Bag #34: Craft Pouch

 

                

This week’s bag is a versatile pouch for craft tools. I made it for my 7"/18 cm knitting needles, but you could make it slightly shorter for crochet hooks, longer for full size knitting needles or any size to suit your pens, pencils, brushes, etc. if you are an artist. It has space for my knitting needles and a pen/pencil, a small pocket (not sure what for yet!) and a zip pocket for scissors, knitters’ sewing needle, row counter, etc.  The only thing there isn’t room for is yarn.

I made this bag in these colours because I wanted to take part in gentleman crafter’s August 2016 colour challenge.  I’m not very good at combining colours and this forced me to use a selection that I wouldn’t normally have put together.

I used 3 fat quarters to make the patchwork version of the bag and just 1 to make the all-in-one-fabric version. 

The finished size is 8” x 3½” (20 cm x 9 cm) and it is about ½” (1.2 cm) deep.

Difficulty level: Intermediate, even without the patchwork, because you will be working with lots of layers/pockets.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching and used ¼”/6 mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Combining colours

• Working with multiple layers on a small project

Step 1: Cutting out

If using directional fabrics, the width is 4”/10 cm and the longer measurement is for the length.

To create the rounded corners at the bottom, draw round a coin.

All pieces can be cut from one fabric or using 3 fabrics (as I did).

Cut out the following:

8” x 4” (20 cm x 10 cm) Pocket (cut 1 fabric A - brown) – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

14” x 4” (35.5 cm x 10 cm) Front (cut 1 fabric B - green) – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

17” x 4” (43 cm x 10 cm) Front Flap (cut 1 fabric C - yellow, 1 medium weight interfacing) - if you are not making the patchwork version, cut another fabric piece for the Back Flap which includes the back – cut round all corners, top and bottom.

7½” x 4” (19 cm x 10 cm) Back (cut 1 fabric A - brown) – cut round bottom corners only.

1”/2.5 cm strips of all 3 fabrics to create a 9½” x 4” (24 cm x 10 cm) Back Flap

6” x 3¼” (15 cm x 8 cm) Lining for zip pocket (cut 2 fabric B - green)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm)  Zip tabs (cut 2 fabric B - green)

6”/15 cm Zip (I cut my green zip down to 5½”/14 cm)

4½” x 4” (11.5 cm x 10 cm) Flap Loop (cut 1 fabric C - yellow)

Step 2: Preparing the pocket and front

Fold the pocket in half, wrong sides together so that the shorter raw edges meet. Press. Top stitch just below the fold to create a firm edge.

Do the same for the front fabric.

Step 3: Making the flap loop

Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, so that the slightly longer edges meet.  Press.  

 

Fold the longer edges in towards the fold so that it looks like bias binding.  Press.  Fold in half along the existing centre fold so that you have a 1” strip.  Press.  Top stitch along both long edges.

Step 4: Assembling the bag front

Decide how you want to divide up the pockets.  I chose to have 4 needle slots and didn’t divide up the small pocket at all. Don’t forget that the outer slots will end up being narrower because of the seam allowance.  I measured 1¼” from each outside edge and drew a vertical line down the front and then drew another line half way between those 2 lines.  They ended up looking fairly equal. I used a Frixion pen and then ironed the fabric after it was sewn to make the pen marks disappear.

Pin the front to the bottom of the inside flap and sew down the vertical lines you have just drawn.

Pin the pocket to the bottom of the inside flap.  If, for example, you want to divide this in half, now is the time to do it.  Sew over the vertical line down the centre of the front. I didn’t have any dividing stitches in my pocket, so I didn’t bother with this.

Pin one side of the flap loop on top of the pocket so that the one raw edge of the loop matches the raw edges at the sides of the other fabric.  Do this on the side where the zip will go.  Leave the other side loose as that doesn’t get sewn until the final stage. 

Sew very close to the edge down the sides of the front, pocket and one side of the loop to hold them together.  These stitches need to be within the seam allowance as you don’t want to see them when the pouch is finished. 

Step 5: Making the patchwork front (optional)

Sew the 1” strips of fabric together using ¼”/6 mm seam allowance.  Press each seam open as you go.  I used 17 strips, the widest being about 5½”/14 cm inches.

Cut the strips at a 45º angle, either by eye or by using a quilter’s ruler.  It doesn’t matter if they aren’t exact.  You want to end up with a 9½” x 4” (24 cm x 10 cm)  piece of patchwork fabric.

Round off the corners at one end of the patchwork.

Sew the other end to the back (the edge with the square corners).  Press.  Attach the interfacing.

