Bag #38: Painted Tote Pouch

This week’s bag is a pouch to hold all those calico bags we need to carry around to avoid having to pay 5p for a plastic bag.  It is made entirely from heavy calico with no interfacing or lining but has French seams as I hate seeing raw edges. The strap could be attached to the pouch, but I chose to make a detachable strap.  The strap could be any width of your choosing to match your hardware.  I chose to make mine ½”/12 mm wide.

I attended the Crafting at Ally Pally event in London last weekend and was lucky enough to see a demonstration and do a ‘make and take’ at Pink Ink Designs.  I was shown how to use fabric paints like water colours so that the colours merge into each other. You can see them teaching this technique from time to time on Hochanda, a UK TV craft channel. Coincidentally, I also recently found out that rubber stamps can be used for stamping on fabric if using a suitable ink.  I decided to put the two together and make a bag which could have an image stamped on it and then coloured in with fabric paint.  This also taps into the current trend of adult colouring in, but is a little more sophisticated.  I chose a selection of my existing rubber stamps.  I used Deco Art So Soft matt fabric paints and a Tulip pearl pink which I already had.  Pink Ink introduced me to Cosmic Shimmer lustre fabric paints which contain mica and are super sparkly.  I bought the turquoise (actually called 'sea green') at Ally Pally and the silver glitter which I brushed liberally over the matt paints. 

I chose to paint both sides of the pouch, but if you were short of time you could just paint one side.

I love the look of the image on this bag.  For the first 24 hours after making it, I wouldn’t let it out of my sight, I was so proud of it.

The finished size is 9”x 7½” (23 cm x 19 cm).

You need a 9”/23 cm strip of calico for this project.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching and used ¼”/6mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using rubber stamps on fabric
• Painting on fabric
• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following from the calico:

11” x 9” (28 cm x 23 cm) Bag sides (cut 2)

3” x 2“  (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip Tabs and D ring tab (cut 3)

12” x 2” (30 cm x 5 cm) Strap (cut 1)

9” /23 cm zip

½”/12 mm D ring

Swivel clasp (same size as D ring)

Rivet (optional)

Rubber Stamps

Ink Pad suitable for stamping on fabric (I used Versacraft)

Fabric Paint

Step 2: Painting the bag

Wash the calico first as fabric paints adhere better to fabric which has been washed.

Stamp the design onto the calico and heat seal by ironing with a cloth between the iron and fabric to protect the design (I use a man's handkerchief).

Paint using fabric paints.  Follow instructions on paint bottles to make permanent.

Assemble the bag when the paint is dry.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs and inserting the zip

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  Wrap a tab around each end of the zip overlapping the zip by about ¼”/ 6 mm and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Place the top edge of one bag side against one edge of the zip, right sides together as shown in the photo. The zip and tabs will be slightly shorter than the width of the bag.  Make sure the zip is positioned centrally. Sew using a zip foot.

Sew the other bag side to the other edge of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 4: Make and attach the D ring tab

(I made the D ring tab and strap at the same time because they use the same technique although the finishing is slightly different).

Fold the fabric in half lengthways to find the centre and press.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line and press.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half along the original fold, press again and top stitch close to the edge along each long side.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Fold in half over a D ring so that raw edges meet.

Sew to right side of the fabric at one edge as shown in photo.  The tab should be quite long at this stage because the bag will be sewn using French seams which means that they will be double their normal width. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

With the zip open and the 2 bag sides wrong sides together, sew all round.  Start at the zip and sew down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, ending at the zip. You need to keep these seams quite narrow.

Now turn the bag wrong side out and sew the same seams, this time encasing the raw edges.  If necessary trim the edges and D ring tab to make sure that they will be within the seam allowance (you don’t want any raw edges showing).

Turn right side out and press.

Step 6: Making the strap

Make the strap in the same way you made the D ring tab, but make sure the raw edges at the ends are folded inside the strap before sewing it.

The end of the strap needs to be secured to one end of the clasp. This can be done by sewing it or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because they are super sturdy.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers of the strap (see photo to see where it should be positioned).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through all layers.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

Now fill your pouch with some of those pesky shopping bags and you will never forget them again.  I feel another shopping trip coming on!

In this project I learnt:

• It was surprisingly easy to use rubber stamps on fabric.  I used a scrap of calico to practise on first of all.  It was the first time I had used Versacraft ink which gave a lovely bold outline.  I heat set it by ironing it and the colour didn’t run when I added paints, even when I added lots of water.

