Bag #38: Painted Tote Pouch

This week’s bag is a pouch to hold all those calico bags we need to carry around to avoid having to pay 5p for a plastic bag.  It is made entirely from heavy calico with no interfacing or lining but has French seams as I hate seeing raw edges. The strap could be attached to the pouch, but I chose to make a detachable strap.  The strap could be any width of your choosing to match your hardware.  I chose to make mine ½”/12 mm wide.

I attended the Crafting at Ally Pally event in London last weekend and was lucky enough to see a demonstration and do a ‘make and take’ at Pink Ink Designs.  I was shown how to use fabric paints like water colours so that the colours merge into each other. You can see them teaching this technique from time to time on Hochanda, a UK TV craft channel. Coincidentally, I also recently found out that rubber stamps can be used for stamping on fabric if using a suitable ink.  I decided to put the two together and make a bag which could have an image stamped on it and then coloured in with fabric paint.  This also taps into the current trend of adult colouring in, but is a little more sophisticated.  I chose a selection of my existing rubber stamps.  I used Deco Art So Soft matt fabric paints and a Tulip pearl pink which I already had.  Pink Ink introduced me to Cosmic Shimmer lustre fabric paints which contain mica and are super sparkly.  I bought the turquoise (actually called 'sea green') at Ally Pally and the silver glitter which I brushed liberally over the matt paints. 

I chose to paint both sides of the pouch, but if you were short of time you could just paint one side.

I love the look of the image on this bag.  For the first 24 hours after making it, I wouldn’t let it out of my sight, I was so proud of it.

The finished size is 9”x 7½” (23 cm x 19 cm).

You need a 9”/23 cm strip of calico for this project.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for topstitching and used ¼”/6mm seams.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using rubber stamps on fabric
• Painting on fabric
• Using rivets

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following from the calico:

11” x 9” (28 cm x 23 cm) Bag sides (cut 2)

3” x 2“  (7.5 cm x 5 cm) Zip Tabs and D ring tab (cut 3)

12” x 2” (30 cm x 5 cm) Strap (cut 1)

9” /23 cm zip

½”/12 mm D ring

Swivel clasp (same size as D ring)

Rivet (optional)

Rubber Stamps

Ink Pad suitable for stamping on fabric (I used Versacraft)

Fabric Paint

Step 2: Painting the bag

Wash the calico first as fabric paints adhere better to fabric which has been washed.

Stamp the design onto the calico and heat seal by ironing with a cloth between the iron and fabric to protect the design (I use a man's handkerchief).

Paint using fabric paints.  Follow instructions on paint bottles to make permanent.

Assemble the bag when the paint is dry.

Step 3: Making the zip tabs and inserting the zip

Fold the tabs in half so that the shorter edges meet.  Press.  Fold the shorter edges under by ¼”/ 6 mm and press.  Wrap a tab around each end of the zip overlapping the zip by about ¼”/ 6 mm and sew across the open end of the tab to secure.  Trim the tabs so that they are the same width as the zip.

Place the top edge of one bag side against one edge of the zip, right sides together as shown in the photo. The zip and tabs will be slightly shorter than the width of the bag.  Make sure the zip is positioned centrally. Sew using a zip foot.

Sew the other bag side to the other edge of the zip. 

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip.

Step 4: Make and attach the D ring tab

(I made the D ring tab and strap at the same time because they use the same technique although the finishing is slightly different).

Fold the fabric in half lengthways to find the centre and press.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line and press.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half along the original fold, press again and top stitch close to the edge along each long side.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Fold in half over a D ring so that raw edges meet.

Sew to right side of the fabric at one edge as shown in photo.  The tab should be quite long at this stage because the bag will be sewn using French seams which means that they will be double their normal width. 

Step 5: Assembling the bag

With the zip open and the 2 bag sides wrong sides together, sew all round.  Start at the zip and sew down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, ending at the zip. You need to keep these seams quite narrow.

Now turn the bag wrong side out and sew the same seams, this time encasing the raw edges.  If necessary trim the edges and D ring tab to make sure that they will be within the seam allowance (you don’t want any raw edges showing).

Turn right side out and press.

Step 6: Making the strap

Make the strap in the same way you made the D ring tab, but make sure the raw edges at the ends are folded inside the strap before sewing it.

The end of the strap needs to be secured to one end of the clasp. This can be done by sewing it or by attaching rivets.  I prefer rivets because they are super sturdy.

To attach a rivet, first make a small hole through all the layers of the strap (see photo to see where it should be positioned).  I used a tailor’s awl to do this.  Push the long part of the rivet through all layers.  Place the stud part of the rivet on to it and press to temporarily secure.  Use a hammer to bang the 2 parts firmly together. I put soft cardboard between the hammer and rivet to avoid damaging it.

Now fill your pouch with some of those pesky shopping bags and you will never forget them again.  I feel another shopping trip coming on!

In this project I learnt:

• It was surprisingly easy to use rubber stamps on fabric.  I used a scrap of calico to practise on first of all.  It was the first time I had used Versacraft ink which gave a lovely bold outline.  I heat set it by ironing it and the colour didn’t run when I added paints, even when I added lots of water.

