Bag #39: Craft Caddy

I always have lots of projects on the go, so this craft caddy is a must.  I made it just the right size and shape for my needs but it could easily be adapted to be bigger or smaller.  Or it could be taller with more pockets.  That’s the joy of making it yourself – it’s just right for you. As soon as I have time, I'm going to make one half the size for smaller bits and pieces. The pockets would look good made from a contrast fabric. As usual, I used cotton fabric throughout, including a calico lining.

I made the main body with foam because I wanted it to be quite firm and upright, but it could be made with wadding for a floppier, less structured bag.  I used wadding for the pockets so that they would have a softer shape.  I allowed an extra inch (2.5 cm) of fabric for each pocket (two on each side) to make room to put things in it.  If you want pockets that hold more, you could increase that.  You might want one large pocket or several smaller ones for pens, tools, etc. I didn’t add any internal pockets because I had plenty on the outside, but they could easily be added to the lining using the same technique.

I cut straight strips from a plain cotton fabric for the binding.  As the edges are all straight, there is no need for bias binding.  When adding the binding for the pockets, I did it all by machine because the inside of the pockets if barely visible.  However, when sewing the binding around the top I decided to sew it to the outer fabric and fold it over onto the lining and hand sew it in place along the stitch line.  This is how I would normally sew binding on a quilt as it needs to look great on both sides.  This suited me because I enjoy hand sewing and had the time to do it, but it’s not essential.  It’s up to you!

The finished size is 16”/41 cm wide and 7”/18 cm deep at the top, 10”/25 cm high and it has a 10”/25 cm square base.

For the main bag, you will need 10” x 50” of outer fabric, lining, and foam and for the pockets  12” x 28” of outer fabric, lining and wadding.

Skill level – intermediate, but easy for a quilter who would be familiar with quilting and binding.

I used my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 3 for top stitching.  I used ½”/12 mm seams for the outer bag (due to the thickness of the foam) and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.

Skills used in this project:

• Making bag handles

• Free motion embroidery

Step 1: Cutting out

I ended up using a different cord as this
was too floppy.

Cut out the following:

10” x 10” (25 cm x 25 cm) Bag sides and base (Cut 5 outer fabric, 5 bag foam, 5 lining)

12” x 7” (30.5 cm x 18 cm) Pockets (Cut 4 outer fabric, 4 wadding, 4 lining)

2½” x 85” (6 cm x 216 cm) Binding

2” x 44” (5 cm x 112 cm) Herringbone tape cut into two 22”/56 cm lengths

28” (71 cm) length of ½”/12mm Cord or tubing for the handles cut into two 14”/35.5 cm lengths

Step 2: Quilting

I cut my wadding a little bigger and trimmed it to size after quilting.

Assemble the quilt sandwich for the pockets.  Place the lining right side down, put the wadding on top of the lining and then add the outer fabric right side up.  Do this for all 4 pocket bundles. Pin the sandwich together at regular intervals.

Lower the feed dogs and, using the free motion embroidery foot, sew a random design to hold the quilt sandwich together.  Alternatively, sew straight lines up and down using a walking foot.

The side panels will need partial quilting.  Place the foam behind each layer of outer fabric and quilt the top 4” (this is all that will be visible when the pockets are sewn on.  Do not add the lining to the quilt sandwich, this will be added later.

The base will need quilting all over but again it will only be the foam and the outer fabric.

Quilting tends to make the edges uneven, so it is a good idea to trim to straighten them.

Step 3: Binding the top of the pockets

Fold the binding in half lengthways and press. 

 

Keeping it folded in half, pin the raw edges of the binding to the top of the lining side of one of the pocket pieces so that the raw edges of both fabrics meet.  Sew.  Fold the binding over the top edge and down onto the right side of the quilt sandwich so that it covers the stitch line.  Sew just above the folded edge.

Do this for all 4 pocket pieces. 

Step 4: Sewing the pockets to the side panels

Take one pocket piece and one side panel.  Place the side panel right side up and lay the pocket on top, also right side up.  The bottom of the pocket needs to match the bottom of the side panel.  Sew close to the edge down each side to hold them together.  This line of stitching should be within the seam allowance so that it is not visible when the bag is assembled.

Find the centre of the side panel and the pocket and sew a vertical line of stitching to create 2 pockets on each side.  Alternatively, sew as many vertical lines as you want to create appropriate size pockets for your needs.

Sew along the bottom edge, close to the edge, gently gathering the pocket.

Do this for all 4 pocket pieces.

Step 5: Assembling the outer bag

Pin the 4 side panels together at the side edges, right sides together and sew.

Pin the base to the side panels, right sides together and sew.

Turn the bag right side out.

Step 6: Making the handles

Fold the herringbone tape in half lengthways and sew the open side together as close to the edge as possible, starting and stopping approx 2½”/6 cm from each end.

This photo shows the cord I originally used.  I wanted a firmer handle
so I changed it after the bag was finished.

I was much happier with this style of cord.
It's the same diameter but firmer.

Thread the cord or tubing through the tape to create the handle shape and trim so that it is completely enclosed by the tape.

Step 7: Attaching the handles

Turn the raw edge under and pin the handles to opposite sides of the bag.  I placed mine approximately 1”/2.5 cm from the side seam and the end of the handle was about 2½"/6 cm from the top edge.

Sew a box or ‘X’ on the handle to attach it to the bag. 

Do this for each end of the handles, making sure that they are not twisted.

Step 8: Making the lining

With right sides together, sew the side seams of all 4 lining pieces and then, still with right sides together, sew them to the base.

Step 9: Assembling the bag

Place the lining inside the outer bag so that the wrong sides of the fabric are together.

Sew them together around the top edge, making sure that the handles are kept out of the way.

Sew binding all around the top edge, trimming back the edges where necessary so that the binding can be folded over the raw edge and sewn to hide the other stitch lines.

I’m really pleased with this bag.  The fabric is so appropriate. It’s just what I need to keep my forthcoming projects organised. Now I have no excuse for untidiness!

In this project I learnt:

• I have wanted to make ‘stuffed’ bag handles for ages but I was waiting for the right bag.  I originally used a soft plaited rope which made the handle really floppy.  After finishing the bag, I decided I didn’t like the look and changed the ‘stuffing’ for a firmer braided cotton cord.  I was much happier with the effect as the handles were able to stand up by themselves. Next time, I might try plastic tubing and sew how that compares.

• I have done free motion embroidery before but I’m very out of practice.  I was aiming for random swirls but it took a while to find my rhythm.  The first pocket wasn’t very good – varied stitch lengths, jerky movements and angular rather than curving shapes.  After a short while it began to get easier.  I increased the speed and moved the fabric more slowly which resulted in more regular stitches. I used a thread which matched the fabric so that quilting isn’t that visible – it’s more of an impression of quilting so I doubt if anyone would notice the flaws.  Overall I’m quite happy with it despite its imperfections!