• It was fun trying out the different paints.  I love the Cosmic Shimmer paint; it was so sparkly that it really lifted the image.  I didn’t have a brown paint for the hedgehogs, so I just mixed all the matt colours until I got something resembling a dirty brown.  I used the watercolour technique for the hedgehogs and grass by painting part of it and then pulling the colour with water onto neighbouring parts of the image for a much paler version of the colour. It took a long time to paint both sides of the bag but it was a lot of fun and I can’t stop admiring the end result.  Definitely worth all the time spent on it.  Now I keep wondering what to paint next. 

• I find rivets easier to fix each time I use them. I like knowing that the strap is really firmly fixed and won’t come undone.  It also gives a professional finish to the bag.

Bag #37: Insulated Lunch Bag

 

I have wanted to make a lunch bag for some time, but I wasn’t sure what fabrics to use. Then I was given this insulated fabric and it all came together like clockwork.

When I visited the Festival of Quilts in Birmingham last month, The Warm Company were giving out free samples of their products.  On the day I was there, they gave out Insul Shine insulated lining.  There is no need for a separate lining and insulation – this product provides both. It can be sewn, is fully washable and can be tumble dried, so it’s hygienic too.  This sounds like an advert, but I’m not being paid or getting commission.  I was genuinely impressed with this product and will certainly buy it when my freebie runs out.

If you want to try it, you can find out more about it here http://www.empressmills.co.uk/shop/quilt-waddings/insul-shine/

This lunch bag is so easy to make.  Just sew the insulated lining to the back of your chosen fabric and assemble.  Add a co-ordinating binding and you’re done.  That’s it!

The finished size is 9” high x 6” wide x 5” deep (23 cm x 15 cm x 12.5 cm), but you could easily make it wider, taller or deeper, depending on your own requirements.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3.5 for top stitching.  The seams were ¼”/6mm.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using insulated fabric

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9” x 5” (23 cm x 12.5 cm) Side Panel (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 Insul Shine)

28” x 6” (71 cm x 15 cm)  Bag body (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 Insul Shine), curving the corners at one short end – I drew round a tape measure.  Not suitable for directional fabric.

6”/15 cm Velro strip

79” x 1” (2 m x 2.5 cm) binding/tape (I used herringbone tape throughout but you could use bias binding around the edges and something stronger for the handle)

Step 2: Attaching the outer fabric to the Insul Shine

Match each piece of outer fabric to the same size Insul Shine, wrong sides together. 

The silver side is the right side of the Insul Shine and this will form the lining; the white side is the wrong side, equivalent to wadding and this will go next to the wrong side of the outer fabric..

Sew all round each edge within the seam allowance to hold the Insul Shine and outer fabric together.

Step 3: Attaching the tape to the top of the bag.

Cut a 6”/15 cm piece of tape (I actually cut mine slightly bigger and trimmed it later).  Fold it in half lengthways.  Place it over the short straight end of the Bag body so that equal amounts of tape are on each side of the Bag Body.  Sew a line of stitches along the tape, making sure that both sides of the tape are stitched.

Cut 2 x 5”/12.5 cm pieces of tape and attach one to the top (short) edge of each of the side panels, as above.

Step 4: Assembling the bag

With Insul Shine sides together, clip the Bag Body to one of the side panels around 3 sides, as shown in the photo. Sew within the seam allowance - you don't want these stitches to be visible when you add the binding later.

You will now be able to see how the bag will come together.  Flatten the bag and fold the curved flap of the bag body over the front so that it is a snug fit – you don’t want the heat/cold to escape.  Just above where they meet is where the velcro will go.  Sew one piece of Velcro to the outside of the front of the bag.  Sew the other piece to the Insul Shine side of the flap.

With the bag closed there will be a fold at the top.  This is where the handle will go.  Cut a 7½”/19 cm length of tape.  Sew it to the right side of the outer fabric, one end on each side within the seam allowance. Also sew a line of stitches across the tape 1”/2.5 cm in from each side to give added strength.

Now sew the other side panel to the Bag body within the seam allowance.

Step 5: Adding the binding

Clip the tape/binding in place all around the raw edges.  Start at one of the front seams and, using one long piece of tape, sew from the top of one of the front seams all the way round one of the side panels, round the flap and all round the other side panel, finishing at the top of the other front seam.  Make sure that both sides of the tape are caught in your stitches. 

How easy was that?  That must be one of the quickest and easiest of all the bags I have made.  Now I need to go out for the day and see if it keeps my lunch cool – a perfect excuse for a day out all in the name of research!  

In this project I learnt:

I have never used any type of insulated fabric before, although I bought (but never used) some of the stuff that goes between the outer and lining on oven gloves.  I wanted to make a lunch bag for some time but didn’t know what to use for the lining.  Ideally it needs to be wipe clean. I was worried that it would be difficult to sew.  When I was lucky enough to be given this product, I was thrilled because it eliminates the need for a separate lining.  It was easy to sew, just like any normal wadding.  I love it. It’s not often I rave about a product but this is definitely the one. If you haven’t tried it yet, you absolutely must. It shows that if you have the right materials, you can do anything.

