About this blog

I make bags and post tutorials on how to make them. I'll tell you what went well and warn you about any disasters.

Sunday, 27 November 2016

Bag #47: Sequin Zip Up Evening Bag


As I was short of time this week, I decided to use last week’s sequin fabric again to make a zip bag.  It is very quick to make because it’s just like making a pencil case, but I raised the fabric around the zip to conceal it.

The sequins were attached to a see-through net fabric, so I used a cheap cotton poplin backing fabric between the sequins and the wadding.  If you are using a more solid sequin fabric, this won’t be necessary.

Be prepared for a mess – you will be picking up bits of sequins for weeks to come.  Luckily, this bag only has 2 sequin pieces. I have heard that sequins often break and that you should wear eye protection and use a leather needle.  I did both of these and sewed much more slowly than normal and my needle didn’t break at all.

I included one internal pocket which was quite large and used a contrasting fabric.  It doesn’t do up and isn’t quite big enough for a phone.  I intend to slip my credit cards in there and a mirror.  You could re-size the pocket to suit your needs and add a closure if you wanted more security.  For example, you could add a pleat at each side for something bulking or make it smaller or add a magnetic clasp.  I think if I were making it again, I would make the pocket a bit smaller.  However, I’ve left the measurements the same and you can make your own choice.  It’s added once the bag is ready for assembly, so you’ll be able to judge what it will look like.

This bag is slightly too large for fat quarters (unless they are generously cut – I think it depends whether they are imperial or metric?? When I buy them, they often come up small than the measurements on the packaging), but if you made it fractionally smaller, you would need a fat quarter of each fabric.  If you stick with my measurements, you would need a 10”/25.5 cm strip of each fabric.

The finished size is 9” x 7”/23 cm x 18 cm.

Skill level: Intermediate because concealing a zip without using a separate piece of fabric for the zip area requires some sewing experience.

I used a leather needle (it’s strong and less likely to break if it hits a sequin) and my normal stitch length (2.5) throughout but increased it to 4 for top stitching over the sequins.  I used ¼”/6mm seams for the outer bag and slighter wider seams for the lining.

I have included metric and imperial measurements but they are not exactly interchangeable, so you should stick to either one or the other.


Skills used in this project:
  • Using sequin fabric
  • Creating a concealed zip by manipulating the side panel


Step 1: Cutting out

Cut out the following:

10” x 9½”/25.5 cm x 24 cm Outer Bag sides (cut 2 sequin fabric, 2 backing fabric, 2 wadding)

10” x 7½/25.5.cm x 19 cm Inner Bag sides (cut 2 lining, 2 medium weight interfacing)

10” x 6”/25.5.cm x 15 cm Internal Pocket (cut 1 lining) but note my comments above

5” x 6”/12.5 cm x 15 cm Internal Pocket (cut 1 interfacing)

9”/23 cm zip (I used an N5 zip from a continuous roll)

2” x 2” handle tabs

2 x ½”/12 mm D or O ring for the handle tabs (optional)


45”/114 cm Chain (but measure and adjust for your height/preference) 


Step 2: Attaching the zip

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the bag lining.

Join the wadding, backing and sequin fabrics to make the outer bag body (I used iron-on wadding which I attached to the wrong side of the black backing fabric and then placed the sequin fabric over the top and sewed all round the edges).

If using a zip from a continuous roll, sew a couple of stitches across each end of the zip to ensure the slider doesn’t come off during the sewing process.



Place one outer bag body and one lining, right sides together.  Slip the zip between them so that the slider faces the outer fabric.  Sew to one side of the zip using a zip foot.

Do the same for the other lining piece and the outer fabric when sewing them to the other side of the zip. 

My zip was a bit too short so I have amended the instructions -
yours will be a bit longer but won't be as wide as the bag sides.

Top stitch along each side of the zip for a professional appearance and to prevent the fabric getting caught in the zip. Do not sew as close to the edge of the fabric as you normally would or the sequins will not lay flat.


Step 3: Shaping the top



Measure 1”/2.5 cm from the fabric edge where it joins the zip.  This will form the top of the bag as the zip is concealed. Fold the outer (sequin) fabric along this line on both sides of the bag with the sequins facing out and top stitch along (as shown in the photo).  Keep the lining out of the way - that isn't involved at all.
Follow the line of the pin to sew a diagonal line
from the zip (pin head) to the top edge (pin tip).

On the wrong side of the fabric, sew a diagonal line from the zip to the top edge of the bag. 

Overlap the zip by about ½”/12 mm.  This will create shape within the zip area and hold the ends of the zip firmly in place.


Step 4: Making the internal pocket

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket fabric at one end (it is half the size of the pocket). 



Fold the fabric over, right sides together and sew around the open sides, leaving a gap for turning.

Turn through and press.

Place the pocket on the right side of one of the bag lining pieces just below the zip with the turning edge at the bottom.  Sew around the sides and bottom, closing up the turning hole as you sew over it.


Step 5: Making the handle tabs

(I made my tabs longer than needed – 3” x 2”/ 7.5 cm x 5 cm – but I ended up cutting them shorter, so I have amended cutting instructions to make them  2” x 2”/ 5 cm x 5 cm).

Fold the handle tabs in half to find the centre.  Fold each side in so that the edge is against the fold line.  It will now look like bias binding.  Fold in half and top stitch close to the edge along both long sides.  This will hold it together and make it look professional.

Fold in half so that the raw edges meet. If you plan to add a D ring or any other hardware to hold your bag handle, attach it now.
 


Sew the tabs onto the right side of one of the sequin bag sides, near the top with the raw edges facing out.




Step 6: Assembling the bag

Make sure the zip is open.


With the outer bag sides together and the lining pieces together (right sides together), sew all round leaving a gap in the bottom of the lining for turning.

Turn through and sew up the turning gap.

Attach the chain to handle tabs.  You can buy bag chains with swivel hooks attached which you can just clip onto the tabs. (I have just ordered a bag chain from ebay, but until it arrives I'm using a chain from the local hardware store secured with a couple of jewellery split rings).

 


Well done!  Your glamorous sequin bag is ready for the Christmas party season. There just room in there for a small sprig of mistletoe – you don’t want to miss an opportunity, do you?


In this project I learnt:



  • This sequin fabric was easy to use due to the small sequins (as I found when I made the sequin clutch last week).  Without the thickness of the bag foam, it was even easier to sew.  This time I sewed the sequin fabric to the wadding as it was trying to make a getaway. That made assembling the bag much easier as I didn’t have to keep checking that I had sewn through all the layers.  It took a bit longer but saved time in the process.
  • Rather than use separate strips of fabric around the zip, I decided to make the bag sides slightly longer and add a fold. I didn’t want to cut the sequin fabric any more than necessary because it makes such a mess.  It worked on this fabric because it was quite pliable, but I doubt if it would work with more rigid fabric or if using bag foam. 
  • If I had gold D rings, I would have attached them to the tabs.  It doesn't matter because a swivel or lobster clasp will hold on to the tabs just fine.  As I mentioned above, I used a length of chain from a DIY store but I will replace that when the chain handle I have ordered arrives.
  • My zip was a bit short so I have increased the size of the zip and decreased the length of the handle tabs as they were too long. The pocket was probably a bit of an odd size – too small for a phone, too big for just credit cards.  I haven’t changed its measurements, but as its added right near the end, it can easily be altered if its not a good size for you.   



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