Step 6: Making the zip tabs

Fold the zip tabs in half, wrong sides together, so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.

Take the edges furthest from the fold and turn them inwards by about ¼”/6 mm.  Press.

Place a tab over each end of the zip, overlapping by no more than ½”/12 mm. Most of the tab needs to be beyond the zip or it will be too bulky. Top stitch across to secure the tabs to the zip.

Trim the edges of the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 7: Inserting the zip

The zip can go on either side of the front.  I chose to put mine on the right. It is easiest to sew the back to the zip first as it is less bulky and sew the front to the zip afterwards.

As my zip was on the right side of the pouch, that meant sewing it first to the left side of the Back. 

Pin the correct side of the Back fabric to the edge of the zip with the slider facing the fabric.  

Then sew one of the lining pieces to the underside of the same edge of the zip (right side of fabric towards the zip), following the previous stitch line.

Tip: rather than sewing straight along the edge of the zip tabs, I got a better final result if I sewed diagonally towards the middle of tab end.  In the photo, you can see that I have curved the zip so that the end of the tabs will be mostly in the seam.

Follow the same procedure next when sewing the Front and other lining fabric to the zip. Press.

Top stitch along each side of the zip to hold outer and lining pieces in place, prevent them being caught up in the zip and give a professional finish.  

Step 8: Assembling the bag

With right sides together, sew all round the outer edges of the pouch and lining, leaving a gap of about 3”/7.5 cm at the bottom of the lining for turning.  Make sure that the zip is open or you won’t be able to pull the fabric through.  (Sorry, forgot to take photo of this stage).

Sew in the loose end of the flap loop when you get to it.

Clip the rounded corners so that they lay flat.  I just trimmed close to the seam line with pinking shears. 

Turn right side out. 

Sew up the gap in the pocket.  Press.

Top stitch around the patchwork flap to give a neat finish.

                                                                                                       

In this project I learnt:

• Combining colour can be quite effective.  I enjoyed doing the machine patchwork and having it at a 45º angle made it more interesting than straightforward horizontal or vertical strips.  The only problem was which colour thread to use.  When assembling the bag, I ended up alternating between the different colours because I wanted the top stitching to match the fabric. This was a bit of a chore but I’m pleased with the end result.  These aren’t colours I would have thought of combining but they remind me of the garden in late summer/early autumn and work well together.

• I’m used to working with lots of layers but not on something so small.  Usually when I make a bag for this blog, what you see is my one and only attempt at that design.  I had trouble getting my head round this – I couldn’t work out what order to sew it together in and I didn’t want to spend ages doing the patchwork and ruin it, so I used some cheap material to try it out.  My first attempt was a disaster in so many ways.  I used interfacing for each part and it was far too bulky.  I also had to keep unpicking seams because I had sewn them in the wrong order.  However, by the end, I knew what was wrong with my design and how to put it right.  To test it, I made another one – the red hearts.  That went perfectly and I knew I had got the pattern right.  Finally, I made the patchwork version.  I feel a real sense of achievement because it took so long to get this one right... but I got there in the end. I tried the zip on the left side for the heart pouch and on the right side in the patchwork pouch and they both work well. It just shows how versatile this bag is.

Bag #28: Daisy Bag

This week, I wanted to make a small bag for craft tools but it could just as easily be used as a pencil case (for small pencils!) or make up bag. It could easily be adapted for longer items e.g. knitting needles or paint brushes by changing the length but keeping the other dimensions the same.  Small bags have so many uses.

I have previously tried painting fabric using dots, but this time I used a paintbrush.  It was nothing like painting on a smooth surface but still relatively straightforward.  I chose a simple design from Folk It (their designs always look amazing and are easily achievable with a minimum of effort).  I used Deco Art So Soft fabric paint and practised on a scrap of the fabric before painting on the bag. 

I wanted the ends to be a triangular shape but without the effort of adding a triangular panel.  The shape comes from the inserts cut out of the bottom corners of the pattern. This method creates a less rigid shape which goes well with the denim look fabric I chose. 

Usually, when I design a pattern, I start off with the measurements I want for the finished bag and try to achieve them.  With this bag, I drew the pattern without measuring any of the dimensions and then, when I was happy with it, took the measurements.

The zip tabs give a professional finish to the bag and link the outer and lining fabrics.  The side tab is also made from the lining fabric. This tab can be used to clip tools or a charm to the bag or it could be used to clip the bag to a belt.  I like to include side tabs because they give more options for the ways in which a bag can be used.  I might clip it to my belt at craft fairs so that I have essential tools within my grasp at all times.