Bag #36: Fold Over Clutch Bag

These fold over bags have been everywhere this year. They’re really versatile because they can be used as a shoulder bag or a clutch bag.  The magnetic clasps and zip ensure that the contents are totally secure, so there’s no need to worry unduly about pickpockets.

I’ve never used this classy faux leather before.  I’ve had it for months but it’s so lovely, I was afraid to use it in case I ruined it.  Now that I have a bit more skill, I was ready for the challenge.  I have used cheap faux leather intended for furnishing projects before but never anything as lovely as this. I love the end result but it wasn’t as easy to work with as I expected. Of course, this bag would also look lovely made from different fabric.  I bought the strap clasps especially for this bag and I’m so glad I did.  They finish it off perfectly and make it look professional.

The finished size is 10” x 7” (25 cm x 18 cm) when folded over.

I used a medium weight iron--on interfacing for the lining and pockets and sew-in wadding under the faux leather to give it extra softness. Inside the bag at the bottom part, below the fold, is a mobile phone/pen pocket and a zip pocket for those extra valuable bits and bobs. The mobile phone pocket holds one phone and one pen, but if you made it wider, you could create space for several pens, if you needed it.  That’s the great thing about making your own bags – you get what you want, not what the general public want.

I used a longer stitch length (3.5) throughout but increased it to 5 for top stitching the strap as it was so thick. I used a leather needle and I tried using a roller foot but it didn’t make any difference so I went back to my general purpose foot.  I used ¼”/6 mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using faux leather

• Using bag hardware

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

11” x 12” (28 cm x 30.5 cm) Bag Sides (cut 2 faux leather, 2 lining, 2 wadding, 2 interfacing) 

9” x 6” (22.5 cm x 15 cm) Internal zip pocket (cut 2 lining, 2 interfacing)

8½” x 6” (21.5 cm x 15 cm) Internal mobile phone pocket (1 interfacing)

8½” x 12” (21.5 cm x 30 cm) Internal mobile phone pocket (cut 1 lining)

2” x 49” (5 cm x 124.5 cm) Strap (cut 1 faux leather)

2” x 3” (5 cm x 7.5 cm) Zip tabs (cut 2 lining, 2 interfacing)

10” External zip (I used an N5 zip cut from a continuous roll)

8” Internal zip (I used an N3 zip cut from a continuous roll)

2 magnetic clasps

2 x ½” (12 mm) D rings

2 Swivel lobster clasps with ½”/12 mm loop

2 Rivets (optional) length 2/8" - 3/8" (6-9 mm)

Scraps of bag foam or extra wadding for reinforcing the magnetic clasps

1½” x 2” (3.7 cm x 5 cm) faux leather, 10 mm lobster clasp, split ring,10 mm tassel cap, suitable glue (optional, for tassel)

Step 2: Making the internal zip pocket

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of both bag lining pieces and both zip pocket pieces.

Decide where you want your zip pocket to go.  I wanted mine near the bottom of the bag for security and to prevent the fold from being lumpy, but you might want yours higher as it is quite hard to get to.

Pin one pocket piece to one of the bag linings, right sides together, with the long side of the pocket parallel to the bottom of the bag (one of the 11” sides).

Draw a ½” x 7” rectangle near to the top of the pocket interfacing.  Sew around this rectangle through all the layers that you have just pinned together.  

 

Cut a slit in this rectangle (as shown in the photo) making sure not to cut the stitches. Push the pocket through this ‘letterbox’, shape in the lining so that it sits flat and press. You will now have a neat opening to attach the zip.

Pin the zip to the pocket so that the right side shows through the aperture in the bag lining.  Sew all round the opening to hold the zip in place.

Pin the remaining pocket piece to this one, right sides together and sew around all pocket sides, keeping the bag lining out of the way as you do not want to sew through this.  

Step 3: Making the internal mobile phone pocket

After attaching the interfacing to the wrong side of one half of the pocket, fold the other half over so that the right sides are together.  Sew around the open edges leaving a gap for turning. Clip the corners, making sure not to cut the stitches – clipping allows for sharper corners. Turn through and press. The opening can either be sewn up now or when attaching the pocket to the lining.

The pockets are created by inserting pleats or folds in the pocket fabric.  Decide how wide you want the different compartments and pin the pleats in place.  I made the mobile phone pocket 3 ½” wide with a ½” pleat either side.  I then made a small pleat at the other end of the bottom of the pocket for the pen slot.

Pin the pocket in place on the right side of the other bag lining piece.  Sew along sides and bottom to attach.  This will also close up the gap where you turned the pocket through.

