the right sides facing downwards.  Pin the zip panels all the way round the top of the bag so that the raw edges match.  Make sure that the zip is open, otherwise you will not be able to turn the bag through when it is finished.

Position the handle tabs where you want them to go.  Mine had the nearest tab edge about 2¾"/7cm from the side seam.  The handles will need to go inside the bag between the zip panel and the bag side with the raw edges of the tabs sticking out through the top seam. 

Sew all round the top.  I found it easier to sew the bag sides to the zip panel and then use an unpicker to make gaps in the stitching for the handle tabs which I then sewed in place.

Place the bag lining over the outside (wrong side) of the bag.  The right side of the lining will face out.  Pin, then sew all round the top seam, following the existing stitch line where you attached the zip panels.

Turn the bag right side out through the zip.

Sew a ling of top stitching about ¼"/6mm from the top through all layers (outer bag, lining and zip panel).  Sew another line of top stitching about 1"/2.5cm below the first line, through all layers.  This will hold the zip panel tight so that it forms the shape at the top of the bag.

Insert the wooden handles into the tabs and away you go!  I absolutely love this little bag and can't wait to use it.  

In this project I learnt:

• These wooden handles turned out to be really easy to use because I was able to slip them out and put them back in.  It took me a while to work out that this was possible.  I had already struggled to sew all round the top edge and the handles made it really difficult (although not impossible) to manipulate the fabric.  As soon as I realised I could take the handles out, the task became much quicker and easier (and I could have avoided the wobbly top edge where I tried to sew round the wooden handles!).  This wouldn't be possible with many wooden handles, but is something to bear in mind when choosing which handles to buy.  I could make several bags with tabs for these handles and then swap them over when I want to use a different bag - that would save me a fortune in bag handles!

• I was only able to get an N3 zip in a co-ordinating colour but the bag really needs a much sturdier zip.  I could have got what I wanted on the internet but I was too impatient to wait.  It's probably a decision I shall live to regret but I had a great time making this bag so it was worth it.  The internal pocket was a last minute decision.  I only had one co-ordinating zip, so I used that on the outside and used a plain white one inside.  Pink would have looked better, but at least I can easily find the pocket whereas a pink zip would have been almost invisible inside the bag.

Bag #12: Child's Easter Bag

It's Easter at the end of the week and I'm looking forward to some time off work for some serious bag making. There were several suggestions for what I should make with this gorgeous 100% cotton Easter fabric.  I chose to go with this child’s bag for an Easter egg hunt and here it is, just in time for Easter. The finished size is 9” (at the widest point) x 7” (excluding the handles). Although, with longer handles, this would be a great size for a handbag, or make it larger and it would be a good shape for a tote bag. You could add pockets inside and maybe a magnetic fastener.  I used a cotton lining which was very easy to work with.

I lined it with foam so that it holds its shape, but it would work just as well with fleece or wadding. As fleece and wadding are thinner than foam, you would need to cut the handle fleece/wadding the same size as the outer fabric handle pieces, attach it to the wrong side and sew through it, turning through and then follow the rest of the instructions.  To give the handle more shape you could wrap the handle around thick piping cord or rubber tubing when folding it in half lengthways and use a zip foot to sew along the edge.  This would give the handle more shape.  It wasn’t necessary with the foam which is already quite bulky.

I wondered whether to make the handles of a contrasting fabric to make it more interesting but decided to stick to the Easter fabric in the end. Was that the right choice?

I used ¼” seams and my machine’s usual stitch length on the seams but lengthened it from 2.5 to 3 for the top stitching.

This project could be made from a fat quarter of the outer and lining fabric and a 7 ½” strip of stabiliser (either foam, wadding or fleece).

This would be a good bag for a sewist who is new to bag making as the stages are fairly straightforward.

Skills used in this project:

• Making bag handles
• Using bag foam

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

For the bag body, cut 10 ½” x 7 ½” Outer fabric, lining and foam (cut 2 of each).

For the base, cut 6 ½” x 2 ½” outer fabric, lining and foam (cut 1 of each).

For the handles, cut 12” x 2” outer fabric (cut 4) and cut 11 ½” x 1 ¼” foam (cut 2).

Step 2: Making the bag body

Attach the foam body to the wrong side of the outer body fabric by ironing (if using iron-on) or pinning.  Sew outer bag body pieces together along side seams, right sides together.  

Pin and sew body lining pieces together along sides seams, right sides together.

Step 3: Attaching the base

Draw round a curved object to create the rounded corners on the base outer fabric, lining and foam, then cut along these lines.  I used a coin to give an even shape in each corner.

Attach the foam base to the wrong side of the outer fabric base (as above).  Pin right side of base to right side of body, using lots of pins to ease the parts together.  Sew. 

Pin and sew lining base to lining body, right sides together.

 

Step 4: Making the handles

Round the corners of the foam handle as you did for the bag base.

Place the fabric, right sides together with the foam sandwiched between them.  Using a zip foot, sew all round the foam (but do not sew the foam – you are just creating the shape to ensure that they are a tight fit), leaving a gap to turn through.  Pull out the foam through the gap.  Trim the ends with pinking shears.  Pull the fabric through so that the right sides are facing out and push the foam back into the handle casing.  Hand sew the gap.

     

Fold the handles in half lengthways, matching the side seams and pin.  Leaving 2” at each end, top stitch along the edge, just inside the side seams.

Step 5: Attaching the handles

 

The handles will be attached to the right side of the body with the seam facing inwards.  Pin one end of a handle with the end 1 ½” below the top of the body and the centre 3” from one side seam. Do this for all the ends.  Sew.

Step 6: Attaching the lining

Pin the top of the lining to the top of the outer fabric/foam, right sides together, matching the side seams and ensuring that the handles are tucked between the fabric as you do not want to sew over them.  Sew round the top leaving a gap for turning of about 4”.  Pull the fabric through the gap and sew it up by hand. 

Top stitch around the top seam, making sure not to sew over the handles, to create a professional finish.  This also ensures that the lining stays in place.

Wait until Easter, hide Easter eggs around your house or garden, give an Easter bag to each child and send them off to find the eggs while you put your feet up and have a well earned rest.

In this project I learnt:

• I was a big scared of making fabric bag handles and have always avoided them before, but as with most fears, they were completely unfounded.  I took it slowly and used a profusion of pins to ensure that everything stayed where I wanted it and sewed slowly and carefully. I was conscious that the stitches at the ends of the handles would be very visible, so rather than backstitching at the beginning and end, I left long threads  which I pulled through to the wrong side and knotted together. They were then hidden by the lining.

• I’m fairly new to using foam in bag making.  It’s very bulky and sometimes my sewing machine objects to the thickness but I like the fact that it gives bags a really nice shape and enables them to stand up by themselves. It’s more expensive than fleece or wadding, so I wouldn’t use it unless it made a visible difference. I found it easier to use lots of pins to make it do what I wanted and it worked a treat. Being able to use pins in this fabric made it much easier, unlike in the sewing of faux leather when pins can't really be used because they leave long term holes.