I used a fat quarter of the lining fabric and the outer fabric and had lots left.  Both of the fabrics I used were cotton.  I like the fact that this bag looks like denim without the effort of sewing a heavyweight fabric.

The finished size is approximately 7” (17.8cm) long x 3” (7.5 cm) high x 3” (7.5cm) wide.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching.  I used ¼”/ 6mm seams (slightly larger for the lining so that it fitted snugly).

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other. 

Skills used in this project:

• Fabric painting
• Creating shape

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

10¼” x 5⅛” (26 cm x 13 cm) Bag body (cut 2 outer, 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing and cut to size using the PDF pattern)

3” x 2” (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

2” x 2” (5 cm x 5 cm) Side tab (cut 1 lining, 1 medium iron-on interfacing)

8”/20 cm Zip cut to size (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

1” / 25 mm split ring

Step 2: Painting the fabric

The fabric needs to be pre-washed (without using a softener such as Comfort as this prevents the paint from adhering to the fabric).  Fabrics vary, so try the paints you intend to use on a scrap of the outer fabric to practise your technique.  On paper I would have used one brush stroke for each petal, but the paint sank into the fabric and I needed lots of smaller brush strokes.  I used 2 coats of the white paint to make it stand out.  I painted the fabric before making the bag as it was easier to paint onto a flat surface.  Of course, then I had to wait for the paint to dry before making the bag.  Overnight was sufficient drying time.  Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to make the paint permanent.  I always leave 72 hours and then wash the fabric at a low temperature.  The paint is beautifully soft after washing.

Step 3: Making and attaching the zip tabs

 Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the zip tabs.

Fold the zip tabs in half so that the 2”/5 cm ends meet and press.  Turn the raw edges parallel to the fold under by ¼”/6 mm and press. Fold them over each end of the zip, with the zip end up against the fold, and sew across the zip to attach them.  Trim the sides so that they are the same width as the zip. 

Step 4: Inserting the zip

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer bag body fabric.

Place one outer bag body and one lining fabric, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot.

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 5: Making and attaching the split ring tab

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the fabric in half and press.  Then fold the raw edges at the sides in by ¼”/ 6 mm.  Top stitch down both sides. Press.

Fold the tab in half so that the short ends meet, insert the split ring and sew it to one edge of the bag (it doesn’t matter which side or whether you attach it to the front or the back).    

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Partly open the zip so that you can turn the bag through to the right side after sewing.

Pin the bag so that the right sides of the outer fabric meet and the right sides of the lining meet.  Sew along the side and bottom seams, leaving at gap of about 4” / 10 cm along the bottom seam of the lining for turning and also leaving the corner cut outs. Make the seams around the lining slightly wider so that the lining fits neatly inside the bag.  Press the seams open.

With the right sides still together, flatten the corners so that each side seam meets the bottom seam to form a straight line. Do this for the outer fabric and lining corners.  Sew. 

Turn the bag through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine.

 

Fill the bag and start using it straight away.

In this project I learnt:

• Fabric painting, even for someone who can’t paint, is easy if you choose a simple design and practise it first.  I have learnt that painting on fabric is not the same as painting on paper.  Actually, fabric is more forgiving because mistakes don’t show up as much; the paint is quickly disappears into the fabric so minor errors can be painted over.  This daisy looks better on fabric than when I paint it on cards.

• If I wanted a sharp shape, I would definitely use panels at the ends, but this denim lends itself to a more ‘slouchy’ shape. A few months ago, I wouldn’t have known the difference or been able to design both types.  I’m definitely learning so much in this project and loving every minute of it.

Bag #26: Mini Flex Frame Bag

This flex frame bag is a quick and easy make. I have made a flex frame bag before but it was some time ago and I couldn’t really remember how, so this proved a good challenge to refresh my memory.  A flex frame is a really handy closure because I always get nervous about inserting anything where I have to make holes in the fabric in case I mess it up and ruin the bag.  That’s not a problem here because the sewing is all done and then the frame is pushed through the channels and secured at the other end.

I like making small bags like this to practise a technique because if I don’t like it or it goes wrong, I haven’t wasted a fortune on fabric. It is economical as well as enjoyable – what’s not to love?

I used three different fabrics; two of them (the outer bag and lining) were 14 cm wide and the third (plain fabric for the frame channel) was 5 cm wide, as well as a medium iron-on interfacing, also 14 cm wide. I used quilting cottons from a fat quarter bundle so that the lining co-ordinated with the outer fabric.