• It was fun trying out the different paints.  I love the Cosmic Shimmer paint; it was so sparkly that it really lifted the image.  I didn’t have a brown paint for the hedgehogs, so I just mixed all the matt colours until I got something resembling a dirty brown.  I used the watercolour technique for the hedgehogs and grass by painting part of it and then pulling the colour with water onto neighbouring parts of the image for a much paler version of the colour. It took a long time to paint both sides of the bag but it was a lot of fun and I can’t stop admiring the end result.  Definitely worth all the time spent on it.  Now I keep wondering what to paint next. 

• I find rivets easier to fix each time I use them. I like knowing that the strap is really firmly fixed and won’t come undone.  It also gives a professional finish to the bag.

Bag #37: Insulated Lunch Bag

 

I have wanted to make a lunch bag for some time, but I wasn’t sure what fabrics to use. Then I was given this insulated fabric and it all came together like clockwork.

When I visited the Festival of Quilts in Birmingham last month, The Warm Company were giving out free samples of their products.  On the day I was there, they gave out Insul Shine insulated lining.  There is no need for a separate lining and insulation – this product provides both. It can be sewn, is fully washable and can be tumble dried, so it’s hygienic too.  This sounds like an advert, but I’m not being paid or getting commission.  I was genuinely impressed with this product and will certainly buy it when my freebie runs out.

If you want to try it, you can find out more about it here http://www.empressmills.co.uk/shop/quilt-waddings/insul-shine/

This lunch bag is so easy to make.  Just sew the insulated lining to the back of your chosen fabric and assemble.  Add a co-ordinating binding and you’re done.  That’s it!

The finished size is 9” high x 6” wide x 5” deep (23 cm x 15 cm x 12.5 cm), but you could easily make it wider, taller or deeper, depending on your own requirements.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3.5 for top stitching.  The seams were ¼”/6mm.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Using insulated fabric

Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

9” x 5” (23 cm x 12.5 cm) Side Panel (cut 2 outer fabric, 2 Insul Shine)

28” x 6” (71 cm x 15 cm)  Bag body (cut 1 outer fabric, 1 Insul Shine), curving the corners at one short end – I drew round a tape measure.  Not suitable for directional fabric.

6”/15 cm Velro strip

79” x 1” (2 m x 2.5 cm) binding/tape (I used herringbone tape throughout but you could use bias binding around the edges and something stronger for the handle)

Step 2: Attaching the outer fabric to the Insul Shine

Match each piece of outer fabric to the same size Insul Shine, wrong sides together. 

The silver side is the right side of the Insul Shine and this will form the lining; the white side is the wrong side, equivalent to wadding and this will go next to the wrong side of the outer fabric..

Sew all round each edge within the seam allowance to hold the Insul Shine and outer fabric together.

Step 3: Attaching the tape to the top of the bag.

Cut a 6”/15 cm piece of tape (I actually cut mine slightly bigger and trimmed it later).  Fold it in half lengthways.  Place it over the short straight end of the Bag body so that equal amounts of tape are on each side of the Bag Body.  Sew a line of stitches along the tape, making sure that both sides of the tape are stitched.

Cut 2 x 5”/12.5 cm pieces of tape and attach one to the top (short) edge of each of the side panels, as above.

Step 4: Assembling the bag

With Insul Shine sides together, clip the Bag Body to one of the side panels around 3 sides, as shown in the photo. Sew within the seam allowance - you don't want these stitches to be visible when you add the binding later.

You will now be able to see how the bag will come together.  Flatten the bag and fold the curved flap of the bag body over the front so that it is a snug fit – you don’t want the heat/cold to escape.  Just above where they meet is where the velcro will go.  Sew one piece of Velcro to the outside of the front of the bag.  Sew the other piece to the Insul Shine side of the flap.

With the bag closed there will be a fold at the top.  This is where the handle will go.  Cut a 7½”/19 cm length of tape.  Sew it to the right side of the outer fabric, one end on each side within the seam allowance. Also sew a line of stitches across the tape 1”/2.5 cm in from each side to give added strength.

Now sew the other side panel to the Bag body within the seam allowance.

Step 5: Adding the binding

Clip the tape/binding in place all around the raw edges.  Start at one of the front seams and, using one long piece of tape, sew from the top of one of the front seams all the way round one of the side panels, round the flap and all round the other side panel, finishing at the top of the other front seam.  Make sure that both sides of the tape are caught in your stitches. 

How easy was that?  That must be one of the quickest and easiest of all the bags I have made.  Now I need to go out for the day and see if it keeps my lunch cool – a perfect excuse for a day out all in the name of research!  

In this project I learnt:

I have never used any type of insulated fabric before, although I bought (but never used) some of the stuff that goes between the outer and lining on oven gloves.  I wanted to make a lunch bag for some time but didn’t know what to use for the lining.  Ideally it needs to be wipe clean. I was worried that it would be difficult to sew.  When I was lucky enough to be given this product, I was thrilled because it eliminates the need for a separate lining.  It was easy to sew, just like any normal wadding.  I love it. It’s not often I rave about a product but this is definitely the one. If you haven’t tried it yet, you absolutely must. It shows that if you have the right materials, you can do anything.