Sew from the bottom of the pocket about 1/3 of the way up the phone pleats to hold them in place. Sew a line of stitches between the phone pleat and the pen pocket, all the way up, to create a separate slot for a pen. (I sewed the phone pleats before attaching the pocket but I think it is better to do it once the pocket is attached to the lining.)

Step 4: Making the external zip tabs

I chose to make my zip tabs from a contrasting cotton fabric.  They make the corners less bulky and easier to turn through.

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  Wrap a tab around each end of the zip and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Step 5: Attaching the external zip

Place one faux leather bag side (including wadding on the wrong side) and one lining fabric, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the faux leather.  Sew to one edge of the zip using a zip foot.

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric/wadding to sew them to the other edge of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 6: Attaching the magnetic clasps

The thicker part of the magnetic clasps will go on the lower part of the bag and the thinner part on the upper part.  These will all be on the same bag side, attached to the faux leather/wadding.

First decide where you want them to go when the bag is assembled.  I chose to have mine 2½” in from the side edges.  The centre of the thicker ones were 6½” below the centre of the zip and the centre of the lighter ones were 2” below the zip.

I used a small offcut of bag foam on the wrong side of the faux leather/wadding to give it extra stability.   

Make 2 small holes in the faux leather/wadding, push the ‘legs’ through from the right side of the faux leather, through the wadding and foam, add the washer and open them outwards to secure. It is important that the holes are not too big of the clasp will not be secure. 

Do this for all 4 clasp parts.

Step 7: Making the strap and strap tabs

Fold the strap in half lengthways to find the centre.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half and top stitch close to the edge along the open long side of the handle.  

Step 8: Attaching the strap tabs

Cut 2 x 2” sections off the strap – these will be the strap tabs.

With the magnetic clasps done up, you will see where the bag folds.  The strap tabs will be attached on the fold.  

Slip a D ring onto each section, fold them in half and sew them to the faux leather, one on each side of the bag front, facing inwards with the raw edges towards the seam.  Sew inside the seam allowance so that your stitches won’t show when you assemble the bag.

Step 9: Assembling the bag

Spread out the fabric so that the 2 faux leather/wadding pieces are matched up, right sides together and the 2 lining/pocket pieces are also matched up with right sides together. Make sure the zip is open so that you will be able to turn the bag through.  Sew all round leaving a gap in the lining for turning. Turn through and close the gap in the lining by hand or machine stitching.

Step 9: Attaching the strap

The strap needs to be attached to the clasps

Pull one end through a clasp, fold the raw edge under and either sew or attach a rivet..  Do the same for the other end of the strap, checking first that you are happy with the length.  Make sure that the strap is not twisted.  

The strap can now be attached to the bag to make a shoulder bag or detached for a clutch bag.

Step 10: Adding the tassel

Make cuts in the fabric along one of the longer sides, stopping about ¼”/ 6mm from the top, so that it becomes fringed.

Wind the top round itself so that it will just fit inside the tassel cap.  Sew a stitch through the top of the tassel to hold it firmly in place. 

Glue it inside the tassel cap and wait for it to dry.

Attach it to the zip.  I used items from my jewellery making stash (small lobster clasp and ring) but you could just sew it to the zip.

Now you really have to go shopping to get used to your new bag and perhaps buy some treats to go in it (all in the course of research, of course).

In this project I learnt:

• All faux leathers vary.  This had a lovely woven texture on the back and, although I used a leather needle, I think it would have sewn well with an ordinary needle. However, my sewing machine hated stitching the 4 layer strap, yet it copes admirably with the same number of PVC layers.  I tried changing the foot, stitch length, etc but to no avail.  Some of the surface of the fabric was scraped off on the strap and the stitch length was all over the place. The feed dogs just hated it.  I had no problem with the sewing the rest of the bag because I had ‘normal’ fabric against the feed dogs.  I’ve come to the conclusion that my sewing machine just doesn’t appreciate class!

• I used magnetic clasps, D rings, swivel clasps and rivets.  They significantly add to the cost of a bag but they also make it look more professional.  It doesn’t matter how many items I buy, I never seem to have the right size when I need it.  There isn’t much choice in my local haberdashery stores, so it means being very organised and buying online.  I’ve been lucky that most of the hardware I’ve bought online has been great quality and I’ve now found some online shops that I’m happy to keep using.  The biggest problem is colour matching.  The grey zip I bought turned out to be much darker than I expected and I forgot to buy one for the internal pocket, so I had to use a black one from my stash.

• The tassel was an afterthought.  I spent a couple of days looking at the bag, knowing that there was something missing.  I decided on a tassel to give it a bit more visual appeal.  I had bought the end caps months ago, but never used them.  I soon worked out what to do and it only took about 10 minutes.  Probably one of the best spent 10 minutes this year! I love my tassel.