Flex frames are not always easy to find, but are readily available on the internet.  They  

come in various sizes, so it is a good idea to check when sewing that the frame will fit comfortably but snuggle inside the channels.  A slight adjustment of the seam allowance is all that would be needed.

The finished bag measures  3⅜” / 8.5 cm high, 4⅜” / 11 cm wide and 2⅜” / 6 cm deep.

I used my normal stitch length of 2.5 and ¼”/6 mm seams throughout.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so it is advisable to stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using a flex frame

• Using darts to create shape

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following pieces:

2” x 6¾” / 5 cm x 17 cm frame channel (cut 2 in plain fabric, 2 medium iron-on interfacing)

4½” x 5 ⅝” / 11.5 cm x 14 cm bag body (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 lining fabric and 2 medium iron-on interfacing). If using a directional patterned fabric, the longer edges will form the top and bottom of the bag, so the pattern should be cut accordingly.

3¼”/ 8 cm Flex frame

Step 2: Preparation

Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of each outer bag body and each plain frame channel.

Cut the rectangles of fabric to size using the guide in the photo or the PDF pattern.

Step 3: Make the frame channel

Take one of the frame channel pieces and fold it in half, right sides together, so that the short edges meet.  Sew the short edges together and press the seam open.  

Turn the fabric so that the right side is facing out and the seam you have just sewn is in the centre. Press.  

Fold in half so that the raw edges meet (see step 5 photo).  Sew them together close to the raw edges. Press.

Do the same for the other frame channel.

Step 4: Make the darts

Make the darts in one of the lining bag body pieces by matching the long edges of one of the triangle cut outs, right sides together, and sewing these edges together.  This will give the bag its curved shape. Press in towards the centre.

Do the same for each dart in both the lining and outer body fabrics.  

Step 5: Attaching the frame channel

  

Place one frame channel over one outer bag body so that the raw edges of the channel are in the centre of the top raw edge of the bag body. The depth of flex frames varies, so it is a good idea to push the flex frame through the channel at this point to work out how much room it needs and adjust the seam allowance accordingly.  Take out the flex frame when sewing.  Sew along the top seam to join them.  Press.

Place one of the lining pieces over the frame channel and outer body, right sides of bag body facing each other, and sew along the top seam.  This will form a sandwich with the outer fabric at the bottom, frame channel in the middle and lining on top.  Press

Do the same for the other frame channel, outer and lining.

Step 6: Assembling the bag

Flatten out the bag pieces and place them right sides together with the outer body fabrics matched up and the lining pieces.  The frame channels will face inwards.  Sew all round the outer edge, matching up the darts and leaving a gap for turning between the darts at the bottom of the lining.   Use a slightly bigger seam allowance for the lining so that it fits snugly inside the bag. Make sure that you do not sew over the frame channel.

Turn through and sew up the gap in the lining by hand or machine. Press.

Step 7: Inserting the flex frame

The sewing is finished but the flex frame needs to be attached.  Insert one side of the flex frame through the channel on one side of the bag and the other side of the flex frame through the other channel on the other side of the bag. There will be a small extra flap of metal at one end – this should be on the bottom of the frame so that it is less visible. Once the frame is in place, hold the open end edges together and insert the pin, bend the metal tab up to hold the pin in place (I use the side of a pair of scissors to do this, but any strong solid object would do).

I’m not sure what to use this bag for, but it’s a handy size for make-up, sewing bits and could double up as purse too.

In this project I learnt:

• This bag was very quick to make.  I made the pattern during the week and then cut out and made up the bag while watching Wimbledon tennis on the television.  Every time the players sat down, I rushed upstairs to do a bit more sewing or take a photo and it was almost finished by the end of the match.

• Using a flex frame is really straight forward.  The only tricky bit is making sure that the channels are deep enough for the frame to go through – they need to be snug but not baggy.  As these frames have slightly bigger ends, it’s not just the body of the frame which has to fit through but also the ends. When I attached the first one, it wasn’t snug enough, so I increased the seam allowance slightly and it fitted beautifully.

• I have used darts in the distant past when dressmaking but never on a bag.  I don’t know why I haven’t used them before because they are a simple way of creating a more rounded shape.  I shall certainly use them again in future bags.

• I’ve just realised that I haven’t mentioned pressing much in my last few bags.  Obviously, it won’t apply when sewing fabrics like PVC, but when sewing cotton, I get a much better end result if I press after every stage.  I do it automatically and often forget to include it in the instructions, but I really think it results in a more accurate and professional finish.  I must remember to include it in future!